Ferdinand

The other way is to put a rat proof base down e.g. Real slab, and go directly on that with your shed structure instead.

I would want a firmer base than that to avoid rats - unless you can guarantee they will not burrow into hardcore. I would suggest a proper base so that it can be a permanent building. I saw someone replace a bodged base a couple of weeks ago which had rat burrows all the way round the outside such that when they dismantled the shed it collapsed round the edge when they stood on it. Alternatively leave a big enough gap under the shed itself that the cat or terrier can get in to kill the vermin. I would say you want the eps to be inaccessible , either by being sealed in concrete or under a floating floor inside the shed. F

Branching off from my Little Brown Bungalow thread, I am doing EWI which will probably be 90-120 EPS and a thin film render, to give me a U-Value for the wall of between 0.19 and 0.23. Good so far. But I have a number of questions about "how to do" to make sure I get the detail right, and I thought it would be a good separate thread so others can pile in their Qs in future. Over at the Green Building Forum (GBF) there is an extensive literature of scores of threads about this, but digging there is like excavating Troy with a toothpick. Hence this focused thread. These are my current queries: 1 - How to Mount things on the outside of the EWI There are three categories - a) - light things (say less than 5kg), b) heavy things (5kg+), (c) really heavy things (eg porch canopy). (a) might be something like an outside light, while (b) might be something like a satellite dish. What are the current suggested best practice for this? (a) used to be "drill a 25mm hole with a shovel bit, insert a piece of pipe, fill with a stronger gun-foam, and plug/screw into that". Or alternatively to "insert and glue a plug of stronger insulation, such as a different grade EPS or Extruded Polystyrene, and mount into that". I note that there are now "EWI Spiral Insulation Anchor" fittings, like large versions of plastic plaster spirals and claim 5kg capability. (b) used to be "accept the cold spot and drill into the wall with a long fixing", but I have also seen "insert a batten or sheet of plywood under the insulation when doing it". My preference is for an alternative - eg provide a 6" diameter 6" post elsewhere for a satellite disk and a precreated cable route inside. (c) has usually been "use lighter anchors and a post against the wall that passes the load into the ground" or "freestanding post" Clearly the more complex it is made at the beginning the more cost that will be added to the install up front, but that is probably worthwhile to avoid complications later. This is the best thread I have seen over at GBF: External fittings on EWI. 2 - Gas and Electric Meters Separate thread here.: Shallower Gas Meter Boxes. 3 - Ventilation via Ceiling rather than Fans On the "minimise holes in EWI" principle, I plan to take these out through the roof. Are there any difficulties or limitations on taking bathroom and kitchen extract fans (probably not the Hob Extractor Hood) out through the ceiling and a ventilation tile, other than length of duct run etc? I need a model of heat recovery fan that will do this (usually I use through the wall Vent-Axia Lo Carbon Tempra models). 4 - Gas flues I know nothing about this wrt EWI. My small bungalow does have an old flue which goes up to a chimney. Can I use this for my boiler exhaust etc? I suspect that it will not meet the modern inspection requires for Gas Flues (ie hatches everywhere). I think I can find a way around this reasonably easily. 5 - Controlling mad men with drills (Hello Virgin) This is tricky since my property will be rented. I need to stop the visiting driller killers from putting holes in my nicely warm and airtight walls. I can do things such as a clause in the rental contract, tenant education etc - that will work with longer term tenants. I suspect the best way will be that plus a pre-determined duct with a drawstring coming (eg) into an airtight, insulated built in cabinet in the appropriate location. Another option is to have the cable runs in place first. I would be most interested to here comments or variations on any of the above. Thanks Ferdinand

Hmmm. A positive side to extensive conditions to balance the negative side of saying too much then having to do it all ! Do we need a list of items that can be included in PCs on request in order to make them part of the basic build, and thereby recover VAT thereupon ? Lorryload of topsoil? 5yr supply of fertiliser (since maintenance is sometimes mandated)? Rocks for a rockery? Weathercock for the gable end?

