saveasteading

Have used it for exactly this reason, in school corridors etc, and it certainly works. Of course boarding used behind wc fittings etc. But normal use doesn't need it, or benefit. In fact the board can stress the all a bit and bend studs, especially metal ones.

From experience, please be sure you understand the principle of how laser (or other )levelling works before going this direction. It isn't a concept that everyone easily grasps. As you putting this in to tie in with an existing upper floor, there may be a better solution.

Not necessarily. Precast stairs have to be craned in (or forklift) so needs access. (roof off). Also' like any product, they can have errors of dimensions or brackets but are not easy to adapt. And, unless things have changed, they come in standard sizes so you may end up with a slope on the treads. This is from experience of a flight not filling the space available, requiring a pause, conversations and site works, and a return of the crane. But strong and silent once in place. OR cast on site, so effectively a temporary timber stair as a shutter. Double the cost of oak, treble the cost of pine.

I therefore withdraw my last comment. Checking the instructions sounds like the crucial thing. flammable materials to be kept apart by xxxmm. Looking into this for myself I find that steel tube comes in an amazing variety of sizes...perhaps a local stockholder has a small piece for your link. Ahh but if it is all out of sight, what is wrong with the aluminium slinky pipe.

Has this subject come up because you feel you need to appease the planners, or because you really want it yourself? I can't recall any planning permission being approved/rejected solely because of 'eco-design'. It is always more eco-friendly not to build at all. It could feasibly swing a marginal decision I suppose, but at great expense, and limiting the design options. You are also right that straw/ hemp/ lime are things that appeal, because they sound natural, and hence could appeal to non-experts such as councillors and planners (who are not technical people). Hence if you want to go with straw, the pitch is easy. If you don't want to go with straw then you sell whatever you do choose on its merits. That takes knowledge, research and presentation skill , but it is interesting, satisfying, and helps you tweak your project even more to practical and realistic carbon reduction. 'Use less stuff' is my mantra, but not much understood by the professions. Also build in that an efficiently built building that is in use and has adapted to changing lifestyles after 100 years is a success, and more sustainable than one made of trendy materials that lasts 50 years.

No, especially as it will be very warm. Every year I bring the boxes of decorations down from the attic and the duct tape has come loose. attic temperatures +30 to -5? Even if it worked, it won't look good to anybody peeking behind. But what about plastic connected to the metal of the stove? Bringing in cold air obviously, but are there any instructions about the proximity of plastic? Intuitively I don't think plastic within 200mm is safe. The kits include aluminium flexy tube but it is ugly. I am really surprised that the stove suppliers don't offer a steel tube for the transition. A piece of metal tube 80mm, and that connector from Conor would be ideal. In the short term, won't the air flow freely from the pipe to the back of the stove?

Can be very different to here. The challenge with the British climate is dampness. All year, never drying out dampness, never hot nor cold enough to kill the bugs off, so that rots and moulds can thrive. That would be my worry re straw. And do any farmers use straw buildings to protect even their tractors? I don't say don't, and I realise I seem very negative, but I would want evidence of a long-term success in UK climate. Watch out for the Ayrshire cows eating your house. As ProDave says, the planners don't care: it is not in their remit. As I say, there are other ways to do sustainable construction, without gimmicks. Cement is bad, yes I know, but use lime in ground improvement and masonry. Use reclaimed materials. Most of all, use a good designer, yourself included, who does not give you cautious designs using more material than is necessary. Basically use less stuff, by efficient design. Timber building with timber cladding and timber fibre insulation? Fleece insulation if you can afford it. On lime improved ground, with locally reclaimed aggregates, and lime instead of concrete where you can? All drainage to soakaway. ASHP and solar. And keep us informed please.

Neither do I. I don't rate it actually and I study every method with an open mind. It is a very big deal to build a house, and the risks are huge when you depart from the norms. For one thing there is unlikely to be a builder locally who has done this. And for a second thing, the interfaces seem to be clunky. However, if you have seen successful finished houses (perhaps 10 years on for the effect of weather and creatures) then I will bow to your greater knowledge. Are there any 50 years old to completely dispel my doubts?

