saveasteading

Handy tip: when you dispose of the slow to respond storage heaters, the bricks are very useful in the greenhouse as heatsinks: they absorb heat in the day and release it into the evening. The bricks are incredibly heavy and are more like tiles. I think there is a lot of iron in them.

Yes you do. It is within the overhead, for the proportion of time taken for these processes...and applied to labour, space and general costs. It may be formalised or just 'within the overhead'. Have a word with the FD about it. They are usually happy that anyone is interested. Taking it 'out of profit' means you are charging your customers for the failed tenders...as I said already. It works, and is fair because normally everybody does the same. I'm not guessing. I was an Estimator, and how much to charge for overhead was set as standard and adjusted if short of work, and I later ran a construction business. People argue about charging or not, but only in hard times. From what IT costs, there are clearly huge wages, big profits and large overheads. How can one of your industry help me on the phone for 30 minutes and charge £100. Ridiculous, as he was clearly sitting idle anyway. Sorry, just having fun.

No idea. Most won't stock it so I would use the web for guidance and offer that price to your local BM. They have a sure sale and no stock costs. A further thought..I have a vague memory that it is super hard and smooth on one side, but rippled on the back....which wouldn't be slippy but might get mucky. So looked on line and some is sold specifically as non-slip....BUT £260/sheet!!!! And they sell edge sealer. I think best contact the manufacturer. BTW I see your local castle is on tele for 'Traitors'. No mention of the Duke of Sutherland's nasty doings which paid for it.

I'll put that in my black book if I find it. The trouble is (SE anyway) how many useful hours there are). Arrive 8.10, tea in the van. 9.00 breakfast. 1.00 lunch. 3.00 tea. 4.00 home ('before the traffic')

Yes this is how it will work: a stream of hot rising air, but too slow to cause general movement round the room. When putting the angel on the tree it is so much hotter up there. All hot air rises, and it can be extreme in a warehouse situation. 10m up on a cherrypicker it can be very hot unless the air can be brought down again. These fans exist but are underused, Back to domestic: Hence continental room fans have a reverse switch. Downwards in summer because the draught itself is what causes the cooling feeling, but up in winter to force the warmer air down where useful.

Right. If 3mm or less, say, then adhesive as you tile. More than that, up to 10mm filll with adhesive first and let it harden. Easy either way. Over 10mm, let's see the photo please.

People! Can't trust them. People with skills where there is a shortage? Greedy. No site visit and quote is free of cost to the supplier. It is charged in the quote, along with a share of lost job costs. I forgot to mention sickness cover, insrance, overheads. I suggest you don't go into contracting or any other self employed position or you will undercharge for a while. A very good diy book for Christmas perhaps. (There will be profits and overheads unreasonably built in to the price though). Been an interesting and informative discussion.

Scotland or England? The terms vary according to location, and beware using the wrong term.

No, there is an easy enough way. Stoph43, I will deal with this for you if you wish to pursue this solution...but it is your project and your money.

Assuming this will be a coat of emulsion, then there is no harm carrying on.

Very durable. It is used for multi use concrete shuttering. The cut edges seem to be entirely resistant to damp but perhaps paint over them...or just check occasionally. I took a punt on making concrete shutters from the material, despite the cost, for a standard plinth we used, typically 20 per project, with screwed connections. I think they were used about 6 times (i wrote on them each job). Which justified the cost and sustainabity (timber use, skips, then deduct storage and transport). Until a groundworker sent a new gang to strip them and they smashed them up. I think they would have lasted another 6. At last use there was a lot of denting and corners chipped, to be expected, but there was no water damage. So i think it is fine for you. Check slipperiness. It cut very neatly too.

If there isn't a cat, dog and bird print (the Big Three) then it isn't a proper floor. The point about the adjacent area being high is good. The material has moved from the imprint sideways and up, so put a straight edge on it. If high, grind down with a carborundum stone if posh, or a brick, the sooner the easier. Then I would fill anything more than 3mm deep before the tiling. This gives it time to shrink and cure. Tile adhesive as good as anything, and really sticks, so the tiler could do it first. I'm convinced that non-shrink adhesive does shrink, hence doing it early. A photo of the footprint would be rather good for your ID.

