saveasteading

There nothing wrong with having GCNs. They are a reptile that happens to be rare in some areas. Planners tend not to be aware of the easy remedies. Some consultants take advantage. Don't make them rarer by filling a pond of other habitats. Don't endanger them in any other way. I've dealt with them only twice. You may take confidence or otherwise. 1. A city Council which had a policy that most GCNs were in a pond in certain months. That was the only time to clear the site for construction. No other constraints. 2. I engaged a pragmatic consultant to give an overview of any likely constraints for a new client. He said that 70% there would be GCNs. So we had a choice..spend thousands to find if there were, and again to catch them and relocate them. OR assume they are there and only do work as in 1. OR in that case keep mowing the grass. That was accepted, I think with some reluctance. So it depends on your council.

Also generally for signs of dampness. Are any areas of timber darker, or damp or mouldy? Feel the floor too, which is probably fibre-glass. Do that from ridge to eaves as water can run all the way til something makes it drip.

More that the roofer fancies an easy life at the client's expense? A roofer who doesn't like heights? Many tradespeople have become a little precious. The plumber who won't drill a hole. I'd say find a roofer who quotes the whole job including access. That takes away the risks of 1. overkill, 2 you taking safety responsibility. They really should have a few access tools of their own if that is really what they specialise in. @WalterB When you do choose a roofer, insist that they take a picture of the problem close up, before, during (with failed mortar raked out and the area prepped) and after.

And the main thing is...most builders would happily use cheap harcore, poorly compacted and full of voids, then covered with a load of sand, some of which will gradually disappear into the voids. So any spec is better than that. As I said above, I'm used to designing and building for slabs with forklifts and racking. That fails if badly done. For houses the worst load is a sofa or the grand piano. Observation of new mass house building shows me that they get away with a lot.

yes, do it now. They might suddenly be able to do it tomorrow, if the door is a stock item. Or you agree to hold that sum too. And pay the rest.

Interesting. My logic is entirely the opposite. The building catches and disperses the rain landing on it, so no rain hits the ground under it. Water outside may run towards the building. Solid stone under the floor keeps water out , whereas an open texture encourages it in. A solid base of type 1 (or type 2) and just enough sand to smooth the last few mm will not allow any water to flow in and under the slab. A no-fines sub-base will allow, even encourage, water to flow right under the building, especially with the perimeter drain catching the rain and loading the open sub-base. Type 1 is close to being solid rock so there is absolutely no water flow horizontally through it, and negligible dampness within it. Single sized aggregate has about 1/4 void, which will fill with water, if the source is provided. Of course I agree with the gravel drain all around, and would want it to be provided with a ready outlet away from the building. In reality, the xps is thick and heat transfer beneath it will be tiny, so I dont think it is a problem, but even less with a dense and solid base. On the other hand, type 1 is a pig to handle and to lay, needing a whacker,especially around the perimeter. It is very much easier to lay no-fines or low-fines aggregate, and it barely needs compacting. And a thick layer of sand means that level control is easier. So perhaps that is the main advantage on a house sized project.

I agree. Perhaps I'm wrongly assuming that they aren't talking.

More drone films please. Is the timber placed for level control? Or is it a very long tamp? I'm not a fan of 50mm sand, but that's from a life with commercial slabs. Flat and level enough and reasonably compacted, is probably fine when the next layer is xps. Why is that please? It's all going to have a building over it.

It doesn't sound as if you get on well with them. It shouldn't be a win/ lose situation. You are not bargaining, you are being fair and reasonable. But if that's the way you or they see it, then trust may not be an option. My advice stands, but to your message add that you have proof they damaged the door. If you never see them again, you have the money for the works remaining. Is that for the best?

You withold the plumbing fund, as it is not done. You withold the kitchen repair value. You withold any other sums appropriate to odds and ends (snagging) unless there is a retention sum in the contract. You pay the rest, assuming completely happy. You tell them in writing that you are paying x and witholding y and z, and why. It's common for a business to invoice immediately. Ie might not be a try-on. It's standard for customers to agree and pay with appropriate money held back. In writing, courteously but firmly.

So I'm still learning. How have I not known about these? Is this batching supposed to be more efficient?

Isn't it always full? Whatever goes in one end, the same comes out of the other? @RossMcO it's right to ask the questions. But stop worrying. Any of the big makes will do the job for a full house. You only have to decide if you risk turning the air pump off when nobody is there. I would. Nothing will get worse and no liquid will come out. The only risk is of the crust hardening a bit....or maybe the pump forgetting how to work put it on a timer? Nobody will die and the kit will still work. I've only ever used Marsh products. I'm sure our clients don't look after them and they keep working. The old ones didn't even have air pumps, if I remember correctly.

The building inspector is not responsible. They do spot checks not supervision. The builder may still have liability. Check the contract. If KS now want a concrete surround, then that sounds as if these tanks are now known to need it. Their inspection is not going to be independent.

