saveasteading

No. It can spur off before it goes under the house. Take the chance to put stopcocks in all directions.

I don't understand fuses. This one can trip at one of 2 places. I might send photos tomorrow. Before we had these 'improved' boxes installed ( I can't work on your house until they are changed") we had the old wire ones and they seemed to battle through the minor issues.

If my logic is correct, the switch is simply a local circuit coming down from a rose ( or similar) above the light cable. If the switch is throwing a fuse, then the fault is in the cable over that short distance. Hopefully an exposed bit of it. Thus I'm thinking it must be an issue at the connection above the light or the cable from there to the switch. (why would this happen after 20 years? and I haven't been near it to trip on it.) Or a critter , again they don't seem to have been interested in the plentiful cabling over all these years. Maybe it would be simpler to disconnect at the light connection and see if the tripping stops. could circuit test from there too. I am always nervous with live cables so would rather only test an isolated circuit. I don't know if it's feasible to test within the switch box. It looks like an unpleasant crawl through the attic is beckoning.

Correct. The strength of a single skin is much less than half of the double skin. It would need temporary support during the work. THe support gets in the way. You would not live in the house while this was happening, and should move heavy furniture out. A new outer skin could be tied using brackets screwed to the inner wall: that is the least of your issues. It's not only structure though. Do not ignore the detailing at the foundation ( does the widened wall fit on it still?) Or at the roof. How does this new outer face line work with the current eave and gutter...you probably have to extend the roof at eaves and gable.? And at doors and windows? I wouldn't dream of doing this. Not with my house and my money anyway.

One light circuit is tripping the system. What to look for? I have narrowed down the area of the problem through gradually switching on more fuses. and then trying one light switch at a time. Tried taking the light bulb out on the grounds of wishful thinking. It is a single ceiling bulb, with a simple one-way switch. What should I do next? My hunch is that mice have gnawed a cable in the attic, because we can hear them up there. In a way that would be good news as it may be simple to resolve too. On the other hand, there are may reels worth of exposed cabling up there, and this hasn't happened before. Or is the pendulum cable connection the first thing to check? Do wall switches malfunction? .....or what else?

It is fragile if abused, otherwise will withstand normal conditions and the holes are tiny so nothing gets through. I think it is best cut with strong scissors that don't have to go back in the kitchen drawer. The cut edge had best be folded back under or it may fray.

It is guidance not a rule. Spread the drains all over and some relaxation should be OK.

Was that previously a railway bridge. What a lot of bolts...but I like it. Is it/ Does it need to be fire protected? It's almost heavy enough that it doesn't but not a lot of people know that.

That's the way. Before the houses were built, the land was rained upon and it went away, presumably. You can spread over the whole garden if you like, using French drains. The 5m rule is there for a reason, to prevent the house being undermined. Therefore it would be advisable to connect both houses into the new system and leave the old soakaway alone. In case the drains don't cope in extreme conditions, there ca be an overflow into a pond or a crated tank. This will hold the eater until it can get away. Do discuss it with the bco before starting. You might need to prove the efficacy and need some professional help on it, as the bco has to consider what happens to your and oth properties if it doesn't drain.

Good news. Standard `construction. Strip footings and beam & block, I would think.

Agreed IF it is big enough. A newsworthy downpour's worth plus. And not near a building I don't understand the question though. Are you building or have you sold the site? Who decided to build so close to the soakaway? Where is the new building rainwater to go? The bco will be involved at some stage. With more info we can help.

If you built a new soakaway the maximum distance from any other buildings, how far would that be?

Wrong forum! We are all cynics and miserable.

I've even shown utility companies mains services they didn't know were there. Not on any drawing. It's seldom a good deal to buy a house in order to build an extension, unless you are a builder. It's done to avoid moving usually, and the increase in value is usually less than the cost......and then there is the disruption and, in your case, the risk

My understanding is that the contract is reciprocal , but the reality is that the SE imports and never exports.

This means flooding from tivers etc. That doesn't look to be a problem Low to moderate says the same. How close troubles you?

That's a lintel. Ready-made at b and q ir any builders merchant. But home made will fit perfectly and be satisfying. If you keep the concrete on the dry side, it can be forced up under an existing frame. Don't use oil. Either remove your timber formers after a couple of hours, or put a polythene face on it.

It is as you surmised. A councillor can require it to be removed from a delegated decision, to being put before the councillors of the planning committee. so you have to convince your councillor or, very unlikely, the councillor for another ward. I have seen that . It was where a councillor was pushing a vote towards something that was contrary to fundamental policy, so guaranteed to be appealed against. I expect there are party lines too, at the bigger councils.

On which general subject of materials science, may I recommend this week's "Infinite Monkey Cage" on Radio 4, on the subject of elasticity, ductility etc. Some proper nerdy information from top experts, and entertaining with it.

If it is a small shallow drain only serving the adjacent house then it's relatively easy and cheap to move. If big or deep that won't be the case. Don't assume you will ever get permission. You need the neighbours' blessing too. Allow £10k to £20 for a simple diversionbpkus you will/ may need professional help with permissions. More if not simple.

Breathable. Overlapped. Stapled to the timber. No tape.

The walls are damp. Not very and the tendency is outwards but they are not dry. The pir is non continuous at the studs and the studs are exposed unless you put this vapour barrier backing on. The polythene is on the inside. Thats great. We are trying to keep it that way. When you start insulating the place you will decrease the heat needed, and the current costly drying of the walls.

By the back do you mean facing the exterior wall Yes. So you have the damp masonry, then an air gap, then the membrane protecting the stud and holding the insulation.

The vapour barrier goes on the back of the stud and holds it all in place. We went for 50mm pir because 100 is difficult to push in precisely and leaves gaps. But squirty foam is banned by me. The gaps should be tiny closed pockets and mot too much heat loss. Don't be tempted to cut the pir well short for ease and foam it all....I've read this is the norm by some builders for their convenience. 50mm fits pir well enough with small air gaps. The 50mm rockwool squeezes in over the pir and covers the gaps. Half as good insulation but a decent compromise. Re the wall profile, that's as I predicted above, based on ours. You don't have to make it all the same thickness eg if one smsll area of stone is sticking out, it's ok to bridge past it in smaller stud, to keep more room area.

Agreed. The proper term is dormer BTW albeit pronounced dorma in some parts where r is silent.