saveasteading

Or in other words, complicated Engineering stuff. Much more encouraging to see this than the standard computer outputs where you put in some numbers and an answer comes out. What is behind your concern?

A bit extreme and better implied than said. It is perfectly possible to make a fireproof door this other way, but it is much easier to convince the BCO of the standard ways. Whether this is careless or a way round an issue I can't say, without seeing it.

yes, so that is good, I think. You have effectively a solid wall between you so if you tap on your plasterboard it echoes out of theirs, and vice versa, so that gives an easy opportunity, with stud, insulation and the resilient bars mentioned above. That also tends to allow an impact on one side to reflect to the other, and even through the wall. It is easier to reduce this by cutting the noisy side, so that doesn't help. But we are getting somewhere.

Picking up some threads in the hope of helping: It sounds here as if you intend to use a single contactor, acting as main contractor. If they are a hands-on, owner 'on the tools' contractor, then they can't possibly know everything about everything, and their time is best spent making rather than buying. We all have different skills, so the great builder is unlikely to be a great researcher and buyer...that is a specialist skill and takes time. As above, they will tend to go to one supplier for everything as the service is good, the prices always reasonable, and they have an account there. You can shop around and get better prices for some major purchases. Insulation, timber, masonry. But then the builder has to handle it, and there can be arguments about wastage and damage. Whose responsibility if it is delayed/ delivered incorrectly? Who prepares the schedule of sizes, details and quantities? If he drops your toilet pan, who pays for a replacement? And who decides the specification? When you see the contractor's rates they are building in wastage and risk as well as a handling charge. (for example a very good and trusting client once asked why our internal doors were £300 when they cost £30 at Wickes. After explanation (as above) and ironmongery , frames etc all was well but it caused short term mistrust.) Therefore your consultants should specify everything. If it is a standard building they may have their lists already, hence mentioning the required glue isn't an over-requirement) (example again: only recently on this site did I learn of floor glue that expands to fill every gap and stop creaking: perhaps your builder knows and would use it, perhaps not). Also, if there is a standard list, all competing contractors are on the same terms. You can also welcome suggestions from them, but do respect their ideas and don't share them out....that really annoys them and they may walk away. Trust and respect are needed 3 ways here: client, consultant, contractor.

To give us more background, what age is the house? Can you see if the floorboards run towards or parallel to the party wall?

On the balance of 2 tiny wheels and some bricks under the corners, it is a caravan avoiding needing permission to be a house. Or to ProDave's info, slingable , but nearly always where a house would not be permitted.

If it is still on its tiny wheels then it is still a caravan, I would think. If it has been taken off its wheels then it ceased to be a 'mobile home' and was in breach of planning. I cant see any justification for allowing this other than a planning officer's whim, or oversight.

It has to be ducted with their approved spec. of pipe. Also nice straight lines with proper draw points and draw cord in place. This sounds pedantic but I have seen cables getting stuck so it matters to them. I would think you will have to agree the route beforehand too. If there is some tension in this scenario then you must do your bit exactly right.

I would first try a blanket over and around the noisy box. If that works at all, make it prettier and use some soft absorbent material and some dense. Of course check that this won't set it on fire/close off vents etc. Perhaps a solid box around it, lined with foam and stuffed with rockwool. Plus check whether the noise is coming from vibration (which can be fixed) or inbuilt in the mechanism.

Do you know if this is a routine question or if there is a known risk at the location? Presumably you have looked at flood risk maps already and asked around locally. Before committing to site or to a full report it is always worth checking if the site or area has a flood risk in principle. The risk assessment is routine for an Engineer experienced in the subject, so make sure you get a good one. Have you tried looking up other applications in your area? They may have published the flood risk report and so you will see what is involved and get some names to try.

Thanks for this. I thought it was compulsory. Just good practice but Howdens don't bother it seems. I guess the BCO can ask too see the delivery schedule, but can't lift it too see if heavy. Not a problem with self-builders doing things right , but I will now worry about some commercial situations.

But aren't you paying for sewage based on an artificially small measure of mains supply?

