Mattg4321

Nearly right Nick 😃 Since the 18th edition came into force, the requirement has gone from ensuring all wiring on escape routes is protected against premature collapse, to just ‘all wiring’. It now applies everywhere, including data/telephone/tv cabling.

If they do, they find somebody else to do the work next time.

You’re not alone. That post could’ve been written by me, almost word for word. It’s all about trust. I’m nearly always cheaper on my day/hourly rate than if I price.

Looks like BG, although a failed switch doesn’t usually cause MCB/RCD to operate. Points more towards damaged cable or perhaps even pinched cable behind switch. You need to turn the power off and unscrew the switches to start with. Make sure all lighting circuits are off - there may be more than one in a 2 or 3 gang switch.

Assuming it was working before, either a damaged cable or faulty switch.

Largely I agree with you that that is the best approach and what I do. You won’t be able to argue it ‘needs’ or ‘must’ be done though. The reality is most people don’t. You’re free to interpret the regs however you like, as is everyone else. Here is some guidance from IET. As ever, clear as mud. I asked my NIC inspector last year what his thoughts were. He said plastic clips above plasterboard ceiling is acceptable to him. The electrical designer could deem it appropriate to rely on the plasterboard ceiling to provide fire protection to the wiring system in order to prevent premature collapse. However, many influences should be considered such as building size, complexity and evacuation time. https://electrical.theiet.org/bs-7671/faqs/cables-and-fire-protection-faqs/

The regulations don’t make specific mention of exact scenarios (such as behind a plasterboard ceiling), only that they must be protected against ‘premature collapse’. It’s generally accepted that above a plasterboard ceiling plastic clips would be fine, however it might be good practice to fit metal. Have a look at this efixx video. There was also another one where someone from the IET was discussing it and gave the same opinion (against someone from NAPIT who was suggesting metal clips might be required). In practice most people do not use metal fixings above plasterboard currently from what I’ve observed.

That wiring all needs ripping out and start again with a real electrician. It’s a total mess. Cables run out of safe zones, cables that will cause problems with plasterboarding and plastering. Cables run to positions that seem implausible. However the cables don’t need metal clips as a poster suggested above. As long as they are above a plasterboard ceiling, this would be enough to stop them from ‘prematurely collapsing’. Having said that, it’s not a bad idea to fix them securely with something metal anyway. You need to seriously consider getting shot of everyone who has contributed to this disaster of a job imo.

It’s hardly the worst thing that’s wrong there, or the most difficult to change. It’s either very lazy or just plain ignorance though. Alarm bells are ringing for everyone here I think looking at those pictures. As stressful as it will be for you, I’d be wanting pretty much the whole lot out and start again with competent trades. The DPM seems to be some sort of mish mash of whatever they had lying around. There’s rubble/mess all over the place. The pipework in the floor is a total mess - pipework crossing over each other, uneven spacing, possible kinks. The electrical work is messy at best - dry lining boxes and the wrong clips for the cable (are they being used as strain relief/cord grips in absence of sand in the boxes? The pipework to boiler looks a bit better, but whoever did it obviously doesn’t own a soldering mat ffs. I’m sure your day has been thoroughly ruined, but on the bright side, there is still time to get it rectified. Personally I think serious questions need to be asked of the builder/plumber/electrician at a minimum.

Why has the sparks used dry lining boxes surface mounted next to the boiler? Is it that hard to go and get a surface pattress or two.

What potential danger would be caused by this given the loads are fixed. Overcurrent (not short circuit) protection can be omitted for a fixed load if necessary. Not true. It’s standard practice to fit an infused spur off a 32A ring final circuit using a cable only rated at 27A best case. Also standard practice to connect an oven/hob flex - perhaps 2.5mm2 or less, to a 6mm2 T&E on a 32A circuit with no further fuse. Double sockets are usually only rated to 20A, so this is a bad idea. 2 single sockets would be ok. Better still, just have your electrician fit a dual appliance outlet plate.

