Mattg4321

Thanks both of you. I think those adaptors are for connecting clay PIPE to plastic. Not clay fitting to plastic. I don’t believe there’s a fitting for that. If there is, I certainly can’t find it. A design cock up from when it was built. I’ve just had a look at the connection for my downstairs loo and appear to have similar. Just pointed up with mortar. Which seems to prove my theory that is what used to be at bottom of soil stack. I think I may well run a bead of ct1 or similar round it to seal the inside edge and then point up what’s left. Cant see that leaking. I can’t really see a better option and it’s quick cheap and easy as a bonus.

Thanks very much for taking the time to write this substantial reply! It’s an internal soil stack. To be boxed in asap. The finned pipe connectors are for fitting inside a clay PIPE, not a clay FITTING/ELBOW like I have? (apologies for caps) My clay elbow is designed for a clay pipe to fit into it? A complete cock up by the original builders in the 60’s imo.

It will be boxed in so just want to patch up/sort out what I have properly

I think both those adaptors are designed to go in a clay pipe, not a clay fitting/elbow?? Got a link to band seal please? Thanks

To add, not sure what’s at the bottom of the plastic. Some sort of metal, but not sure exactly what.

Late 60’s build. Got a soil stack - plastic 110mm connecting directly into a clay 4 inch elbow at ground level. Unfortunately and obviously, the OD of the plastic is smaller than clay pipe so it doesn’t fit properly. It will have been like this since built. I’m thinking there used to be mortar around the joint to seal, but this has failed over the years. When toilet is flushed you can see it slightly bubbling around the join and it’s very slightly damp, but not affecting surrounding area. However, I’m worried about what happens if the pipework backs up. Surely that join needs to be waterproof!! How should I rectify? See picture below. Thanks in advance.

Consider you might want a high level alarm/indicator at house, which would require extra core(s) potentially. Always best to run a duct with a rope through in these situations if you can.

Just a standard 35mm 2 gang metal box will be fine

Being wet isn't a problem, if that's what you mean.

Thought as much. Thanks!

I’ve got sliding doors roughly 4m wide. Is it normal practice to fit the underfloor heating expansion strip against the door sill as well as around all walls in room? I was just considering a potential weak spot in the floor there if it is done, although I can see why it might well be needed. The skirting will cover it where it’s fitted to walls and will be low traffic anyway there. Thanks

They are wired in series, so the current will be constant. The voltage rises when you add panels. You need to check what the max input voltage/MPPT range of each MPPT is, as well as the current

I wouldn’t mix those on the same MPPT, but somebody more experienced than me with PV might come along and say that’s wrong. I’d imagine that the output of the newer panels would be compromised, and dragged down to the output of the old panels. You may even be nearing the max MPPT voltage rating anyway. On a separate MPPT or inverter, of course, crack on - subject to DNO approval if grid tied.

And drip grooves/channel on the bottom near the edge. It appears they have, as it’s only happening on the joint. Should some sort of drip groove have been formed in mortar? I don’t know to be honest, but seems sensible to me.

MCS is a scam. What are they contributing - because it certainly aint high standards. I just installed my own PV and battery storage, done a hell of a lot better than most MCS installs I see. Had to pay Octopus £250 to get export payments, but still a big saving compared to getting MCS registered. NICEIC is enough of a ball ache.

I wouldn’t bother with one for a normal domestic property. The consultant will likely massively overspec things, or just come up with something so basic that a decent contractor would do the same in their sleep anyway. What you really need to concentrate on is finding decent contractors.

It’s finished awaiting the roofers coming back to tile it in. It was a ball ache to be honest. The angle of the roof changing at the eaves meant nothing really sat quite as I wanted and it involved a lot of improvisation. I’m not sure how others have found it. I notice the poster earlier in this has some sort of slate? roof, so perhaps the kick at the bottom isn’t quite as pronounced as mine with concrete interlocking tiles. I don’t think I’d go to the gutter if I did it again if I could help it.

I was looking at those a couple of months back. There was some 10% off codes kicking around. Possibly now expired, but worth a google. Very cheap, but I decided to spend a little more and match my Sunsynk inverter with Sunsynk batteries as I wanted minimal chance of buck passing should there be any problems. Bit more expensive though, but slightly better spec too iirc.

I used Phase Electrical wholesalers, who I use regularly through my business for non solar related materials. They now have a renewables division in Hastings. This is their 'retail' website https://www.green2go.co.uk/ I paid a lot less than the prices shown there, but I'm spending 4 figure sums there most months so no idea if that made a difference. ITS and Midsummer were a bit more expensive for me, but may not be for you. Plenty of videos on Sunsynk on Youtube from the likes of eFixx. Time will tell how reliable it is, but it's definitely got a lot of plus points and can pretty much do everything.

Tesla is overpriced imo. I don’t see how you can make it pay back. I’ve gone with Sunsynk inverter and batteries. No complaints yet (3 months in) and a lot less money. Should pay back in around 5 years or less depending on electricity prices for me (although labour was free)

Thanks all, I'll try and remember to take some pictures and update this

https://www.screwfix.com/p/felt-support-tray-5-pack/36622?tc=OA5&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPzgEcfCF_SZZDp8-alGqZ-b8&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4a2BhD6ARIsALgH7DpeOwsWCIBweiO47Ge4dCTasY_lGPJ6KSErzIq2sQxveSer3WhYQtUaAqBnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#product_additional_details_container Like this? I’ve already got the drip flashing (ubiflex), so I could use this in conjunction with the eaves support tray.

Hi all I’m about to fit the PV panels to the roof and have been studying the detail where the GSE system meets the gutter (there won’t be any tiles below the solar array). The GSE drawings show the flashing at the bottom running straight into the gutter, however my roof and most roofs have the fascia set higher than the rafter tails to kick the bottom tile up. This will inevitably leave a ‘trough’ at the bottom - although perhaps this is how it always is with just the membrane? Doesn’t seem right to me. Do I fit a sloped batten to kick up the drip flashing (so it’s properly supported over its full length) - seems a ball ache. Or do I adjust the height of the fascia - though this could be problematic as there are tiles either side of the array. Anyone fitted all the way to the gutter before? Thanks

If you go electric, don’t get talked into an electric boiler. Some plumbers seem to like them, but really they’re the most totally pointless things ever made. Electric resistance heating should be kept simple - immersion heater and electric radiators, far less to go wrong

They’ll look the same as they do now, but be a couple of % more efficient!