Marvin

Hi @Sparrowhawk At my brother in law's home I turned off the power to the sockets unscrewed the sockets to get to the back box, unscrewed the back box (screws usually screwed in sideways), mixed up some bonding quite thick, cleaned all the dust from the hole, dampened the sides of the hole, carefully filled the back and sides and coated the back and sides of the box and wiggled it into the right position with the wires sticking out the right length and left to dry. Scraped out excess bonding once dry, siliconed any air holes, tidied up the wall finish as required, refixed the socket when all dry and turned the power back on. I used a bag of very old bonding which goes off quick. Sometimes adding bits of block or brick to the hole if required. I think if you use hot water with fresh bonding it will go off quickly. @nod will know. Mix small amounts and practice until it works. Good luck M

Your local council planning department. Some records are held in files in the offices, some are on the Internet. I would also look at properties near by and see if anyone else has converted their garage. You can then check planning on line for that. Also how did the external appearance change?

Have you looked up the original planning permission for your property: reference ?

Hi @BMcN I looked up an iBoost. Its exactly the same as a solic200 except the CT clamp on our Solic is hard wired. Here is one example of an adjustable relay clamp. 04K-SD-NO-AL Normally open-type current sensing switch current over-limit output closed switch signal. The power passing through the hole in the clamp drives the CT to switch. making some kind of magnetic field? I don't know... Above I assume you are meaning CT clamps. You have to have a bit of thought about the system.... Firstly you are dealing with two different types of equipment using electricity 2 different ways: Heating element are resistive loads Battery chargers are inductive loads As far as I understand, a pure heating element will run with less than full power, only taking longer to heat up, but a resistive load needs all the load to work properly. So the iBoost using the CT clamped will monitor excess loads being produced and will divert any amount of excess load to a heater and it will work. However, as far as I understand, a battery charger (say 240V AC to 12V DC) will not work without the full load being supplied. The bonus about the CT clamp above is that it will trigger a switch inside that will connect the 2 terminals, depending on how much power is running through it but just like a normal CT clamp it is not connected to the mains power. So what we did was set the power requirement on the clamp to the minimum house running amperage plus the amperage required to charge the batteries, and fixed the clamp on the positive from the PV. This meant every time the supply from the PV went above what the CT clamp was set to the charger would come on. Your iBoost would still work as it monitors any excess to the grid. (usually on the wire from the consumer unit to the main meter) What happens to your excess power when the hot water is fully heated?

I use tile adhesive if levels need to be made up on the resin stone shower trays. If on wood I always seal the wood first.

Hi @BMcN I do not know how an iboost works. We have different equipment installed: We use CT clamp relays as the best fix. When the PV is producing over either 2kW or 2.5kW or 3kW (depending which CT relay clamp is chosen) our 10amp electric vehicle charger energises. When the car is charging the CT relay clamp on tge EV charger cable stops the batteries from charging. Likewise, when the PV produces over 1.6kW the battery charger energises, but not if the EV is charging. Our Solic200 diverter energises any time there is excess power. Once the hot water tank is up to temperature, during the winter any further energy is diverted to storage heaters. We have not exported any power since October. Good luck Marvin.

Hi @JamesPa Below is the utility room housing the buffer and hot water tank etc, and the end of the kitchen. Its been up there about 18 months. No vibration problems at all. Went for widest rubbery feet to absorb any vibration (but I must say even when running there seems to be none) and to distribute the load of a wide area. Wife considers the noise level to be similar to the old gas boiler. Marvin

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/heat-pumps/planning-permission-air-source-heat-pump#main-menu

Only about 88kg though.

Well, good luck with that! Yes. These are the main factors I see you have to take into account when calculating. If the extension looks like a cube then there are 6 sides you will have to take into account all 6 sides thermal resistance, identified for each type of surface (windows, roof or what ever) and the air flow, all related to the temperature the other sides of the 6 sides, including any shading and or wind exposure, over the extremes of your local climate, all against the temperature required inside over various times of the day, as well as the room use and occupancy. Good luck Marvin

Personally I would/have used several times EPDM. (we have our ASHP on it). Unfortunately/fortunately I will not be around to see if it lasts 50 years (5 so far), but if there's a problem with it, I'm sure I'll whinge.

Hi @DaveAF Yes, your right about the mains pipe ownership, however what I was wondering was, if the insurance company is worried about your steel pipe being an insurance risk, do they not consider the steel main pipe the same risk? It all seems strange to me.

Because we sometimes have high temperature water storage all our hot water supplies from the tank are regulated to a max of 45C.

Hi @DaveAF Is that a steel pipe coming into the building from the mains in the road? There happy for that to stay??

Hi @ToughButterCup Yes I remember our delight at the first 1, 10, 100 and 1000kWh!!! Most exciting next was charging the car, then the hot water via a diverter. I am keenly looking forward to the first 10,000kWhs! Camelias @SteamyTea? No, not out yet. But soon...

I would expect the drain to spill over when used. look at all the marks on the wall the moss. If that's a rainwater down pipe, next time it rains have a look or pour a bucket of water into the down pipe and see what happens. I bet it bounces off the concrete bottom of the drain and goes everywhere...

Hi @Brinners I think the first pictures were the UPSTAIRS bay window. Roof problem?? I would check the roof look in the loft. Lots of ceiling cracks upstairs... Take pictures.

We have a radiator for heating and an electric towel radiator for spring/autumn coolness. 90W is plenty for us on a timer....

I'm with @Temp. Need to see photos of the outside. I guess its a bay window with a bit of pitched roof. May be leaking.

We use lemon skin, when we've finished with it.

If the existing wire is under fluffy in the loft, it is accessible. I did this last week for a client. I assume the fan is in the wall, so cable down wall. The only problem, based on your information, is how tricky it is to install the new cable up the wall. The way to install a new cable behind a tiles wall.... If you live on the isle of wight, I will come over and do it for you free.

+1. with @nod However in my humble opinion if you are going to use all the listed items and general house use then 3 phase will be the way to go. In fact probably sooner rather than later...

On our 5.12kW PV system we have several records of producing 24kWh a day in August 2022 and about nothing on some days in December.

Hi @WWilts Crap! If the thing will only operate at 90% RH why have something you can adjust???? However if you turn the humidity dial up clockwise, gently, to the limit and it turns off then the humidity level that the fan turns on at has been set too low. Don't forget it has a delayed stop so may run on for 50 mins! (turn all the way anticlockwise for the least delayed off. I usually set fans between 40 and 60% relative humidity as this is considered the most appropriate for a home. This may or may not change things....

Yes we also have a "charger/inverter only system" which is not connected to the mains, which charges when there is excess PV and only discharges to 'mains unconnected' low power items in the house. When the batteries are discharged the relays disconnect the live neutral and earth from the battery system and connect the mains live neutral and earth. M