saveasteading

Yes. Covers window, minimises fresh air intake (even more so when vehicles park there), difficult to clean or service. If the bracing was hit by a vehicle.....? I met the supposed expert who was sent by the tenant to justify that and other stuff. He installed it....a fitter really , who should not specify or design, and he assured me it was fine. It is going to be relocated but not by his business. And people say I should trust specialists?

On the other hand, it is better than tucking it away too tightly enclosed. Here is an example of why I don't trust most supposed expert installers in this subject. Retrofitted by the tenant for a new server room in that room. Location useless for efficiency obviously, but also that the rear intakes are jammed tight with leaves. But it's tidy.

@CemCet has prepared a survey about self-building as part of a degree course. I just did it and it was much more relevant than the average, as most questions made sense and were relevant. I don't know Cem and leave it to you to decide whether to get involved or not. If so, i suggest a private message to @CemCetis best, and not to me please! My name is Cem, and I am a PhD researcher at the University of Nottingham, focusing on self-build housing. My research explores the motivations, challenges, and experiences of individuals who are interested in self-build and self-build owners across the UK.

Seriously now, as @Pocster would expect. I asked a Fire Professor how vulnerable the gaps were in single skin boarding, and he said that fire does not get through there, even if unfilled. * Sound is different, obviously, but usually less dangerous. You could even argue that the resulting tiny gap acts as a sound absorbing resonating tube. Just sheet over it. At the perimeter though, fill any gap, as you have both sheets with gaps coinciding. *There were other reasons, now I think more, but this will justify it if you are questioned.

I think you would be the first. I wouldn't.

There were 3 chamber systems before air or a wheel was added. They work, but not so well. What comes out with the liquid, if not completely clean, is a grey silt. It will then coat the surfaces in the soakaway and eventually just about disappear. As I said earlier, it will take a few years until it needs emptying. I think few people do it annually.

I hadn't heard of this. So have looked it up. Is it the "simpler" version that is a trolley then has carterpillar tracks for stairs? I dont suppose it goes up a loft ladder though?

It would take careful timing to have more than one flush at the same time, and it wouldnt usually matter anyway. But it must all be roddable, just in case. Also becsuse people sometimes flush things they shouldn't. Following building regulations is best and you'd need yo be expert to do ut an alternative way.

Wine doesn't trouble our oak, but water and aluminium does. Chemistry and worn areas of tung oil. But now I have the stuff that removes the marks, albeit many applications sometimes.

I'd venture that this depends on the bco confidence in you and your designers. In any case, there is a risk of non- optimal design if you don't have a complete design strategy at the outset.

Old felt roofs used to melt in the summer sun. The chippings reflected and absorbed energy, and physically protected it against feet. It used to be sold with a tiny grip already on it,and that would suffice for a shed. But on a flat roof tiny chippings were spread ...I think onto a bitumen sticky layer. I think modern felts don't melt.

I went into Howdens. They have it in 1 litre packs. it does 15m2 and needs to be used within 3 days of mixing. £25. They had a small sample worktop and it looked good. Rather glossy though, so doesn't feel as rustic as with the oil. I wonder if this is more for speed and convenience, especially of the fitter, than for beauty. We may try it on our chopping board, which is made from an offcut.

They say it on Radio 4 so you can too. I was listening to a bit from the Humph days and it was just as splutter-making rude.

I think things are improving, but plumbers can be a little precious in the SE, and want somebody else to do anything that isn't pipes. You have to watch out for them wanting 2 visits. I could do this all , with some clumsiness, in about 4 hours with the right kit all to hand. The wall repair is just filler and is hard in an hour, then you might paint it (or not). 1 hour to remove the rad 1 hour fix the wall and fit the brackets 1 hour fit the rad half day: £150. parts £20. £170 .. add for overheads and add vat... £250????? (x london money = £400.)

I have installed 3 Marsh units with air bubbles , like a fish tank. No feedback at all so sounds ok. I have elsewhere a 3 compartment installation with no mechanics at all. It smells a little on occasions. I have had it 20 years and have never had it cleaned....because why? And right here I have a 1920's brick chamber with no mechanics and no baffles: just a manhole with pipes positioned to allow floating and separation. There is no smell off it, but the liquor coming out of it to a soakaway is rather grey and unpleasant.... but not brown. I had it cleaned after 15 years of our use and who knows how long before. There was 100mm of brown crust floating (no smell) and 200mm of grey slurry at the bottom. Ive had another 10 years use since then and no smells occur. I'm saying: don't panic, it is going to do 90% of the work over 3 the chambers, and the stirring or bubbles will do the rest. Most are overspecified anyway (ie on house maximum population). So I'd suggest a timer that runs it for an hour a day. But I'm guessing. The most important thing is not to put bleach etc down it (or minimise toilet cleaner blue stuff). And the other most important thing is where it goes next? Into a rural soakaway and it will be ok. In a small garden perhaps not. Into a stream, definitely not: keep the power on. If it is a recent installation you should have a testing chamber. So you could try 'before and after' tests and report back.

Do you like the word though? It's a lovely word. and what is the better alternative? My other source of vocabulary is 'I'm Sorry I Haven't a Clue'. this week's: Fauna: a bit more beige.

I've said this many times on here. You don't pay the bco to be your project manager. They do spot checks, more for society than for you. Imagine what they would charge you otherwise. You must have supervision and expertise, whomsoever from.

We are about to remove the Tung oil for the second time. Very tedious. Then we can get rid of the black rings from water or aluminium implements, where the oil was eroded. I didn't know about this varnish. Perhaps it is newish?. I should look into it.

I know this! A builder friend inherited a plot and built a wooden house with all the timber from whatever florida's b & q is called. The standard was simply that they had to use a local builder within their team of builder mates from the uk. 4 x 2 and 6 x 2 mostly. The building bends with the winds due to being smallish sections and just nailed together. On stilts too so the lashing surf runs underneath. No bco just someone from the Town Hall. Structurally sensible. Fire would be another matter. BTW I did some crazy-paving sea steps (there is only so much sunbathing and lobster eating I can tolerate) that have withstood many storms...should be on my cv. @Boybluewhh are you asking about beam and block, if you can get it? Going to start a factory? NB the reinforcement is tensioned wires not just bars.

You are being a sensible, pragmatic researcher. Membranes, insulation, and service voids are great but must be used properly. I'd venture that the "back to nature" methods are the ones to be cautious about. Nature has no idea of house building.

Not exactly so.

I did that recently. I 'just' leaned on it to help me up. The removal and reconnecting of the plumbing is more work than the fixing. Are you planning to do this yourself or get a handyman in?

As a potential customer for sunamp, I won't be any longer. If I was them I'd be looking for a resolution to be published here not a tale of woe. Google finds these posts. Problems with sunamp, or sunamps customer service resolved it ????

I gather that building materials come from USA and are expensive. Beam and block included?

OK it is compromise of a job, but I wouldn't use bubble wrap. It will barely help insulation and your concern about it crushing unevenly is valid.