saveasteading

Firstly, is the footing completely level, not simply to the top of the trench? You will bury the bottom block, anc as an amateur brickayer this isn't a bad idea anyway for getting your line and level right. Why 150mm concrete slab? That is very thick. You can run forklifts on that. Nobody ever fell through a 100 slab, or 75 come to that. The norm would be to build the wall to slab level, pour your slab, then start again.

Looking at Charnwood 5kW. That looks to be the 'designed' size with the rest bring variation to some extent. Have used smaller in rental properties and they are a pain to keep going, and fit standard logs into. This is available quickly in black, and with some discount (thankfully as it is still expensive). Re seals. They are easy and cheap to replace. A bit of glassfibre string in a clip of groove.

I've done quite a lot of tiling. The waste is generally a strip of 50mm in the centre and there is 5% of the 10% to keep as spare or take back to the shop. Big tiles worse of course. Perhaps if it is the day job there isn't time to save and sort the offcuts for reuse. I helped an amazing tiler once, who didn't use spacers, but a very rapid set adhesive on walls, He held each wall tile in place for 15 seconds while preparing and placing the next tile with the other hand. 5 time as fast as me and worth his £350/day ( which his fixed price worked to). On a complex floor layout I handed him the next shape to save breaking his rhythm. I sorted the offcuts for reuse and his convenience. With tiles at £20 the wastage isn't as bad as at £50 of course.

So here is the plan. I will do a schedule of areas for floors and walls. We will suggest tiles that we like but won't love them Also an estimate of trims, door thresholds, hardybacker, and any other odds. Supplier can propose the adhesive and grout quantities. Tools too as there will be at least some diy. From that we get closer discussion with one or more supplier with big discounts. They agree to hold more of the same batch, or take back surplus. All adhesive etc as required, at the agreed price whenever we choose. Then we talk detail on delivery and price. Adhesive: professionals will want rapid set....amateurs slow set so it will be as required. Wasteage. I am shocked to see 10% quoted by all suppliers. 3% is still a lot of expensive hardcore.

I may have mis-remembered 30 or 50, but the advice was good. How much it shrinks when sheathed with osb must be much less. So the external and shear walls probably stayed high while the other stud walls shrank. Anyway it is a good reason to delay the cost, and to avoid the premature use of (and damage to) the lift. The lift supplier provided their own steel support cage which was not connected to the shaft. Anyway, wood does shrink and twist, and isn't always as dry as it is meant to be.

A year ago i was of the view to have an air duct close to, but not connected to, our proposed wbs. That would supply the air needed, without any room draughts, and with a standard wbs. But further thought peruaded me that direct connection provides much more control. Also since then, many more manufacturers have offered direct connection. So that is what we shall have. Experience of wbs in current home is that spmetimes it needs more air, and we have to open a door. In reality, the room is stuffy and it is us who are short of oxygen or have too much smoke getting back. Nasty gas can get back into the room, despite the seals and air flow. Proof comes when burning something that we shouldn't. Old bits of chipboard for example, when a nasty smell shows that the smoke is leaking into the room. How much heat lost up the chimney when not burning? With the direct air connnection there won't be room air going straight out. There willl however be heat transfer through the steel and up the chimney. Perhaps we need a stove cosey. In my self centred opinion, it is ok for us to burn wood in the countryside, but not for anyone in the town.

Timber shrinks a lot, even when kiln dried. On a 3 storey timber building we did, the lift supplier forecast a 50mm shrinkage, hence the lift would stop in the wrong places. As advised we did roof and brick walls before the lift went in. 3 storeys with flat roof isn't extreme. Moral: leave the windows as late as possible.

Nod, thanks. I appear not to have fallen for that, as the floor tiles we used twice are still there after 5 years. Similarly metro wall tiles. But some specials were really that and long gone. I just got annoyed, as you say, that extras were expensive...1 more bag of adhesive was £20 whereas the first 4 were £40 total. Ditto trims. They will either quote to us as if a contractor or lose the lot.

