saveasteading

OK. what thickness might help you practically? This is a house so nobody is going to break the floor. The weakest layer is of course the insulation. After that the loads are very well spread over the stone below. If the hardcore is good quality , ie not a heap of old bricks, then that can be reduced in thickness. Likewise the sand. The sand is there for adjusting the level so there might be none above the highest point in the stone. so i am suggesting 100mm concrete, on 150 PIR, on 150 of stone and sand (total). that is still 400mm which is a lot to dig out, but a lot less than 500. IFFFFF you do it to a high standard of level control and compaction.

If you haven't already, tell them in writing that they are suspended and you will make no payment while you enquire about how to proceed. That will include mortgage advisor, bco, the ARB, and a construction lawyer. If that doesn't get a compromise or a walkaway, I'll be amazed. That is of course if they are ARB registered. What does it say on their blurb?

150 pir is the pragmatic choice, even 100 if it helps a lot. 100mm concrete is plenty. You can drive forklifts on 150 if the hardcore is good.

Surely not. The heat loss starts at the internal face. Extra thickness is effectively added to the outside face and does not increase effective areas of losses. The heat loss programs may say otherwise but be wrong. As I've said before, I've met some of the BRE people, and discussed Sbem and BREeam and they didn't understand much about reality, or want to discuss problems.

Yes I've been following that, but it's a shed, so fair enough. Different for a house. Another thought: 600mm thick, or whatever, bales in walls will increase the gross area or decrease the nett area.

OK. It's like any suspended ceiling and there are lots of products. But you are right that it needs thought as potentially could fail and crash down as one.

Designing the chimney on a crematorium is a sensitive matter. I assume that one is not the working one but is to give a domestic look. Haha.

On the other matter, we have the same. If you want the vat back it has to be in your name and of course you paying. The supplier will rate it at 5% if you tell them the situation. It doesn't matter that it is across a neighbour's or council land.

An isolated garden room can be made of anything. Slabs on the floor is easiest. I don't think I would insulate the floor as any heating is to warm the air for a short time. Ditto a lightweight temporary add-on ( greenhouse/ orangery). 25m2 at 75mm thick concrete is about 2m3. 20 mixes and / or barrowloads. A proper extension is very different.

That's the fascination of this discussion. I have the same opinion in reverse...show me that it won't be a disaster. So many of us think it's a bad idea and advise against. @Selinais thinking again. @sgt_woulds is sold on straw. I look forward to hearing of any straw builds as I'm prepared to be convinced. Out.

It isn't very significant and would barely be thought of if the same was laid in a floor over, loading the same joists. The cost is high in materials and skill, and it is entirely for aesthetics. @BadgerBodgertell us more about that beautiful ceiling. What timber and dimensions, shadow gap, how was it kept straight in such long runs?

Yes but I wouldn't. Ground moves. If yours is clay it may shrink seasonally. You'll need high quality stone and rather thick. A floating floor of eps will be tricky to get level.

I came across this unanswered post. Do the queries still apply or resolved?

Well done. That is good information and confirms the seriousness. How much less would you have paid if you knew the issue? Will someone else take the risk? The surveyor may be professional or look for a getout. Beware of pallyness and any attempt at agreement or 'looking into it".

A slope is an asset. Your drainage can follow it and not get deep. In sandy soil if you use perforated pipe, only severe rain will reach the end. All your manhole and such, and digester of there is one, are also shallow. You might not need it , but can add a drain before the retaining wall, taking water ro the side.

I had to check you weren't quoting me here. It was the big employer's safety officer. 1. has to be fibreglass, 2. need a mewp to tie it at the top. The latter later appeared to have happened miraculously. Must have been a passing mewp. These people gave h and s a bad name. Are they all in the bottoms of foundations? I think our one ( it was a big company you have heard of) expected a tenner to turn away, but I've never ever done that...scum.

Yes, beware the adverts in the Sun (other unreliable sources may exist) for the cheapest cover. Eg I've had roofers who were insured up to 3m, "and nobody had ever questioned it".

Very glad to hear it. I know there are good ones, and that it is a generalisation and harsh on them. But I have come across real cowboys as well as ignorant ones. They perhaps specialise in selecting the vulnerable public.

Once you've cleared the snow off it and the storm clouds have passed.

I once had the great pleasure of a spot check from hse, and an hour walking round the site with him. The scaffolding was extensive but he didn't ask for papers or tags, just took a commonsense overview. Then up at a complex bit of roof we discussed what risks there were, and maybe moving a couple of poles. Thats the norm unless there is an accident or complaint. So, as you suggest, perhaps have a close look weekly, with some photos. The main risk is likely an unofficial adjustment by a non-scaffolder.

Maybe a single ring hotplate and a pan is the better way. And a battery.

...know or care much about roof and quality. I think it is because it is up high and scary. They get the job because they will do it. Their work often goes unchecked. I had one who didn't even know how to lap felt.

I was shocked when I moved to England and found that timber sarking is not required. I used it on a garage anyway, to the surprise of the bco.

It's a good morning for lessons from Prof. @ProDave. If we wanted the generator just for hunkering down in a corner for a couple of days, then what size of genny would suffice? Freezer, kettle, a few lights, battery chargers, tele, maybe an air fryer can cook everything. Not all on at once. Does a running genny need a minimum load?

My logic is this. The timber is for aesthetics purposes only, and is a luxury that will have costs. The ceiling above it should be constructed to provide whatever performance for fire, sound and heat loss is required. Plasterboard finish if internal, but it doesn't need jointing so is cheap. You may want a black paint on the pb for shadow gaps. It may not be a requirement but I think an intumescent varnish may be prudent, for spread of flame, not as a barrier. If there is no likely source of a fire and it is not above a fire escape route, then don't worry about it, but a cooker beneath would preheat the wood then a fat fire could light it. Timber on walls and ceilings can burn very fast.