Ferdinand

I think you'll find that the GHG will go on for a decade, given the number of houses to be sorted, and the new 68% target. My surmise was that it was limited to make everyone kick-start, which seems to have worked. I haven't yet tried to work out whether a (say) 50% C02 reduction on all the older residential properties will meet the new +7% reduction targeted by 2030. I think it might go a long way to it, but I am not sure what was assumed in the previous target.

An interesting case is the Netherlands, where there has been quite a lot of reporting in the Ag trade press about them being sustainable / self-sufficient. Teh climate is not too different. Their pop density is as high as hours, and it is partly via greenhouses (think Thanet Earth). I think we can go that way much more here. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2017/09/holland-agriculture-sustainable-farming/ On safety - I'd say quite a lot more people are using raised beds now, which sidesteps a lot of it.

When do you start?

Lots more info. Grrrreattt.

I haven't tried adjusting anything yet ? . Try one has been to spray some WD40 on the latch. It looks as though it wasn't springing back out again when closing the door. Cause may be that I disturbed some gunge when playing with the cylinder. Will see after a day or two. Potentially it may be worth cleaning it with a toothbrush. F

After 7 or 8 years, my front door needs an adjustment. The symptom is that it no longer closes snugly, and bounces open again if closed gently with no hand on the handle. To shut it properly the handle ahs to be held in open position and the latch closed carefully. The latch can be made to shut with an almost slam + hold. The only thing I have done recently has been to remove and reinsert the Euro-Barrel as I needed to check the dimensions. Can any knowledgeable cove tell me what aspect of the door is likely to need adjusting? Do I need, for example, to tighten the door in towards the hinges. Thanks Ferdinand

I raise you: Legal Defence Insurance Companies' REGULATOR.

They spend more on farm crops that don't exist ?

Does "House Type D" mean that it is a manufacturer design? If I'm honest, I'm only 60-70% keen - I think. It does not look (to me) to be very special yet. But I need context before I can elucidate: where are the road, wind, views, shelter, sun track, overlooking, big trees etc. ie a plot, a N compass, location plan and what is the relationship to the garden.

Welcome. Perhaps study some of the reasonable number of undergrounds reservoir conversions that are around now.

I don't agree there, or I suggest that benefits are de minimis. It is the equivalent of counting lamp posts. The value added hardly exists. If somebody will give me 100m a year for living 100 miles down the road one week a month, then I'll certainly think about it...

Moving the EU Parliament around costs £100m per year. https://www.euronews.com/2019/05/20/eu-parliament-s-114m-a-year-move-to-strasbourg-a-waste-of-money-but-will-it-ever-be-scrapp That's several billion over the years. All of it. Pissed away to no purpose.

All plumbers have the grace of ballet-dancers and the altheticism of gymnasts. They can emboite along the joists, and split jump back. Olga Korbut and Rusty Joiner could do it, so why not my gas engineer? It's the next British Gas advertising campaign.

The one in the South of France is probably more relaxed...

I bought a rental with the boiler in the loft several years ago, and there was no walkway to it - so may not be needed. I put one in anyway with a moveable section of insulation over it, and a sign by the loft hatch saying where to look. Personally I absolutely hate having it up there, and it will be coming downstairs when replaced. F

..

Alernatively, do it like an O level student - put it in a double walled calorimeter and measure the temperature change in the water.

Is there a PV-associated wire where a clamp meter can be fitted to measure this, say from the Inverter to the fusebox? I am not familiar with the exact wiring of these, and I expect not - at least without something more sophisticated.

To me it just looks like a poor wall. (Sorry). Not really sure why the whole thing is not engineering bricks - for that quantity the extra cost is very little. Suspect it will a tartup every 12-15 years anyway.

Is this going to be an "interesting" thread? Er ... YES !!! Welcome. When your non-grey hairs fall out, and the rest turns grey, you need to catch the last batch to make a wig.

Yes - but in my case my house is a full reno (3 walls and a hole in the ground) which does not reach "near passive" level from 10 years ago by somebody else to make a chalet bungalow with a warm roof, so I can't fit an MVHR without huge dismantling - so I went for a PIV loft fan upstairs and a HR trickle unit downstairs. Not ideal, but the best I can do. Were I building new, I would be going near passive and MVHR. Love the typo - "sane argument". That's usually the one I'm not making ?. F

I set the boffins on this some time ago wrt my trickle fans (HR and not HR) which lose more energy than MVHRs, and the amount of heat than can be carried in the volume of air put out by an MVHR - once you have allowed for the 70-90% of heat that is recovered - makes it quite negligible in terms of the actual numbers. IIRC it is of the order of 10s of £££ per year at most. It may be in a thread in Boffins' Corner somewhere. F

Thanks. I'm saying put the numbers in so we can see and adjust if we need, but as a separate line. You could argue the same for anyone who charges a vehicle which will make a material difference, or non-connected generation, but at present I think more here probably have connected solar so that is the important one. We could all have huge banks of off-grid solar and be keeping quiet, just to make you feel bad ?. F

Because any you generate and use internally reduces your metered consumption materially. So affects the number we are talking about for anyone with a grid tied solar. eg Mine generates about 5 MWh per annum, which does not go through my meter. I need to check the units before I post my meter numbers to the thread.

Think putting in amount of kWh generated by solar will be useful context, even though we cannot exactly work out how much is captured.