Fire rated doors should have a coloured inset plug. That way the BCO can easily check it if there is any doubt. Re complex regulations. I find it best to do an old-fashioned printout of the relevant pages, go into a quiet room, magic marker the clauses that appear to be relevant and draw arrows between them. Once the logic is sorted, keep the notes for when you inevitably forget it all. This works especially well if 'discussing' with a BCO.

Maybe I'm paranoid, but I think it is sometimes best to be anonymous. Who knows who is reading this, and you might want to discuss builders/suppliers/consultants and, dare I say, local authority? I don't give my name and the location is vague: enough to provide context but not where it is. I'm sure it would not take much detective work to find more, but it avoids chance discovery on google. So if I was you I would start again as 'made-up-name' , Argyll. But that is entirely up to you, and others may disagree

I am thinking that is a reality of a window in an original stone wall. Otherwise the window has to be inset and the reveals will get wet. So it is a compromise, and a weakness in the envelope. But is there any solution? In the context of the whole building, perhaps the heat-loss through the inner skin to foam, to stone is no worse than through the thermal breaks themselves, which are just short lengths of plastic.

You are in the right place: that is the attitude of most on here. Welcome. Get these questions coming in, but also look back using the search function.

Good points, both. Only saves money if it saves water piped in. If you have a rainwater harvester your sewage bill becomes very small though, even if all your waste water heads that way.

Bathwater is good for the garden.

For my own (and family) house I will always now use Aquapanel or Hardybacker. As an amateur it was very good to work with (both fixing it and tiling) , plus I know there is a waterproof layer if the grout or silicon fails. I found Hardybacker easier to work with, than Aquapanel.

Can someone explain the following please, from a Vaillant specification? Is there an optional setting for 35/45/55 C? or does it change automatically as necessary? from the A+++ to A++ variation I assume that the system works better at the lower temperature, but can be increased to suit circumstances. I expect there is a big difference in running cost between A+++ and A++. SCOP of up to 5.03 sounds good but "up to" makes it a bit meaningless. And what is that 'F' about? Energy efficiency class 35°C (A+++ to F) A+++ Energy efficiency class 55°C (A+++ to F) A++ https://www.vaillant.co.uk/specifiers/products/arotherm-plus-heat-pump-74048.html

In theory I like panels, but the cutting of openings is scary, which it isn't with tiles. Measure 5 times, get a second opinion, cut once. If wrong then it is an expensive mistake. With tiles there may be many tiles to cut for the pipe holes but the measuring is easy and the risk is low. Or is it not so bad for panels? I have only done it once for a kitchen back-board with multiple sockets to cut, and 'got away with it'. We have lots to do so I'd prefer panels if convinced. What is best for backing?

As heard often in 'The Killing', along with 'komm hier noo bairn' (excuse spelling) which made me realise that Scots is largely Scandinavian.

Please explain this. The cavity wall has a dpc at the base and should be closed at the top too. Any vents are gaps in the mortar, which covering would close off. I appreciate that a wide cavity allows air to circulate due to thermal differences but it stays in the cavity. A cavity wall has much better insulation than a solid wall. On top of this, an external masonry wall loses heat through wetting and evaporation, which will not be the case when clad.

No, but there might be details such as canopy/porch. The sills will disappear and need replacing. The over-clad may clash with the gutter, which they can't simply move outwards as the tiles won't reach. And some other things I haven't thought of.

Some Architects are basically artists who prefer shape and form and novelty to any thought of structure and keeping the weather out. I know that universities encourage novelty and even teach the students to 'not worry about how it is built. Leave that to the Engineers', which is not only ignorant but also arrogant. Fortunately a decent proportion of those that come out the other end are already, or become, practical and valuable professionals. If I had to find an architect or Architect then I would depend on references, both in looking for a shortlist and checking up on them after interview. Tough questions about what is included and very tough questions on keeping to budget. Insist on some previous clients who you can speak to. Of course they will push the happy ones, so somehow you need to find any others: perhaps a list from which you choose who to contact. Did it go alright, and did it come in on budget?