Think of it as £40 per light. If he had take 2 hours, through not being such an efficient worker, would you have minded 2 hours at £122/hour? Still a lot I know. But he has the risk of it not working for a reason not known until starting, dropping them, a faulty one he has to replace, and a call-back if one fails. Also what is often ignored is the free visits when he is not then asked to do the work. first visit including coming and going. An hour typically. Getting the parts. An hour typically. the job, including coming and going, 2 hours as it went so quickly. that is 4 hours of his time used for your project. £244 /4 is £60/hour. Allowing for the odd day when a visit is cancelled or can't work efficiently , say 4 weeks lost in the year. and then less holidays. £60 x 40 hours x 42 weeks: £100,000 a year. Still rather good, so please encourage youth to do an apprenticeship and get into a trade. And bottom line is to check prices and shop around first if you think that is excessive.

As there is wall cladding then that would define the available outer limit. so you have 20mm or more to play with, if anyone is measuring that closely. But then what if you drop a string line from the edge of the roof sheeting, does that give extra width? Even if you could only squeeze in 20mm PIR outside the columns, that will do enough, and can be made up for in other ways (discuss later if this works in principle) I do not agree for a moment that you should leave the rafters and purlins exposed, if that is what the above suggestion is. It would need heavy protection and would be , let's say, quirky. It works in the Mediterranean but not here. Are the purlins (pedantic corner here...purlins are only on the roof, the walls have wall rails (or girts in American and some of Europe)) yes, are the purlins set on top of the rafters or inset? What do you plan for the wall construction? You will be stripping the wall and roof cladding. Has anyone already measured the existing dimensions? This is all worth many thousands to you, so any more photos or sketches may be worthwhile.

yourself?

That is very heavy reinforcement for a normal extension slab. Why? What area is the slab?

I don't agree, unless this is an enclosed space. There isn't a huge amount of heat off an enclosed slab. Ive even had to break out 1m2 plinths that the cold got into (in Kent, not Cairngorms). The 3 degrees and rising is a decent guide, but not even that always.

If only I could find my little black book. So from memory... think on a big job with lightweight and repetitive doors, and not hardwood architraves, 4 is probably right. Joiner + 1. For heavy doors with fancy ironmongery that isn't always the same. 3, or even 2. Me doing it. 2 days each.

Red pen. 3 lengths of 1.6m or 4 of 1.2m. Interesting about the glue. I had never heard of that and would have bolted. Your way much easier.

I do recommend this first.ie connector from wall to tv.

That is becoming a difficult formula. And then allow for what you don't know you don't know. I would just add that being onsite every day gives you control, insight and some leverage. You may save many weeks. Plus, depending on disposition, you can do little jobs, hold things for the builders, and move things along. A lot of time is lost when the builder is short of something....sometimes an excuse for a part day. You can go for the missing grommet. But remember that most of us on here have experience. It is probably more difficult than we are saying, or even aware.

Guessing that it is running fairly flat carrying lots of rainwater. What is it being fixed to? Think how awful this would be if it failed. Too awful to be asking us on here, without knowing all the circumstances. Also be aware that pipe bends so there will be sagging between supports. When the supports are in, swing from each one as a test. Seriously: i would. 160mm is a lot though. Explain?

As you will know, Some of the BMs buy through the specialist suppliers, not direct from the manufacturer. So if Travis Perkins are buying from Sheffield Insulations then obviously they can't beat them. But that is a service to their customers. Our local merchant is skilful, knowledgable and grateful for the orders. Whether they made any money on the 2 loads of pir i dont know, but they beat SIG and the web suppliers. When my business favoured TP, we refused to be transferred to another branch because the relationship is so important. Patp, i look forward to more insights.

You can easily entomb a pump, in a sump preferably, and it will kick in occasionally. I've done that a couple of times, with client permission, with great sucess. Whether they still work or the streams closed themselves off i don't know, but expect the latter.

But the columns are exposed and need very high quality painting. Sips outside on the roof, so why not on the walls too? I've done lots of steel buildings mostly new, some reclad. I've only left columns outside when there was a need for flush internal walls. It is more complex , especially in getting an airtight insulated joint at the haunch (interface to the rafter). Looks better though.