saveasteading

I wouldn't scaremonger. We don't know the situation which is stated as theoretical. If it is likely to be permitted , then be honest with the planners. Why has the neighbouring house been shown too small? Deliberately or in error?

An Architect, capital A, should have the skill to establish the size of the neighbouring property, even approximately. They should also have the knowledge that it is important to give accurate representation of the relevant surroundings...otherwise why even show it? Anything else is deceiving the planners, whether intentionally or not. In real life, it isn't likely to be pulled down but would require a re-submission at the very least, modification of the height as likely. So if this theoretical building was being constructed right now, it might be best to pause and discuss it. If it hadn't been started then get new permission by discussion with planners and accurate drawings. And get the Architect to resolve it all free of charge.

Avoidable risks should be avoided. Not that we know how the house is built. Air bricks are to ventilate a suspended floor, but perhaps the floor is now ground-bearing. @richie9648 perhaps you can tell us.

Good point. It will be low risk stuff but I'd still take reasonable precautions. These tiles look old enough to be asbestos reinforced type Dampness and avoidance of dust is your ally. Double bagged and taken to the tip by appointment, no charge. They will cut through the bags, so boxed first might help.

If you board to 10mm short and fit an L shape or quadrant over the gap but fixed above, it will form a sliding joint.

We all like progress reports. Next time, put on the Facebook site for wood burners that you have all this , free to collector, and it will soon be taken away, nails and all, and heat someone's house with less pollution. Did the insulation go on the bonfire? At a fire's peak, even fire rated rockwool turns back to sand.

Take that edging all the way, with gravel behind, and it will completely remove splash whereas Aco will still splash where water hits the metal bits.. Sorry Aco, you've lost a sale. You need to weed it occasionally, and clean the gravel every few years.

You're right and a bit of cracking is likely whatever you do. If you build this with the 10mm gap I'm sure a solution will present itself as it's a tiny gap to bridge with an oversailing board or trim.

If the beam is simply supporting a wall and perhaps a floor onto the wall, then most of the load is already on it and it has already deflected. Only a bit more might result from people jumping on the floor, severe wind, snow if its a flat roof. The deflection head is still sensible but i woudn't fret over a few mm reduction if it helps, then fill with mastic or painters mait.

The aco is to catch water running towards the building. Can you slope the paving away from it?

Slates do more than look traditional. They will catch 99% of the rain and the wind. Ghen your underlay jusg takes some dribbles. Plus the weight holds ig alll down in thd worsf of gales. Can you make them fit back over the available depth?

How refreshing to have this simple explanation that you want to improve your own work. 35 years isn't too bad. It isn't a big roof so you'd be as well to strip it and redo, i think. You could probably rebuild it in modern materials and reslate over to preserve the appearance.

Sorry no. But its not an idea, it's good practice. Dig hole around air brick and 100 below it. Build 300 x 200 ish brick u shape, to level at least 20mm above proposed paving level. Gravel up to bottom of air brick. Pave up to brick. The dpc level should be a concern.

@Mr Punteris correct. Unless there is any obvious reason for a detour, such as a tree, rockery etc it will be the easiest route. Either 90° to the road or the shortest route to your internal stopcock. What depth is the inside of the meter box? Dig that deep and a bit. Carefully.

I would never cover an air brick. Apart from reducing air flow you are encouraging, indeed perhaps causing, water ingress to the void. Form a boxout using bricks or your blocks to above paving level (a tiny kerb) so that water stays out and the air brick is exposed. That's all assuming you have a raised floor and it hasn't previously been rebuilt. Surfacing up go this level is a concern in itself. Where is the dpc?

There are instances of consultants being sued for errors by the contractor or one of the other consultants when measurable and exreme damsge was caused. Seldom though.

Yes Iv'e got the wrong thing. I will go to JDP though, as they will fetch the correct part and don't need me to fill a number in from a vague description.

On a lighter note. I was searching for Aquaflow's website to see details (none found). But I came across this from a similarly named business who are remarkably frank about their products. Aquaflowproducts.co.uk we are a wholesale distribution company who are involved in the distribution of spurious shower and water pump spare parts / spares

yes that's right. and I think you are right about it being unusual. I now think I've got the wrong thing, and it is for connecting to internal copper or plastic plumbing. it read properly in the TS catalogue but i think a thinner skinned pipe would push in further. I will go to a proper shop (JDP) and they will give me the right thing. Fortunately I first put a stopcock on the branch so there is no panic.

Ok. I remain surprised at the vagueness. I wonder if any have blown away this last week.

I've repaired the mains leak. now i need to reconnect the outside tap, so I've got one of these, in the reducing size. The left hand fits no bother. what is shown here is the complete thing. The right hand part though, which is the smaller end, has 3 bits inside it, a rubber seal washer, a hard plastic washer and a serrated metal washer. Or it did until they fell out in random order. I've tried 3 different ways and there is no seal (the water comes out of the end.) From what i have tried, the pipe simply goes in the hole until it stops, and there is no 'second push', to slot in a precise hole. I have only hand tightened so far, but believe it was tight enough. which order for these parts please? I also see conflicting views on putting ptfe on the thread. that doesn't seem to be the issue though.

Do they quote any particular spec for the screw? This does need proper calculation, for pullout resistance and for tensile failure.

presumably they would lose their accreditation. More seriously they, and anyone else who has not been supervising properly, could be sued for the reduction in value in the property.

Likewise, and i'm so grateful you got me to look into that. The vast majority of my projects were using a highly superior system. either they ensured the strips were added by kingspan, and others, or the spec has diminished and it is now optional, Well, that is fraud isn't it? I did detect t that from one tester. Casually asking what number i was hoping for. Architects like pretty. Other peoples money.

my 120m2 basement cost £100k in 2015 so no more expensive, But there would be no windows, and various other simplifications. If it's a garage or plant room, of course it is plainer. The muckaway cost itself could be very high ( location) , but is possibly shown elsewhere as site prep. 120m2 x 3m x 1.3 bulking. say 500m3 or 25 lorries to load, transport and tip.