I recommend chatting to one or more local Structural/Civil Engineers. They will probably get your site up on the pc while you talk. Being on their patch, they will 95% know what they are going to find even before digging any holes, and how that affects construction, drainage etc. They are also more likely to request a couple of simple holes rather than expensive boreholes (subject to what they expect of course), than someone less expert or less local. You will also get to meet at least one of them while the hole is dug , get some free advice on the site, and see if you like their attitude. Get a quote from them first of course, after discussing what they will want to do.

On which: Sometimes the cheapest silicones will do the job, and you would wonder why the big names are so expensive. But sometimes it can be poor. I wouldn't even assume that one 'own brand' or budget purchase was the same as the next as the retailers probably shop around to the cheapest manufacturer, then use the same name. eg Stickslike say £8 Gripfill at say £3 No nonsense £2 The latter is possibly better for a skirting to plaster because it is thin and runny, and sits tight. (Gripfill a bit lumpy.) But useless for timber to masonry...because it is thin and runny. Silicone the same, as the cheaper stuff will sometimes fil a gap, but often need a second application.

They are both said not to shrink, which matters in this scenario. Assuming that one tube will suffice, this probably isn't the time to try the budget options.

Energy in equals energy out. So what is the difference? I shall try. In no particular order. I don't think they are (can be) more or less efficient, but behave differently. With pug the material absorbs heat before heating the room, so there is more energy stored in the room. When the door or window opens, the warm air escapes from both scenarios, but the warmed floor remains. When the heat source is off, the pug continues to warm feet and lower body, and the room. The pug allows the system to run at lower input temperatures/ offpeak for longer, perhaps with the feed at the lowest and most efficient, temperature. I look forward to any conflicting or additional thoughts.

What a fun discussion. I should clarify that I am in favour of interesting places and spaces. How dull it would be if all buildings were entirely designed as weatherproof with no other function. My point though is that no building should leak or rot. If an Architect does not have the skills to ensure this then it should still be their responsibility to engage someone who does. And they should take responsibility for failure, as the Engineers and contractors more often do. I am well aware that some architecture graduates have not been exposed to practical design and are even told that it is not their responsibility. (Ditto costs). Other uni's encourage mixing with engineers and are expected to at least consider practicality. On holiday I go to see Engineering marvels and Architectural triumphs. Most of them are very attractive and also very old. Some are more modern, and many of these have had issues. Somewhere I have a newspaper cutting from an architectural journalist bemoaning the demolition of a modern church in Glasgow. It always leaked, then it rotted, and it was not much used. Just before some lobby had it listed as a very special building, the Church authority demolished it. Well done them say I for the final solution, but not for accepting a failed building in the first place. But to the journalist, the building (and similarly a seminary not so far away) the building was a triumph, and somebody should keep and maintain it. I really can't see how they can suggest that, but perhaps someone can explain that mindset. Maxdavie, I think we are all with you on your project. Innovation is great, and so are proven techniques. I'm happy to keep looking at it with you, and I feel we have just begun.

A good point. And big knots and shakes too. One of the plus points of Wickes, as long as someone hasn't already taken the good bits. There is often more out the back. I once went into Travis to do exactly that, and the supervisor complained that we were taking all the best bits. In fact we took it nearly all, including a 2x2 that rotated 90 degrees in its 3.6 length. Then he complained that he had no saleable wood left if anyone wanted any. Straight wood is good. It grows straightest in very cold places like Siberia and Finland. Siberia is a no-no of course.

Thanks, a non-industry daughter recommended Inkscape and she can certainly draw beams etc on it in good 2d. I tried and it seems to be more for graphics than building...but that will be me.

The last time I tried it I found that I was not highly capable though. Perhaps Sketchup is now more intuitive.... (had no instructions, it just assumed we learned as we went....I didn't, and didn't need to either).

Nice drawing btw. What did you do it on? I need to start using a computer drawing suite as have had a life of giving sketches to others to draw up.