Uh-ohhh ! Wrong answer . Previously the meter was inside the kitchen and was moved externally, so without going to look I assume it comes straight in to the back. What I need is a recessed meter buried in the EWI, but I am better living with the depth as at least it has some insulation in the wall. My EWI man has said I have to leave 75mm right back to the wall all around the thing, but it is not worth £600 to fix it. I might look at putting a slab against the wall inside. Are any risks attached if I put say a collar of 100mm XPS or Celotex around the meter box against the wall? Ferdinand

My Little Brown Bangalow has a narrow side-path at 960mm wide. And there is a damn great gas meter box 220mm deep ie front to back, which makes moving things problematic and even dustbins are a little tight. Q 1 - Simple question - can I get a shallower box for my gas meter? The only option I can currently see is a recessed one, which could be an answer. Q 2 - Can my gas man do such a change or would it be the gas company and forking out a large number of notes? Cheers Ferdinand

5m or a little more is also a useful (though not particularly generous) dimension for parking spaces - 2 lengthways or potentially one across.

I was pointing out that by increasing the width from say 5m to 5.5m there would only be room for (eg) 10x5.5m houses on a plot where there would be 11 of the 5m wide houses, and the impact that would have on feasible selling price. Costs would hvae to be recouped across 91% of the number of houses. Probably a consideration for developers. The plan as presented is 4.75m internally wide and 5m if we count one wall. See the width of bedroom 2 at 15.5". Do you think it is an acceptable plan for a terrace? People I have spoken to living there seem to think they are OK. Orientation here is roughly N/S but the estate has no through traffic so kids play in the street. Agree on your other comments, though there is a bit of debate on crosswise stairs since that can commit you to a front door directly into the front room, which has its own questions. I was just hunting around for a dimensioned plan of Kevin McCloud's 3 bedroom terraces at The Triangle, Swindon, as a comparison, and I can't find one anywhere - even in the Planning Permission. I think that technically one can be required now, as most places have "recommended" space standards. http://pa1.swindon.gov.uk/publicaccess/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=documents&keyVal=KMKE7GPT0FD00 I wonder whether a current issue is that so much attention is paid to the outside of houses that they forget about sweating the detail inside.

As a counter I would say that even a full width leanto will reduce the efficiency of the design ... in terms of amount of structure for the space, and in terms of surface area to volume ratio for thermal efficiency, insulation cost etc. If it is plus half depth (=4m x 5m internal space) you are adding 50% more roof and 25% more wall (both external walls and internal) for the sake of 20% more space. Plus maintaining the upper roof would be more difficult (though there are easy solutions if they think in advance). For efficiency I might be more inclined to add 2 storeys to the extension and treat the whole thing as a slightly larger house (extra 50% depth makes it 1500-1600 sqft - +200sqft on each floor plus perhaps 100sqft in the master suite), which would be more efficient and manageable (no extra separate roof), but that then brings questions of balance between bedroom space and living space into the equation and makes a fundamental difference to the size of the master suite. In this design to find the 3 bed efficiency sweet spot for 2016 and to meet regs, I think I might be able just to make it perhaps 0.4-0.6m wider, which would also really help the 1st Floor. But then as a developer you would only get 10 houses where here you would get 11, which will impact the required selling price by nearly 10%. That might argue for an extra 1m depth instead if the plan can be organised appropriately.

>Would that hall give enough space with regards to disabled regs Quite possibly not. I would expect to need a little extra width to fit in the requirements for the latest regs. Compared to traditional terraces, it is a version of the "corridor" terrace using the attic, without the rear leanto, and with very little unused volume.

Congratulations.

I think if I was building some terraced houses, I might use that as inspiration-fodder.. There is another version which is 4 bed and only slightly wider.

I thought I would post a plan of a terraced house I ran across recently. The small estate of houses was built in 2004. Typical but pleasant modern houses, but this 2.5 storey terrace has a notably efficient layout. In the overall footprint of 5m by 9m (including external walls) includes 1047 sqft, and includes: Large lounge 12' x 16'. Dining room 8' x 10' attached to 10' x 7' kitchen Three double bedrooms (one ensuite) Family bathroom Small utility A reasonable amount of storage Here is the Plan: I like: That circulation space is minimised to around 10%. That each bedroom has space for bed + chair + desk, even though bed 3 at 9' x 11' is tight. That there is space for a workdesk on the middle landing should it be needed. That the layout is reasonably flexible. Should it be desired, bedroom 2 could be made into 2 singles of 8'5" x 8' each, which is still larger than most 3rd bedrooms even in semi-detached houses, or could have its own ensuite included. Looking at the plan a decade later, I think there are only three things I would change: Remove the wall between the kitchen and the dining room to create an open space, and insert a small breakfast bar. Add a roof window or two to the rear aspect of the Master Bedroom. Make changes necessary to comply with more recent regs - especially around disabled access. What do you think?

