saveasteading

Sounds ok, just always think of how it will flow and that a rod will get aling it. 2 x 45 together can disrupt flow / catch a drain rod. A short straight between might help. Why 45 though? 22 or less might work.

All the above. Just make sure of the robustness of the roof ties. If still nervous, a vertical timber bolted down the wall will provide extra stiffness. All tgat assumes that you are not hoing to be hoisting great loads off the roof.

I think i might build the 2 tracks as suggested, but fill the gap with stone. The tracks made of insitu concrete with diagonal scores on them for traction and to cast off water. And exposed sharp aggregate.

If you get it wrong, do you end up in Low Wycombe?

Er....most expensive cars perhaps. A bucket of salt/grit, of the modern chemical, plus a snow shovel. It isnt a long drive, and winters are getting milder.

No because the liquid will be almost clean even before the filter bed and you will have installed a sampling chamber.

Clean is clean. Just anticipate some testing once it is running and perhaps do some yourself fif the record.

They can even analyse it (petrol) and find who spilled it. A careless client of ours was tracked a few miles upstream from the sample.

Lay the stone wider than you need and then let it slope away. That is how a road is built. Or do your ground raising first. And stone against it.

You don't seem to have any obligation to change your septic to a better system. Therefore any work to the drainage field could be seen as maintenance. I'd be surprised if your percolation test was 'promising' unless the water is going through cracks which will close up in the winter. Not domerhing to cut corners on as any stink will be all yours. Silting up can sometimes clear, if it gets time to recover. Because we don't eat much silt usually.

What comes out of a digester is not domestic waste any longer. In my opinion you would not get in any trouble.

I'm convinced the rules are misguided. There is a formula for semi-treated outflow, which needs a big gravel area for bacteria to finish thd job, and they knock off 20% for fully treated. Hence a handy ditch can save lots of money and hassle.

Built one 200m long once*. There was a complete movement joint half way, on the basis that the expansion of the roof would cause too much stress or deflection of the structure. Each half had its own stability. The roof was doubke skin with fibregalss, so no concerns re pir. * going back for a tape or pencil left at the other end was good exercise.

The cleanest of the grey water (bath, shower) could feasibly go to smaller soakaways. That might be a 'good thing to do', but won't reduce the digester and drainage bed size which is based on number of bedrooms. You will see discussions on here of tanks being held down to avoid floating in high water tables. The drainage must struggle but it seems to be permitted. I suggest you now do a percolation test or 2 or 3, in the likely location for your soakaway (which i should warn will be about 60m2! This is easy and is in the building regs. It is well explained in jdp (a drainage supplier) website . Search " percolation test jdp". This won't be definitive but will show tbe feasibilty.

Tiles do however keep heat out. They absorb the first hit by the sun. There is another reason not to retile until necessary. When stripped back, you may find some deterioration of the underlying structure. Of course you would sensibly repair that at the same time. Costly. Unless there are big problems i would leave it alone, and get another 10 years out of it. Our roof 'needed' replacement 25 years ago according to a rival buyer. We have had a few repairs. Some tiles are slumping due to batten failure but are hanging in there. It is keeping the weather out which is its sole function.

Depending on your location, it is possible to be locally outside the radon risk area, while people are in the habit of specifying it as standard. There are other risk reducers too, such as being on a hill....in my opinion. Would radon gas force its way through a lapped joint? Probably not, but can't demonstrate it. I don't understand your comment about flooding. Your careless builder should be lucky to be allowed to supply another membrane rather than break it out and start again.

In case it helps, you might be amazed how out if level most slabs are, and how much us considered acceptable. If there was a roof on, you wouldn't notice. Agreed as above. Level off with sand. Fill sand or builders sand is fine unless you traipse over it in boots and mess it up. If you have a mixer you might add 10% cement to crisp it up, as it is only 1/2 m3. For interest, and continuous professional development, do you mind telling us what level 'control' was used. Is the middle low, or are thd ens high...and how thick is the concrete?

Our project is Scotland. I have done far more work in Kent. The rules are much the same. So you have the land, have dug a hole, know that there is chalk below. All looking good. There is an unusual concern on the chalk, that water will disperse down a crack and cause a sink-hole. Spreading it wide resolves that. Unless you can do it yourself I would get some professional help on this. Seeing the site is crucial. Doing test holes and permeability tests are easy and you can do them before engaging help. But for free.... how many bedrooms? Do you think it is clay? Is there a stream or ditch adjacent?

That labourer at £145 is probably getting £80. £250/ day x 5 x 46 = approx £60k pa. Not bad eh? I'm out of touch with current south east rates but not everyone makes that. It does perhaps reflect cost after a contractor's oncosts though, and some down-time. It isn't so much the daily cost that matters but what they do in the day...production and quality. Rates are likely to drop, but trades traditionally don't drop their rates in harder times until chased out of the house for whatever is available.

For ours, I did the drainage investigation, the report and the design. It is something I do. Whether sepa even looked at it we can't tell. It is quite a complex process. The treatment plant manufacturers will specify appropriately, but you need to be, or make yourself, fairly expert to do the disposal assessment, esp as you are looking at soakaway. Otherwise you will need professional help. For now, let us know the ground and we can help with the initial feasibility. Also...do you have much land available for a drainage system. Reed beds are great in principle. Depends on circumstances.

Ask neighbours. Dig a hole. Simply, for now, what do you find 300 down?

One of you is wrong. I hope it was you. Where are the big differences?

A properly selected treatment plant into a proper soakaway will more than perform (the drainage beds are very conservative, ie oversized ) and should be signed off easily enough. Metrics are based on building use, presumably domestic, number of bedrooms and ground permeability. What is the ground/ water table level?

From a known name or a warehouse only supplier? Am I right that we are looking at 40% difference or so? And that the retail sites perhaps won't break ranks on discounts?

We should have huge buying power with lots to procure. Our plumber suggests two retailers whose prices are utterly crazy. Perhaps he planned to keep the discount. Tried the usually reliable local bm, but they are going through another party, not big name manufacturers, and the prices are disappointing. We are looking at roca, hansgrohe, etc level which we can schedule. Any suggestions of a good source? To Inverness , but where necessary we can explain that this has roads.