saveasteading

You can't ignore it. At the very least you must write and say that you are not happy and why. It sounds as if they have done what was required. The issue seems to be who is managing the process and who reports to who? If we could see the initial brief and instructions to and between all parties, then we could understand the situation. That is what your lawyer or claims surveyor would do, at some cost. . They will also assess how much you have lost through this process, which may be nil. Cheaper is for you or a friend to run openmindedly through the paperwork and summarise who said what. In particular look at the initial design...was it an overview or detailed?

As @Blooda says. Here is the tech drawing so you can check the dimensions. What do you plan to do?

It depends perhaps whether this was general advice or detailed design. As @Moonshine this is perfectly feasible in block, but needs detailed design . I've done a basement and chose to use a proprietary block system into which went reinforcement and concrete, rather than standard blocks. But it needs very specialised and expensive waterproofing if it is to be an occupied space. On the other hand, a reinforced concrete wall, designed as if for a swimming pool, water tank or reservoir is feasible too, and may need less waterproofing measures. Cost difference? It depends on a lot of variables. Without seeing the detailed design and covering correspondence, and the client brief, and understanding of the contract and supervision responsibilities, we can't really comment on the design suitability, and I probably wouldn't choose to anyway.

I'm rather amazed that the manufacturers haven't found a standard solution for this, as it is a common question, and would concern me. If there was one, they would supply it or even apply it at the factory. I'd be concerned about any (even a few mm) eps being exposed to air or earth too, as rodents and insects could burrow a cosy home. Perhaps find a screw/ rivet type fixing that can expand deep in the eps to form a grip?

An access chamber needs to be accessible so if it's not, then that would be a bc failure in itself. The testing kit costs £40 or so, though there are better (as in ease and robustness) for about £60. Your builder not having one is a worry. @ProDaveis correct that there should be ways to do all runs. If any is really a problem, then at a push, the bco may accept that you plug the downstream ends, fill with water at the appliance end, and observe that it doesn't reduce. There is no reason why there should be leaks without some bodging going on, so it should all pass. BTW when we did ours, I tested each run before moving on. That's plain common sense. As it happens the bco trusted us and didn't want to observe another test. I guess ' why would we cheat ourselves).

They were probably that colour originally, and will fade and attract moss, but could be a clash for few years. If you can demonstrate that the original tiles are, for example, Redland ' heather' then I don't think you can do better than use the same, even if currently brighter. Sell it to the planner as an upbeat proposal of doing what's best.

That's often said. It's relative though. With a practical design, good builders and good management it will be faster , better and cheaper than without.

On the other hand, don't mess with valley gutters. So paint it for a quick fix, but get it fixed in better weather.

I'd first try bitumen paint, encouraging it into the cracks then a couple more coats. I recall there is a product with fibres in it which would help clog the holes. I'm assuming these are cracks or small holes not big holes.

Houses are the shape they are for very good reasons, mostly keeping the weather out. Any variations such as flat roofs, fancy shapes and novel materials are a cost and a risk. Go for it if you've plenty of budget and don't mind some problems.

I've looked again at the English reg's. My interpretation is that the huge drainage field only applies to septic tanks, and that treatment plant outflow does not need further treatment. ie not 20% reduction but 100%. It doesn't say that it is not necessary, but the drainage field is applied only to the section on septic tanks, It is silent on the matter in the treatment tanks section other than that outflow must be 10m min from building or watercourse. That fits with the @ProDavelogic above. That's certainly what I've worked to before in England. I think the 20% thing used to apply but has disappeared at some stage.

Correct by the BCO. Nonsense by Puraflow. If the ground can't absorb it, then it will overflow and run on the surface. Puraflood. The volume isn't high, but still has to be catered for. This is a remnant from when treatment tanks were a new thing. Septic tanks emit a still filthy but very active liquid, and the vast area of the gravel surfaces allows it to cling to gravel and degrade, They allowed a very ungenerous 20% reduction in area for properly treated water.I designed for this and we installed phase 1, but we haven't got round to Phase 2, and the BCO still says he has never seen as much as we put in. I've looked at the liquid coming out of modern tanks (I've done 4, I think) , and it looks clean and doesn't smell. They have rightly stopped suggesting you could drink it though!