So 75mm quilt, squeezed to 50 (or as final detail) at the studs? Otherwise it becomes a very thick wall, which may not be an issue if the rooms are big. Attention to detail is important, as sound leaks through gaps significantly. Sound 'pours' through any significant gaps, so the quilt needs to be tight to all interfaces.

I should add that it withstands 5 -a side football in real life. The stud doesn't have the same strength when sideways on, but plenty, (the plasterboard will fail before the timber) you won't need noggins, and you have room to Z the insulation through.

Not saying I could prove it structurally, but I have used CLS placed the other way (wide face to the room) and it worked really well.) Used it as a sports hall liner 2.1m high with no noggins and one face of MDF. It moved very slightly when our 15 stone tester shouldered it.. So it should work in a house without noggins. It also makes the board fixing very easy with such a wide surface.

Yes, this is important. Would 50mm studs work and allow more insulation to run past without over compression? 50mm insulation roll wiggled through the length of the wall. Also: the noggin shown is linking the 2 faces , so defeating the object of the two separate surfaces. You have shown a slight gap which is clever, but if you bang on one side then the noise will still reverberate through the noggin to the other face. (I have done this myself recently without full thought, so thanks for bringing it up. It is a a compromise but I suggest using a 50mm noggin on one side, ie not touching the other face of board, or with your idea but leaving a bigger gap on both sides. What are noggins for anyway? This is not a structural wall so they are only to keep the studs vertical, and perhaps could be removed once a face of board is in place, or use osb one side before the plasterboard..

I being a Philistine, would simplify this massively. The raft foundation seems excessive unless the ground is very poor. The edges will require skilled shuttering joiners, but they won't be much interested in a small job. Never did understand why we should put sub-base in the bottom of a trench. Lean-mix concrete for me. The step is a brick sitting on the geound..it will move un less supported by the building. Cold bridge at the sole plate. dpm on the outer face of the raft will be torn/crumpled during construction. You shouldn't need it if the concrete is dense enough.

Exactly. Experimenting is fine, but risky. Design for the weather conditions and a building can last indefinitely. Look at The Burrell Collection in Glasgow, reopened this week. Opened 1983 Closed because of leaks 2016 (33 years before leaking and being shut isn't great, but it was leaking long before that.) Reopened 2022 after works costing £69M A building is here to keep us or our property out of the weather, with looking pretty and letting light in coming second. The original designers (whose roof leaked) have criticised the revised designs. Interesting I think, as to what we expect of Architects. https://www.architectsjournal.co.uk/news/opinion/glasgow-is-butchering-the-burrell BUT the collection and gallery are rather good, and I recommend a visit.

The above advice is all good, and I feel that I am expected to add something. Two more thoughts. 1. People often have too much expectation about beautiful finishes. Our houses are made of ground and plants, in all sorts of weather and in the middle of a field:. Very little can be perfect. The floor is built and it is not going to settle or float away. It is safe to walk on , jump on and support a stove. If it cracks a bit more it won't go anywhere, but you may have some cracks which you can cover.. This only really presents a problem if the industrial finish of the concrete is intended to remain uncovered. Look at the floor in a retail outlet shed and there are normally millions of visible cracks. 2. You can fit floor finishes when it suits after just a month or so. The times stated for concrete to cure and dry are generally extremely conservative. This gives all the contractors an excuse if there are problems, and also sells sealing products (which trap any moisture in for ever). The exception to all this if the concrete slab is laid with too much added water (which makes it easier for the contractor to handle) This evaporates and leaves the equivalent as voids in the concrete, which will crack more and may be soft on the surface. That would be nice. This is Britain. Not turning the heating pipes on too early is essential as it will upset the chemistry of curing, but much lower temperatures (above 5?) will be fine. I would leave the UFH off for at least a week.

Yes that works, but it isn't normally a great idea to have such a big tolerance. The washers need to be very big and sturdy. I was assuming that the sole plate will be in long timbers, to minimise joints, so more chance of error. Doing this myself it wouldn't be a concern, but I can't see our contractor being thrilled with this. I like the idea in principle, better than shot-firing down which I think is the norm, and will give it more thought. Had more thought. Let the chippy fix it any which way, then drill through the plate, into the concrete and fix studs with epoxy.