Most other countries manage ok with sockets in bathrooms. As above, people just run leads anyway if they’re that way inclined. What with widespread use of RCD’s, it’s time for the IET to have a rethink imo. Also, for future reference, the distance required is now 2.5m. Not 3m since it was changed in 18th AMD 2

5kw is 21.7 amps at 230v or 20.8 amps at 240v. Assuming 2.5mm2 is twin and earth, this can take up to 27 amps if ref method C - clipped direct. You may be able to get a 25 amp RCBO for your consumer unit. Guessing someone will be wiring in the new inverter though, so why not let them deal with it?

Yes, no problem. Suggest drilling where there isn’t a knockout if possible. That’s probably obvious though.

Drill extra holes where needed on the metal knockout boxes.

Sockets are relatively cheap in new builds. Budget £70-100 per socket, supplied and installed, depending on where in the country and the finish of the socket.

I’ve got my own electrical company in SE England and this sort of build is something we often get involved in. £36k is possible, but only if the spec is very high - Lutron or something like that, with AV, CCTV, data etc run everywhere and a load of outside lighting etc. In reality half that amount should be enough to get a very good spec. If it was basic, 4x sockets in each room, centre light and downlights in kitchen and bathrooms then much less again.

Duct with a rope through 100%.

Click is the best value for money and reliability. I must’ve fitted 10’s of thousands of their accessories. Very few failures. Schneider ultimate if you’re going screwless flat plate. Click Definity is poor imo. There is a vast difference in quality between the better brands like Click or Hager etc and cheap rubbish like LAP or BG. You’ll get loads of issues with that stuff in my experience. It’s not worth saving a few pennies a socket for.

I had to put one of those arrestor things into a previous house. It improved it by 75%, so worth doing. Normally caused by unsecured pipework and water being turned off abruptly. Washing machine solenoids or mixer taps etc. That’s my understanding anyway. Seems odd if it’s just happening ‘by itself’.

Recommendations by word of mouth is by far the best way. Facebook and the like are ok, but as above you often get wives and parents etc giving out ‘recommendations’. I’ve had more than 1 issue with people I’ve got round my house this way. I get all my work through word of mouth. Don’t pay for advertising at all, except a basic website. Never seem to be short of work. I see some of my ‘competitors’ on Facebook etc always touting for work, I guess some of them will be new and building a client base, but some are just not very good.

My house currently has an 18kW gas boiler fitted. 1970 house. Uninsulated floor, half the windows original single glazed. Original radiators from 1970 - no fins. Minimal loft insulation. 120m2 All this will soon change, but my point is that the boiler easily copes. Even in -8 temps recently no problem, plenty in hand. It wasn’t running continuously by any means.

Pretty much that. I don’t get enough chance to crank the volume up to make anything else worthwhile these days really. Perhaps in a few years! I think it depends how big your room is. My lounge is about 4.5mx4m and the beam still sounds good. Much bigger maybe not? Most, if not all, people who hear it are very impressed, but these are not audiophiles! How good do you want/need it to be is what you probably should base your decision upon. You could always add a sub later. Unless you have a much larger than average room then I think a beam would be adequate vs an arc. Unless you are very demanding, in which case you should be looking at 5.1/atmos etc anyway.

I have gen 1, bought not long prior to gen 2 release. Typical! I’m very happy with it, the sound is decent, although not as good as the 5.1 system I sold to make way for it. I have 2 very young children and couldn’t make use of that anymore, so this is a compromise for now. I would have a sub if not for that reason. Possibly surrounds too. I’d be looking at the arc too if I could play at optimum volume still too! The above said, a beam alone will be good enough for 90% of the population imo. Depends if you are one of the 10%? Some people are happy with the built in tv speakers even!

Playing devils advocate, how would NuHeat attempt to justify their claim that such a small heat loss goes through an uninsulated solid floor?