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Currently considering which sewage treatment plant to install and am considering a Vortex Eco. The manual says: DON’T allow the condensate from heating systems to enter the foul drains. This has a very low pH and can destroy a sewage treatment plant or septic tank. The MVHR unit I have, a Vent-Axia Kentic Plus, has a condensate drain that the install manual states: The unit’s condensate drain must be connected to the building’s wastewater drainage system. Questions: How much condensate is generated and is it really incompatible with a sewage treatment plant? Any issues with running the condensate direct to the rain-water drainage system instead?

For the external vents, @bpc ventilation supplied two metal cowls. Each metal cowl includes a small triangular part: What's it for and where does it go please?

Do you chat with your reseller about wind loading, my reseller's can't tell me if wind loading 3 is acceptable for my very open and exposed (and windy at times).

Did you decide to up spec or did Hormann recommend the up spec? How did you decide on Class-5 rather than Class-4?

Brilliant I'm beginning to understand now. Yes easy to get pipe from garage to house with room for large tank. got a link to an accumulator I can see specs on please?

Thanks. Any idea, which has the more thermally efficient overhead sectional door?

I hope so! The zero-flow pressure is good, but it quickly tails off when opening a tap, as per this video https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55058337/2016-11-10 08.06.52.mp4 Still viable to avoid the cold water tank option?

Went back 5 hours later and pressure had fallen to 6 bar - odd given there is a one way check valve in the system and no obvious leak. Does 6-7 bar mean there is enough pressure not to worry about cold water tanks in loft etc?

Novoferm and Garador - are they the same firm? Seem to be offering the same product. Currently considering the iso45mm, steel, insulated, sectional up and over, RAL 1015, wood grain.

Sorted through a few boxes on the farm and got it connected - easy peazy this plumbing lark! 7 bar static - will see if increases over night.

Got the meter and check valve. Can not work out best way to go from 32mm plastic pipe to 15mm check valve. Any tips @Nickfromwales please?

Got it sorted building keeping them there at his cost until structural work on garage done. Then will be removed. Interestingly the H&S consultant I had out the other day to review my CDM said the most of the fencing could be removed just leaving a little bit at the site entrance to put h&s signs on! I also checked with insurers and now house is water tight and lockable they are also OK with fence going. So all OK. Thanks Buildhub for helpful suggestions while the issue for sorted.

Trying to work out which of the many signs I should be displaying. As well as the H&S at work sign, First aid point, Fire procedures, Fire assembly point, site rules are there any others? Any suggestions where to purchase from to?

I asked my architect about a similar idea earlier and he felt that would be like having two leaky doors in sequence rather than one well sealed door. So I'd still be heating the attic space and heat would still be escaping from the attic roof. The downside of the cold attic is that I might end up having to put a hole in the first floor ceiling to keep the water tank warm:

Will contact @PeterStarck, thanks

Insulated needed in the first floor ceiling void - below the attic 22mm chipboard floor (longer term intention to convert attic space but not at this stage). Xtratherm only do 100mm boards, so yes two lots of 100mm boarding needed. So PIR foam boards beats spray foam professionally installed on price and U value?

Had to admit to expecting to use a professional company but very impressed with your perseverance!

To achieve circa 0.1W/m2K for my attic space the architect spec'd 500mm of Rockwool insulation. Having upgraded to attic trusses instead of roof trusses, the proposal was to have 200mm of Xtratherm and a 25mm Xtratherm insulated plasterboard. However this is quite expensive. Question: is spray foam infilled between first floor ceiling joists likely to be even more expensive? (The specs suggest the spray foam would not need the insulated plasterboad)

Er, do you know the supplier/designer?! Who empties/maintains it?

I'm still considering this: http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/17564-vermifiltration-sewage-treatment-by-worms-does-it-work/ mainly as I can't find anything better. Where better means: * non electric * no noisy wind fans on soil stack vents * minimal maintenance I don't suppose since I did that post Nov 2015 anyone else has been brave (stupid?) enough to give vermifiltration ago?

I also could not achieve a meaningful saving by employing others to do it. Hence I'm putting the pot the cash I would have spent getting a mains connection towards going off-grid

That Building Regs diagram, (from Doc J page 20) shows exactly what I want to do. It then refers to Table 1 in Section 2 indicating the air feed must meet: 550mm2 per KW if house air permeability <= 5m3/hm2@50pa (my designed permeability is 5.0) so for a 5kW stove 5*550m2 = 2750m2 which is significantly less than one telescopic air vent (circa 6000m2) So it seems to me it should be acceptable. A big hole in a wall that has nothing between it and the North sea winds is something I really want to avoid!

Cough, cough cough!

I was aiming for 3m3/hm2@50pa but the design value is 5m3/hm2@50pa and I'm not actually sure that will have been achieved.

In the end we selected the ACR Oakdale - largely because OH wanted a non-black stove and it is a room sealed stove with an optional direct air kit. I have a beam and block sub-floor with numerous external vents. Rather than sticking a huge hole in my NE facing wall I want to take the air feed from the sub floor void. My fitter, a HETAS engineer, instead says the vent should be through the house wall. Before I agree, can anyone indicate if taking the air from a well vented sub floor void is a daft idea - I get the feeling my fitter simply had not come across this idea so on the fly said no.