Ferdinand

Ultimately they can be removed by applying to the Court, but for most people that would also be via a solicitor.

That is based on a real live Potting Shed, isn't it? Larger windows so you get the extra light. Planning for growing cabbages in retirement ! F

That's a very good question - I was being a bit summary. If the sand base is being put straight onto the ground - ie without a subbase - then I would lay a weed membrane under the sand in order to help suppress any perennial weed seeds that might already be there, and keep the sand cleaner. My back patio is slabs on sand on the ground, and has a membrane under the sand. I have some growth in the sand over the membrane, but it not a big problem. The main potential problem I have is ants living in the sand above the membrane. But my slabs are 900x600x50mm 65kg pressed council slabs and they have not moved in 7 years, and I hope I never have to move any again. If a subbase is laid that may suppress weeds, then not using a membrane would be possible, or as a belt and braces I might use one to keep the materials more separate. If the tiles are as close as these are and sand is being used then the sand should be relatively straightforward to keep clear of weeds. If I was in Arizona I might put it on top of the sand to prevent an infestation of cactuses ?. Ferdinand

Otherwise known as posh glue ?. Also looking forward to seeing how it goes. Personally I would do a heavy duty weed fabric, but I tend to do belt and braces.

There are a couple of Land Registry Practice Guides about, which would give you the chapter and verse. These are the guidance for the Pros. https://www.gov.uk/topic/land-registration/practice-guides Solicitor is the correct first route imo. Ferdinand

I would guess the time factor. Sounds the sort of thing that takes time, and perhaps they needed to sell for a more important reason.

Are there not boundary clearance distance regulations for these? Or is that only flues from gas appliances? F

Perhaps because it is new technology, and there are a number of recent Patents held by Sunamp protecting the system. https://patents.justia.com/assignee/sunamp-limited I would be interested to hear the story of the Phase Change Freezer. F

I do not think that Building Regs documents are a public document, unlike Planning Docs. So I don't think they will tell a Third Party. Though some info may be there via searching the appropriate data layer on the Council's map information interface. Also something may be available through the Valuation Office Register online wrt Business Rates or Council Tax. It may also be worth a look-see under the new Change of Use Regulations with their extended PD Business to Residential changes, which are currently strung up in the courts. Ferdinand

You probably need to talk to the Council or a local planning consultant on the local policies. Imo the latter if you need information before talking to the Council. Or perhaps fire the question at the Estate Agent, as the sellers should know. F

Not sure where we are going but I'll follow the White Rabbit. No idea about ASHPs. I have a gas boiler :-). And some solar. What would a GSHP area be for that - say 30kWh a day in winter?

Very give or take I make it 200 panels. Or one tenth of an acre. Ish. F

I think my error margins are so large that the extra (or not) 5-20% mass of the moisture is De minimis. ? (And with a single bound he was free). I would put the overall error bars at +/-50% or so, but it is still a useful indication of scale - which is what I intended. F

The Jeremy Harris calculator is here: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/439-fabric-and-ventilation-heat-loss-calculator/

I think that needs a surprisingly small amount of area to feed it. I'd still like to know the mass (or volume) of timber in that. But let's do some approx. numbers. If I take it as 150 days (ie 5 months of stove-evenings per annum) that is 150 small trugs per annum. I'll take a small trug as 10kg of timber. At @SteamyTea's 4.5kWh heat output per kg of wood, that is 1500kg or 1.5 tonnes of wood per annum. That feels about right in terms of amount of wood. At a convenient (say) midrange softwood density of 500kg per cubic metre that is 3 metres of wood per annum required. So what does it take to generate 3 metres of softwood per annum? Looking at the Forestry Commission Yield Tables, you can see that you get 3 metres just from thinnings on a plantation of approx 0.3 Hectares (ie just under an acre) as long if your (say) Sitka Spruce trees are 35 years old. And the main crop will still contain 300 cubic m of standing timber per Hectare, so you can get a maincrop as well. Or you could have a smaller patch and fell a bit every year. I would say that half an acre of softwood should give you what you need for your evening fire on a continuing basis, containing 200-500 trees several decades old at 2m spacings. Ish. Very ish. A quarter of an acre of your garden will make a big hole in your need. But you will be cutting at least one tree down every month ? . Below the Forestry Commission Licence level (assuming Scotlandshire is the same as Englandshire), but they are not especially small trees. Ferdinand Forestry-commission-yield-tables.pdf

Just checking that you have found this thread:

Admit I may not be up to date. How far have you tiled? Every competent tiler I have ever watched put the edging on before the last row of tiles.

"I have improved my skills at putting plasters on my nose by continually walking into lampposts." Yes. That's logical.

I'd say "well planned by someone who chose not to punch themselves in the face for the sake of spiting their nose". One of my cheats in renos is that the plug sockets backing kitchen worktops are always above the level of the tiles. And I don't put silly things like niches in my tiling.

Is that known to be safe? The log-burner in my previous house had been known to make wood put in the fireplace to dry finally start to smoke/smoulder when it was going flat out. F

If you have PP in place and you are paying one or more others to build it: 12-24 months. If you are starting from scratch with your plot and a need to apply for planning: 18-36 months if it is being built for you, 24-48 months if you are self-managing. 24-xxx months if you are self-doing the bulk of build. And then you will be doing minor-diddling for however long you live there. I believe the longest time on "Grand Designs" was a decade. IMO. Ferdinand

I'm with the rest - get it done asap. There should imo be fewer potential issues at Outline than at Detailed. At Detailed events arrive like "when did work start", which I don't think can arise at Outline. If you had started work it would be a Retrospective application not a Detailed application aiui. Ferdinand

Canals are controlled water environments managed to a level, so the level should be constant within a couple of feet. I haven't looked but I think one of the reasons they were built/invented was to provide an alternative to rivers that flooded and drained. That leaves surface water runoff and leaks, which are the same mechanisms as everywhere else - but that the canal will provide an exit. I've seen moored boats be stove in or sink sometimes, but it has always been tying it down too tightly or holing by ice. So I'd say it could be the other way - they may be lower risk.

Sorry to hear this. Would it work to change them by dropping a note to the MD explaining exactly why they lost this 30k of business and identifying the miscreant?

I believe there is a website - @PeterW has one in his head he recommends, I think - I will have to look in the internet undergrowth to find it ?. If no one posts one, then give me a poke in a day or two.