saveasteading

Thanks but the plumbing is working fine, it's the lever that came loose. I may need a new screw if the thread is damaged, and /or or have to glue it back on.

That would be tidier but not a statement. You don't know where my smaller molegrips are do you? The fixing screw was loose but won't tighten again. It's all soaking in vinegar to lose the lime crud...not a problem you get in N Highland. I'm told the very nice sink came with the tap for a very cheap cost..much the same as a branded tap would cost on its own.

The kitchen tap broke last night. Q. Must be fixed today. How long will it take? A. Between 10 minutes and 3 days depending on where the mechanism has broken and what shops are open and have stocks. 20 minutes later it is solved with a new lever. I think this qualifies as Art as well as plumbing.

Yes, spell it out. Bullet points make it easier to read and absorb.

Their official email address will be public knowledge. An easy cut and paste from the above. The parish council are an advisory role only. The district Councillor has clout.

I understand that multiple electric car chargers can also sort themselves out in some way.

Planning officers aren't always great at technical stuff, even such as whether something fits. And they tend to leave traffic stuff to the highways dept.....who only care about main road safety. If in any doubt, send them accurate and annototed sketches showing why it doesn't work. Some planners arrogantly ignore the parish council. If you can get your borough/ district councillor to back you then the planners have to respond (officers report to elected representatives.)

You need someone with more experience then. Do you have a schedule of the power needs? Ask for it. You don't just add it all up. I think the term is divergence, for not all toasters, hairdyers etc being on at the same time.

OK thanks team. I'm having a few days off the subject, with family visiting I have other priorities and don't want any unforeseen consequences of a job half done. I'll still be dealing with other people's problems on BH which is much easier.

I think we know the answer. A gutter and dp to a recognised design and properly installed will not overflow. An old one might, because of recent changes in rainfall. This one is sortable but needs some technical skill. @Paene Finitur can we have your thoughts and response to whats above? The answer is probably in there. It's OK to acknowledge and say , let's have a few days off the subject.

We wanted 3 phase because it was adjacent. £40k upgrade. Fortunately someone explained that the existing transformer provided plenty. That is for a big house, all electric. That probably applies in this case.

OK that is normal. The project has gone for costing and been costed and sent to you. That person doesn't assess whether the installation would then, or may perhaps, be used to supply other customers. You must assess the likelihood of this and ask them to charge you only a proportion. A different party will decide. Is it likely? If not, then it will be all your cost. I've done this successfully for a 200k transformer, which very clearly was oversized and would be used again....and it was. But I think we engaged a specialist.

My thoughts, additional to the good advice above. Usually rain is fairly vertical and not severe. The water will run nicely down the slope and not go in. In very severe storms and especially with wind, it might drive up between the tiles, but it is unlikely as the overlap is considerable. Then there is the membrane to catch it. We cannot know if the membrane is intact and lapped properly. The eaves and gutter is a mess. For now I would cut out an overflow from the stop end so that any extreme flow can escape...into a butt perhaps. An additional downpipe may solve it. More on that if requested. It is a plastic gutter. They often distort. Can you check if it is in a straight line or twisted....the lowest point will shed water, perhaps inwards. Is the gutter on a slope downwards to the pipe? Downpipes work very much better with flow from 2 sides. You have the additional pipe shedding onto this roof....lots of water at the wrong end from the downpipe. PLUS the flashings are random here....extend the lead fiwn to the gutter and complete the longitudinal flashing. LABC would say that this was built incomptetently and they don't cover that.....unless they had checked it....had they?

Vents up the chimney via a slinky duct? Then you can pack around it.

Ahhh...most chimneys have redundant fireplaces....I made a rather huge assumption.

No. But a polythene bag stuffed with fibreglass will stop your heat disappearing up, and also mute the noise coming down.

Yes, you need to weed it and remove dead things, and infill dead areas. The loading from wet moss isn't significant, unless with gravel , but it is from turf which will develop. The roof membrane is a different spec to resist roots, but I recall that it is not UV proof so there is a lap. I did a calculation once to prove to planners that a green roof was not the optimum for sustainability. The effect of the load on the steel building added tons of steel and concrete. Plus it kept water back from the rainwater harvester. And then there is safety and access.

Poly Iso Rate Not logical

From my observation of stick build in the Highlands, it was very quick and good value. It's what they did, and was second nature. There was no factory element just a stack of 4 x 2, another of osb and some glulam for the ridge and hips. I wouldn't expect that in SE England though. And the reverse applies for brick and block.

I'm going shopping apparently. I'll read all that clever stuff later....thanks all.

Yes that's the plan. I was hoping for such an obvious bit of damage so it's good news. I need advice now on an acceptable way of patching in a repair, eg the boxes. They seem appropriate to me as I can fix them to the joist to avoid any trailing cable. I did, including after the visitors left, taking multiple chargers with them.

I'm down this way, nearly France, but electricicles behave the same. Good reminder. It was Wagos that the electrician didn't like. I had done cabling on another daughters old house and asked him to do the final connections but he replaced them all. I will take advice from @ProDaveor other experts if they would please advise.

I'm hoping that someone is going to say, yes that's obviously causing the issue. Or otherwise. And why this shorts when only one core seems to be damaged. Then I'm thinking I replace that portion of cable, preferably without taking down the lamp fitting because....it all makes work.... Can I sensibly cut out 1m and join with a box or a connector each end? I know one electrician who refuses to use sometimes, especially the push fit type.

I've done it. I fought through the cobwebs like Prince Charming, but the good news is the absence of clutter in that remote corner. There is rodent damage. Also a strange brown crud on the cables there. on the first photo we see both the lamp and switch cables. They run to a large connection box. The black wire is exposed over about 30mm but does not look to be nibbled itself. There are some more mouse nibbles near, to the left, but very shallow. I actually see more clearly on the photo than I could up close, but should have snapped it further back to get the focus better. The near, out of focus, bit looks worse than it did in real time. I'm thinking the brown stain might be wood resin dripping from above, perhaps in summer heat or from occasional leaks. Thus attracting nibbling. Then that water now gets into the cable? There was no sign of dampness but it has been very wet and windy and this is under the ridge and one drop might do it....or some of that resin has built up inside. I'd have thought that I'd have to see copper for any short but I don't know. No dead things. Lots of historic mouse (and some rat) droppings But the second dose of bait is untouched so there weren't many around. I didn't look in the connection box. Well, I lifted a loose corner and nothing was apparent. The cables simply drop through the lath and plaster ceiling. Nothing dead visible in the holes. The grey cables are long redundant. I'm guessing and welcome any expert or other input.

I just want to emphasise that. The people that sell them tell outrageous lies about them. Think of them on yachts. There is always a brisk breeze and they can only trickle charge a battery and run a few lights. Inland the wind is many factors less. Nobody fits them on high office block roofs any longer, even to tick a sustainability box. I'm remembering construction exhibitions 20 years ago where there would be ten stands with the things, and Architects started specifying them. I refused to price them into jobs and it was an awkward argument. All these companies have gone. Solar and very big batteries ok, esp if you design the building for minimal demand. But if it's £20k for mains, take it.