Doing commercial and education projects , where our company took over from the clients' consultants, our electrician usually suggested that the mains supply be reduced, typically halved. The consultants apparently didn't want to hear of the project again, so estimated way to high. Other peoples' money. I didn't know that. Isn't a 3 phase cable rather different and more expensive?

That is unusually pragmatic, good sense. Also, after a dry spell the first 'flush' for perhaps a week will all rest in the soakaway for a while. as the ground either gets wet again or not. BUT I've just looked at the Puraflo website. Firstly using peat is sustainable?? More importantly I can't see why anyone should need one*. A product in search of a need. The output from a modern treatment tank is close to clean. The percolation field or soakaway is to let it soak away, not clean it further, although it will do that too.. Water that has gone through a secondary or tertiary treatment plant is no less in volume, so still needs the same soakaway or stream. Or am i missing something? * to be fair, this could be added to an existing septic tank instead of replacing it, but so could a treatment tank.

Why can't you get some noggins between these studs? Just bits of 2 x 2 timber jammed in? @markc is right. I just thought you might as well. Can you fit soft buffers?

I'd want £3k to do a proper design and no supervision. It could be much less if you've a good builder who knows how to do it, or if you read up all the regulations yourself. Try googling architectural technician, or services. Or building drawings. Architect is a protected title. Going right to the boundary creates msny issues. £40k diy feels right assuming a practical design.

I'd say that the tiling itself probably adds enough stiffness to stop deflection. But, is it worth the risk? Better to use a thicker backing board. Perhaps noggins to stiffen it. And add soft buffers to the door.

Is that the sort of capacity that would allow everything on at the same time and a bit to spare? Is there any sort of rule of thumb? Base level plus x/m2? Factor for new build or old?

Without grout looks like a pile of bricks and spider hotel, to me.

We got similar from Topps. Big discount for what they call a pallet order, which I think means too much for the car. I think this can vary by region and branch. Still close to £30/m2 but it's classy. All long tiles bend and you need a wedge and clip system to lay them, which will add a few£ /m2. You must see an opened pack to look closely at the pattern. Does it look like a print or wood? How many repeats? Real wood has zero repeats. The shop people don't necessarily ' get it' that this may matter. The display panels can even have coincident patterns which shows they don't understand. But that's me, and maybe it doesn't matter to you, or visitors or future buyers. With 15 to 20 patterns and reversing you have 30 to 40 ways.

For precast plank floors remember that you need artic and crane access. For 8m span they'll be about 200mm thick then insulation and screed above. I agree that considering the build method is worth considering early, but also that there can be too much detail. Can I ask what draws you towards precast panel walls? I'm not against it, but it wouldn't be my first choice. 2.5 storeys is tall and skinny. Where are you with planning permission?

Got any pictures? I haven't heard of this. Tolerance adjustment seems one very good reason for a grout gap.

Might that be 450m2 or 4500ft2?

The secret is is to call it something else. Not beige either. Having watched paint mixing close up on many occasions it has struck me how tiny were some of the additions of a particular dye. Whether the last drop clung to the nozzle or went into the mix would make a big difference. The crud dried around the nozzles should all have been in someone's tin. Even different batches from the same supplier can be diffferent. If you have to change paint supplier or even batches, it is impossible to see it if applied to different planes. So change at a room corner, or anywhere with a break, duch as a door or curtain.

The principle is to not have the drains take any load from the building. In approx terms the loads spread at 45° into the earth from the bottom of the foundation. so keep drains above that notional line. But there's a very strong chance of damaging the drain if in early. So work out where it's going but do it later. If there isn't room then ask again.