I am completely Solaredge for individual panel optimisation and inverters, which is a different technology to microinverters. Somebody else will have to explain the pros and cons since I can no longer remember :-) . I seem to recall that the extra cost was fairly minimal, and since I have variously shaded parts of my array and may rearrange the panels in future, it seemed a small amount extra (5%?) to pay. Ferdinand

Quite possible :-). But in that case that part of the letter is not relevant to the particular Planning App. I think that @Temp's 1-6 list is about right as comment. It is really up to the Op to decide their objectives. Ferdinand

I do not think that the Council has the power unlilaterally to alter a Planning Permission after it has been granted. To my eye that includes rewording a condition. Once it is baked in it should not be able to be un-cocked-up. Perhaps ask them at the appropriate time under exactly which piece of Law they have the power to do this. I would say they are trying to avoid their elephant trap, perhaps by pulling the wool. I would be needing to ask a planning consultant or Planning Aid to give me a definitive answer on this, and the implications. For the latter the question will need to be worded generically. Ferdinand

In those circs it is worth talking to them first along the lines of "I am unhappy because xyz and I am willing to Appeal, so will you withdraw the condition". Needs a check first that applying to have it removed won't cause you to go over the short time limit, or prevent you Appealing by procedure. Need also to watch for possible tactics such as "thinking about it ... maybe ... verbal yes ... wait .. oops you are out of time but sorry I was waiting for a response from Councillor Stonewall". Verbal contract etc. Ferdinand

That was my logic, and why I went for 9.98 kWp. If you have the extra 5k earning 1% interest in a Bank Account .... Your choice :-) . Ferdinand

Can you paint the surface with anything after the fact, even if more reflective? Ferdinand

Probably a man who knows his customers.

Green roofs can be good. Green walls are anathema. And lots of maintenance. They did a big green roof on the Timbrel Arch Grand Design in Kent, and showed some detail. The video will be around somewhere. Ferdinand

You also need to think about damage when opening the door or if Tearaway Timmy from Timbuctooth is playing at going into saloons like The Man with No Name. I quite like either small plastic nipples, e.g. Mini stick on feet, just where the handle will touch, or a doorstop on the floor or a kerbooiiinggg! doorstop on the skirting, or stick on wedges for the floor. The stick on feet are the most discreet. Ferdinand

I am waiting for @JSHarris to get a drone and invent a device to do it from the air ! Whereas I am happy to put my proven technology back in the garage and relax with my Aviation cocktail. That actually could be a good idea if spraying eg dilute bleach or some other chemical. Needs de-industrialising, though. Hmmm. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/RJX-professional-agriculture-uav-drone-sprayer_60642902411.html

Does anyone have any views of less fashionable different types of floors for rooms that may get messy - kitchens, bathrooms, utilities, boot rooms etc. I am quite partial to vinyl off a roll, as it is inexpensive, warm underfoot, can be soft with underlay, and for many rooms it can come in a single piece, and can be selaed round the edge with a bead of appropriately coloured silicon. And it is cheap enough (£6-£15 per sqm) to be almost disposable. Click fit vinyl tiles seem to be an excuse to treble or more the price while losing the benefits. Has anyone used Lino recently? What do you think? That seems to be even harder wearing than Vinyl. I am considering options for the kitchen and bathroom of my Little Brown Bungalow, which has suspended floors throughout. Another possibility would be click fit Bamboo laminate, as I want to be able to get under it easily for maintenance. The sub floor will either be floating, or the suspended floor with a void filled with EPS beads or LECA, air sealed in each case. Thoughts welcome. Ferdinand