saveasteading

There are ready-made translucent, dimpled panels that simply slot into the space. If you want to form a white or shiny box up to coincide with a skylight then it is doable. A surprising amount of light tends to find its way even if you don't. But it will be more about day and night recognition than illumination. It gets hot in the void you have created,

A good point. Piling companies usually know what they are doing. sIt's probably going to be alright. When we had piling operations, usually with the least bangy method, there was usually a complaint from neighbours about all the cracks that were appearing. None became claims. I had photos from 2 weeks earlier. I think most were genuinely concerned and they saw pre-existing cracks for the first time, or were just nervous. One I think was a chancer but was hoping for some cash or free decoration. I wouldn't get legal. Photos and other records are free.

I don't think that is the case. It is still transmitting loads into the ground, to the complete length of the screw and on the end. You're right, there is no banging. Also some 'banged' piles simply displace the earth and don't remove it. But some screw piles do remove earth...its complex. Party Wall involvement doesn’t mean it can't be done, but an independeng SE, paid for by the developer, makes the judgement.

Take photographs of the piling rig etc too . I would email them to a friend, as that proves the date. Photos on here would do the same, and let us see them. Does the piling involve big hammers bashing down lumps of steel or concrete? It isn't necessarily a problem. Houses move a lot. If you can work out or estimate the shortest distance from your house to a pile, then that will be interesting too.

Commercially, you are best to earn your building fund doing what you are skilled at, then diy as much as you can. Your funds are hard earned and after tax. Anything you can do yourself is tax-free work. UNLESS your skill is extremely well paid, in which case employ builders at a much lower rate than yours.

Also a lot of weight at mid span where the beam will deflect. You seem to have a grasp of the loadings issue so, yes, do this. It is all too easy to draw a plan and add notes that the SE has to make it work. Efficiency, and value, require realistic geometry that the structure can work within. Some architects have been taught , or absorb, am understanding of structure. Some have not. So get it looked at in principle now, and then the detail can follow. Make it clear if projecting beams and columns are not acceptable, and that you don't mind paying a lot more for this.

A spreadsheet is just a list. The advantage is the ease of altering it to reality. Plus that people believe spreadsheets. The downsides are being tempted to believe it, using other people's items and priorities, and working to it too rigorously. Add many periods of delay. I must have done hundreds of programme spreadsheets, mostly for showing cash flow to clients. They were effectively one line....start/ finish, with the process spread to fit. The rest is detail, and to show people you are organised. But for self build it is mainly a guide to your thought processes and to flag up your critical decision points. Lists are fine.

That should do it for cold air coming in, but not hot air going out. Then smoke sticks or joss sticks at the interfaces. Our original windows were so draughty that it seemed pointless, plus fuel bills are much increased.

I live in a conversion. We did what was easy, pir boards inserted between the wall studs. Quilt in the attic The floor is uninsulated concrete, and the heat loss is huge, esp with tiled or board flooring. If I was doing this now, I would put in whatever thickness the floor finishes could take, allowing for door heights. If that is 10mm, I would do it as it will be very much better than zero. That won't look great on a spreadsheet but the reality, allowing for daily heating patterns, will be worthwhile. And as above, draughts. I'd search them all out and somehow kill whatever I could.

Hi and welcome. I'm cough x older than you and still learning. I had the privelege of teaching my son in law 'everything' about construction during lockdown. I learned how difficult it is to explain/ grasp some processes, but then it clicks. He struggled to see why it was all so complex....it is because it isn't a factory where things click together in a precise order. How did the project go? Still going after 2 years. They are learning skills and now doing almost everything themselves except plumbing and electrics. Takes longer but cheaper and often better. They have learned that I was right saying that many specialists are rubbish at what they do every day, and some cheat. Learning is easist when working alongside somebofy. Eg wd worked togrther on drainage, then after 2 days it was declared simple and i wasnt needed. BUT there is the danger of being taught wrong. So keep asking on here. Kent isn't the best place for good value contractors. Get learning. Ours is a refurb, change of use, with some dramatic issues to resolve. Knocking it down and building new is so much easier than refurb. Can you keep any foundations or floor? So often they are replaced needlessly. Tell us more. Is the site flat/ dry / woooded/ rural/ got close neighbours Silly question....its obv on top of a cliff. Or you are Cliff and planning a top quality build.

I've spoken to the kitchen buyer here, over breakfast. She says the giveaway quality difference is in the door finishes, Having compared lots of air bnb recently. Being used, they have had time to wear or fail. All new, but on several, the film was peeling off at the edges. The difference in door prices is huge.

With doors we got the best price at Howdens. This type all look like the same US source to me, so shop around as all the merchants are intermediaries. If anyone knows how the oak laminate is made, please tell. I can't work it out. Skirtings and other mouldings are best from specialists who do nothing else. If you want pine, you can sometimes get these direct from the mill. I built a few mill buuldings, and could see the packs of mouldings going out shrinkwrapped, with 4 or 5 different diy store stickers on them. We once got oak skirtings at an amazing price, after lots of shopping around. I think it was online.

