Ferdinand

Can you identify the source of that? It seems quite narrow and focused if it is supposed to be a general standard - almost as if one particular specialist charity have nobbled the regulator with the specific requirements of their user group. But it is also very generic on other things, for example in things suitable for people who have a visual disability. eg a Class 3 mobility scooter can be up to 850mm wide, which won't work well if a 750mm wide front door or porch door can be advertised as "accessible" with no qualification. TBF Class 3 scooters are rather chunky. But similar things might apply to flimsy or shiny grab rails and 100+kg people.

Gent spraying a house with my Wagner machine - which is perhaps more semi-pro than yours (new cost approx £700). Courtesy @Hecateh. This is running on very low power - it will generate a fan of paint as big as me, and goes up to 200 atmospheres iirc. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/uploads/monthly_2018_09/DSCF1416_x264.mp4.fa93da2a2638879a4d3aa8b7e948aa0c.mp4

If you can it may be better to just drop the gubbins into the newly opened paint tin after you have stirred it for 20 minutes or however long. Opinions differ on that,

Beware water...

My one tip: only use each bucket once - any dried up paint from last time ie crunchy bits are the things that will block. My pattern is to use 5l tubs and ideally use up the whole one each time, then tip the alst bit of paint into the next tub. But the last job we did was about 3 coats on 350sqm of wall, not a bathroom ceiling. (And if you get too close the paint will bounce off).

It is quicker than spending an hour cleaning out your gummed up sprayer ?. *innocent face*

You have read the mega thread, haven’t you?

So that is te various sizes of pinhole the paint goes through.

Is this in the ensuite? Why is the shower not running along the other side of the corner? If it is butted (sorry) up against the loo, you need to think carefully about how you will clean all the different bits. Mine is butted up against a bath, and I deliberately went for a narrow bath to give me a comfortable hand width to clean between. If you mean the one in the cloaks, that should be Ok if you get your wall coverings right. F

I now have some raspberries, so they are summer fruiting ones. So time to wait a bit then be ready to prepare for next year.

This that @Conor just posted on his blog is quite a nice illustration of intermediate space on a sloping site.

Because any light blocking junk that gets put on it slides straight off ? .

I would expect your arch to answer concise followup questions without excessive extra charge. I mean - this one should be about 5-10 minutes.

Ask your architect some detailed questions. Her skill and judgement should give her an edge in commenting.

I would hope that if you have a package or a person that drew the 3d above it can give you some real numbers based on whatever assumptions it makes to give a projection of simulated daylight. I cannot identify particular packages. There are formulas which tell you light intensity wrt distance from windows, and there may even be stuff in the Building Regs. Anecdotally, my kitchen is approx 6m x 4.5m, with approx 4-4.5sqm of north facing glazing (having taken frames and obstructions off), in the Midlands, and I find that I need to use lights quite a lot of the time for eg making recipes. I think it unlikely that sufficient light will make it into your kitchen space to avoid needing lights nearly all the time. I would say it is an open question whether your living space would have enough light to eg read at the non-window side - unless you have skylights or they are full height windows. F

I think you want some numbers to help you judge. That is, get the light modeller to give you light intensity figures, then compare them to a real environment measured with a meter. I think you will struggle with that layout.

On the building itself. You have a reasonably plain and not very interesting building. You don' have to focus entirely on changing the structure itself, and personally i think I would look through the lens of using it (argued in last post) rather than "what does it look like". I think that changes will be appropriate, but that I would treat it as perhaps one package now and another one further down the track - perhaps think 7-10 years. And I think the roof (unless it is failing) is one I would leave for now as it could swallow so much of your budget. Consider Las Vegas ?. You go there for three reasons - gambling, floor shows and fun. But the cards and the go-go dancers do not just stand there to be looked at. Both are also about display, and concealment, and diversion of the senses, and implication about things unseen, and creating thoughts in the mind of the viewer which haven't actually been done. Play some games and make it a house fun. You can do that with your house - if you put a suitable pergola or part or perforated wall 3m in front of your house you may be able to leave it as is, or do something inexpensive. You can grow a climber (eg Virginia Creeper or a Wisteria) right up the end gable to hide it. Or a half width terrace to break up the monotonous facade. I am slightly drawn to a simple render of the walls, and leaving the roof and windows alone unless there is a real reason to do it, and then spend the weight of the budget on things that directly impact on your enjoyment of living there. If you want I think you could be quite bold - eg somehing posmodern could be interesting, such as an arcade build from royal blue bricks, but that might need careful handling. Just thoughts. Ferdinand

Thanks for coming back. A few further thoughts now that we have a little more context - eg it being a forever home. I think there is too much focus on the building itself as I have hinted. I think you need to reflect some more on how you will actually live in it, and how eg the hierarchy of space will work - public space, semi-public, semi-private, private. I think one question is that at the moment the entire front is public space - ie a passerby can see right up to the wall of our building. The hint at a pergola is about intermediate space - where are your children or grandchildren going to play, where will you eat your breakfast or supper outside, where will you sit with your mates and a beer, where will you have conversations with your neighbours, bonfire night parties, buffets and so on? The answers depend on he site, the orientation to the sun, what you actually own, the layout of the close (looks like an open plan cul-de-sac with fences under 1m but old enough that you can get away with bending a few rules). I can see an argument for learning from the house form of eg Central Europe (high fences at the boundary) or Africa / ME (treat it as a compound). In the UK at the least i might try to turn part of that paved area into semi-private space where you can sit out, and neighbours can observe if they deliberately look but not enter without perceived permission. One way would to put a wall and/or hedge round your boundary at the front, or a hedge (forever home = time to grow). Then if you have a pergola plus division within that new outside space you get a whole new half to your garden. I am planning an outside terrace at the front of mine for sitting, as that is where the sun is throughout the day. But I already have a wall round my front garden / drive. Can you do something with that dwarf wall - knock a few holes in it such that it becomes a row of seats with something replacing the first bit of paving? Render it pink? Parterre? Checkers, Nine Mens Morris, Hopscotch and a Labyrinth set into the paving design for the under-12s and everyone else? Perhaps take some inspiration from the Get out there and get some ideas. eg Inspiration from the Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris or Village Squares with moderate sized fruit trees over paving? Use you imagination, but give it some food to chew on. Ferdinand

Good advice above. My only add would be to check now if there are any nuisances that need sorting now. eg I once had someone build an extension with a gas flu existing over my drive; that got moved round the corner as it did not meet regulations. And if you have a local expert you can have a conversation with who will be an informal sounding board, it is useful. Example would be a work colleague married to an architect etc, The legal insurance cover is a very useful stick, but if they take it over you may not agree with all the decisions. Ferdinand

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Very nicely written story.

Any attachments which are unused get listed at the end. So you may need to delete the other other video. (TBH I'd recommend using something like Vimeo or Youtube to embed).

One idea: go to your local agricultural merchant and have a look at their metal gateposts. It may not be an intuitive answer, but they should have posts designed for gates that are up to 12ft wide and up to 7 bar, and so will be very robust. When I have these they have usually been approx 8 ft 6 in long, and I have used them around 1/3 in the ground. They seem to come in 3"-5" diameters. You may wish to put some type of cosmetic larger post round it. Ferdinand

I am probably with Russell on this. A shipping container is designed to be a strong monocoque as a unit without holes in it, and projects I have seen seem to go across the grain of that principle ... unless they can leverage the precise dimensions and really minimise work. F