I've seen such a costing. It measured the main elements and put a £/m2 against them. That's what I would do too. Floor 200m2 x £60 Aluminium Windows 40m2 x £600 Etc Site setup sum £20004site managemrnt 40 weeks x £1200 And so on. The big unkown is what a builder adds to that for overheads and profit. Included or plus 20% or 40%. And risk...who owns it? A local might know the current marketplace better than someone far away. There are published multipliers for location but that's approximate. As a contractor quoting, these rates are all worked out much more precisely. A QS preparing a formsl document might have 3 times as many items for the same project.

It has about 2m3 in it, underground so will not dry out significantly in a year. Close all indoors plugs to keep the u bends wet and avoid smells. For tiny use, i'd be inclined to install a blower type, and never get round to putting the power in, maybe run a cable in the trench for later. It will work away in its own time.

Yes you might get technically too much heat gain. You have to find a way of passing reg's. In real life you find out if it is a problem and deal with it. We put big thick curtains in for the winter and they work for the summer. We fitted them to reach floor and ceiling, to keep the heat in that closed pocket.

That's all I've ever used. No careful management. The final effluent always looked and smelled completely clean, tho I never tested it. I don't think unuse matters..the contents will fester slowly until your return. Neither will it need much maintenance. Just allow for a sucklift every few years and a change of air pump when necessary.

I don't know, but my vague understanding is that it is one thing or the other. Different bugs are doing the job if it is aerated or not. If the air was turned off, the dominant bugs would eventually change, but not suit that machine ideally.

@Drellingore I was sending a private message but it is blocked. Understandable.

You omit ignorance. Architects don't usually understand cost. I've done many a project where the best quotation was way higher than budget, double even. We were then recommended by one of our previous clients, and given the brief to make it work. The usual problem was a linear process of design with nobody questioning it until the horror quotes came in. Our answer was 'all experts in the room' before it even starts. so you bounce off each other to get the optimum. It can be too late once the design has planning approval. But to agree with your cynical/ realistic assertion. One Architect told me that 'the client will always find more money'. I declined to be involved. It may be deliberately conservative. Its the worst that could happen if you just say to carry on and have no involvement. Yes I'd consider sacking and/or suing. they want a %, and it's of a higher figure. They have some extra cost in insurance, but not twice the work. In fact if they hand it over to an expert builder, they will do a lot of the detail work or not tneed the drawings.. Yes. Or I should say the client has , to us as design and build contractor. If the Architect was ok, just not very good, he could stay in some capacity for the client. Usually I insisted they were paid off and not remotely involved. The advice above is good. NB I have not looked at your design yet. Tell them in writing that the doubling of cost is not acceptable, and to stop work immediately and that you will have a meeting when you have considered your options.

It seems to be an old-fashioned septic and settlement tank, which will do 90% of the work, followed by the filter chamber. That should work nicely £3,800 inc vat for a 10 person is not a bargain. The downsides? The outlet appears to be 2m deep or so, which will limit options and add to drain cost. OR it has a pump, so the avoidance of mechanics is lost. If anyone was to put bleach or wash out paint brushes etc into the drains, , I think it wold cause more damage in this than in an air mixed tank.....but that's just a feeling. If it gets heavy use on occasions will it cope? I think so as the solids stay in tank 1. How do you change the filter medium bags? will they still be available in 10 years? Maybe they could be washed out.

I don't know the product but am interested enough that i will look into it for future reference. Have they explained their logic? I wouldn't (ahem) poh-pooh it until checked out. It is all using natural bugs to eat the poo. one method adds air bubbles to keep it moving and oxygenated. the other i assume uses the principle of enormous areas of surface for it to cling to while eaten. That logic is good. for many (15+) years I dispensed with oil interceptors on car parks and instead used natural drainage through lots of gravel. It worked really well and has next to no maintenance or running cost. The analogy is quite close.

It was once the default and became the term for a digester. like having a Hoover. Their marketing and technical advice helped a lot too. But that was a long time ago, It is rather a bad habit to use the term generically these days. I can only assume that an professional using the term without a model number etc, isn't up to speed.

All talking stud I think. Nobody talking blocks ot any word like that. You've made me think though. A metal stud wall might be so weak that it crushes under any load from the floor above and doesn't transfer it to the screed and the insulation supporting it. That doesn't seem proper though as there then wouldn't be a seal at the head.

Whether you could is dealt with above. Whether you should? It is taking a risk regarding approvals and any changes during construction. It will be a 2m to3m deep hole so it's maybe better to wait, and a bigger digger can hoist in the tank and hold it safely while you shovel gravel around. PLUS it might be in the way, if you are tight for working space, and damaging it would be awful. That goes for the pipes too, as you will surely be driving machines around the building.