We've used Howdens for kitchen 1, and about to for kitchen 2. And several times through the ages. Have used benchmarx many times and magnet in the past too. Whenever I've used the diy store stuff it has been much inferior in panel thickness, strength, flatpack of course, and veneer. I can't commrnent on @Kelvin s recommendation, so of course check them out. Unless it's changed, benchmarx and wickes are the same stuff, with a slight overlap in the quality/ range, which is interesting. Someone on here said they got a better deal at a different Howdens. What annoys me most is silly prices for the skirtings, end panels etc. Ask to delete them, saying uou will buy them elsewhere, and see what happens. Oh, and another whole end panel to separate 2 units...you can get 2 out of one, or delete for a plainer appearance. They are serious about being trade only. They used to have 2 price lists, one for end customers with 20% built in for the installer. Now they don't. It's unlikely they will turn a blind eye and give a trade accpunt as it will annoy the genuine fitters.

That's a great position to start from, and you know the area. I'd hazard that you have the advantage being close to the metropolises for competitive supplies, yet not in them. Start keeping the vat receipts, if any, right now. Chat to the local builders merchants and see who you relate to...althoujgh you probably have an agricultural merchant already and they might extend their range. Your budget could just about work. Plusses and minuses. Add cash for the vat that won't come back until the end. NB construction work for agriculture is of a much more rustic standard than for domestic, although the contractors might not know it. I've been there and seen the good and the bad. On the other hand , they maybe work harder and overcome challennges mord resdily. Do you have digger/ forklift/ tractor or the like? Or the neighbours?

A different daughter is rebuilding a conservatory in timber stud. She has had upvc windows delivered. Has anyone advice on screws to use? I'm thinking that standard ones will rip through the frame, or need washers. @craigof course, and other specialists' advice would of course be welcome. I've only done this myself into steel framing, and used cladding screws complete with their washers.

If you can expose it, you could wrap it in drainage membrane then surround in gravel. Or just expose what is easy enough and do what suits. Putting on a bed of mortar is an option too, to stop it moving while you are backfilling.

A pond is good. It provides storage, then a big bottom surface and some pressure for soakaway, and evaporation off the surface. As above, a tree will dry out the clay in summer, and create fissures. Ditto perimeter plants. Any overflow mustn't be towards the neighbours.

You mran straight from the tanalising process? That is naughty. At least there isn't cyanide in the recipe any longer, but its still not nice....thats the whole point of it.

What gap is specified. I've heard 3 'experts' say wildly different numbers.

As you are building a head wall, you could transition to a new pipe within it and concrete all around and behind. Then pretty stone work on show. Or take one more out. 18" is likely. Or build a concrete channel instead of using a pipe, to any shape. Looks fun to me.

As you know, That is an old land drain. Not many work now because they fill up with roots. They are theoretically round, but very roughly made. They are often found where there should have been a proper sealed jointed drain. A neat transition would be with a small rodding point, then concrete round the old pipe.

Our original building had traditional sarking. If it hadn't, I think it would have rotted and collapsed completely, long ago. The gaps between boards make such a difference in letting water drip through and air movement dry the timber again. All repairs were done the same way. With breather where we could bug without if it was local patching. Where we had to replace the structure we used osb, based on price, and that it shouldn't get wet for some decades, with a metal roof, air gap then breather. Traditional sarking would perhaps have been the very long term decision.

Physics is a pain. If that is a sliding door then the beam has to be very deep and stiff, or it will deflect and the doors stick. Let's see how it is designed. The top right column needs to be bigger , not smaller. Can that door be moved away from the corner? The pillar you don't want in the kitchen unit area could be in the wc instead. If it hasn't been thought of already, the floor joists can be set into the beams instead of on top. Best get your SE input asap then look af these aesthetics. But nobody hardly anybody cares about seeing beams across rooms. Architects might explain it as respecting the honesty of the structure. Engineers will say, " you canny change the laws of physics". Looking forward to helping you with this once there are more details.

Permission to be a little conerned on your behalf? From this discussion it seems that you have little or no experience of construction, which would suggest using large packages of work to substantial contractors . Yet you imply there is a fairly restricted budget, which requires small packages and a lot of management, and diy. These are not usually compatible. Its a 5 bed house, 180m2. Right now, you don't have a ground report. Are we expecting any challenges? Do you have contact with whoever got the planning permission? The budget and your resources are private matters. However let's say that 180m2 doing it self managed, you buying materials and using multiple small contractors will cost about £350k. Handing this over to a Project Manager and main contractor will be £450k. Anything flash will increase this. Any diy will reduce it. Others who have built similar projects recently may disagree. What you need now is clarity of what is feasible, lots more knowledge...keep reading old stuff on here, and local knowledge of self build.....and be cheeky and look at local projects for contacts.

Why would the erector want the risk that you don't want? He would have the double risk of the supplier going bust or the client not paying as well as the cash flow issue of making the big deposit. A main contractor doing the whole project might agree to do it, but will still charge for the the risk, although the client might not spot it as a specific item. I'm thinking 20% mark-up on the frame is nowhere near enough for me. What would you want to charge me if the positions were reversed?