I've found the tiles Russdl recommends online. I wasn't going to mention the price as is about £40, if he paid 50. But now I can. No manufacturer or dealer appears to mention the problem of repeats. However, Russdl's tiles are by NovaBell. Their pictures don't seem to have any repeats, and they say 'infinite' layout. I wonder if they have a digital computer with hundreds of m2 of timber photos on it and every tile is different....or is that wishful thinking... Unfortunately there are no showrooms nearby so we will have to forget them.

I've been ok with topps for some years Quality good. Mostly buying their staple ranges or special offers. Any problems are...the staff are helpful but know v little about tiles. The computer decides what price to offer. I think with a formal enquiry if will go to head office for a price. But I await Nod's reasons with interest. Nod, don't say anything you would better not, in writing.

May depend on location. Many online companies quote free anywhere, then only later say that this is GB mainland excluding Highland and half of Aberdeenshire. Appalling ignorance of the geography of the country, so I will always then find someone else.

The wickes ones i looked at online are relatively cheap. The reviews are either very good, or bad...pattern wearing off !

That looks good. Do you remember the source/ name.

Local b m likely to have it in stock at that sort of price

Yes. It is a big refurb. Doing it in one is a large expense but the vat comes back just the once. Thinking of holiday lets, there is turnaround cleaning....hence brushable, washable floors, and dogs: whose claws damage laminate or vinyl.

It is time to choose floor and wall tiling. 300m2+. 3 questions. 1. There are hints of very large discounts, if committing to the whole project. Perhaps suggesting close to 50%. We could keep to a small range in large quantities, using the higher end ranges if the discount is enough. Any experience, target, advice? 2. I dont like 'effects' but am over-ruled, and we are looking at wood effect porcelain. I especially dislike the repeat of prints of knots and shakes, which in life are unique, and very especially if they line up due to identical tile prints. Has anyone overcome this? I am thinking find a range with subtle (boring?) marking, a large range of patterns, and reversing half. Then we mix them rather than leaving it to the tiler. 3. Do we favour realistic textures or smooth?

Have seen a van and checked the website, promoting spray-on plaster. It seems to be done with a heavy-duty paint sprayer, by Graco. The plaster is in readymixed sacks, looking like very thick paint. Anybody know of it or similar? This would be for plasterboard walls and ceilings...lots of it. Obv this would be quick. There are many mentions of speed, lack of dust, and avoidance of waste. But there is a studious avoidance of mentioning cost, or whether it is smooth.

Try borough or district councillor first, as their patch is much smaller and known to them, and they may involve the others. Depending where you live there may be a parish or equivalent council too.

Either would be fine. Ask the BM why they favour one. It might be on better terms for them, or a more reliable supply....or something technical. Multitrack appears to be by a small uk company, which is a plus to me.

Agreed with the above. Plus line the base and sides with tiles or cement board to avoid combustion of the cupboard.

Good idea. A lot of draught through that hole. If you can't drill for some reason, there will be a type you could glue on. I must do mine. Failing which... velcro.

Tufton Street wants us to have the freedom to waste energy.....and buy more.

This is all they do, and they work out a price based on estimated time. I expect them to be good at it and as quick as they say.

I would expect the screed to continue to delaminate. 4mm plywood is very thin. Perhaps not enough fixings and it is flexing. Why does the board beneath need this extra ply layer What thickness is the screed?

Back to my suggestion of the local councillor. Getting them interested is the first issue, but there are several neighbours involved so that helps. Once you have their support though, it is a short cut to all the council departments, as the councillor can summon them. This helps a lot when the planners etc would rather not deal with your issue (busy, don't like disputes). The council depts have up to date detailed maps of ownerships, land to be kept open etc. The other suggestions on doing your homework are important too. The more convincing your case, the better.