saveasteading

2.4m depth would apply at about 2m tree distance and reducing to a minimum at 24m in clay. So yours seems appropriate. I would suggest that any other heave precautions should be on an 'as built' drawing for your records and you should insist on getting them. The proprietory heave products are expensive so I'm surprised you did not get get a big extra charge. Plus I'd like to know what it is. I've built hundreds of buildings in clay. Never used clayboard or similar. It should be the SE who advises on that not bco. I should clarify. I've seen a floor slab fail for the lack of clayboard. Not a footing though.

I guess they need to write some stuff. A one liner saying there was nothing to report wouldn't justify the fee

I think more likely to keep roots out of the concrete pour. Or just something he's come to like.

Was the arbori etc giving recommendations rather than requesting conditions be applied? The planner wouldn't have imposed vonditions unless some were clearly recommended. I'd check any drawings for any noyes too. Pruning seems a strange recommendation.

First of all it's a narrow crack, so for monitoring, not panic. A pound coin in the gap is a decent guide. Something has moved differentially but the absence of cracking in the render suggests it might have been shrinkage during construction of the footing. The willow is dormant so the ground, presumably clay, is expanding if anything. Was the ground dry during construction? When you say " heave protection" what do you mean? The depth is already providing that for the foundation.

Welcome. The good news is there are thousands of these to almost standard design. And that most are still there. First question to you is whether the chimney breasts have been removed. And try to find out if the neighbour's has been removed. There were probably 2 on each floor (count chimney pots). Second. Can you see the air bricks at front and back? You'll get plenty of sensible advice here. Let the questions roll.

The issue with a joined duct and shared inline fan is that turning on one light will operate both extractors, perhaps wasting lots of heat. As to ventilaion, the air is being replaced, probably under the door, and so is coming from somewhere else, unless the house is sealed. But first check that the fan is working. Does it suck a spread tissue and hold it? It should do that easily. Next try a dry j cloth.

I must agree that poor websites are worse than no website. But not that, unless it shows false information. But it will more likely be something else that must remain confidential. If they told you, you might be duty-bound to advise your broker so best leave it there perhaps. It's their risk so their decision.

But that is surely what you need. You give them the geometry, then they translate it to what they do, suffigient for a costing. Then if they get the job they will do more detail. That is design. Where things can get complicated is special features like high ceilings, fancy roof shapes or big open spaces. I expect I'm still not understanding the problem, if there is one. These companies could be doing free detailed designs full time if they weren't cautious like this.

Have they told you what the problem is with your current design? It's possible that 1. The timber people can design a solution 2. A modification to the geometry does away with the problem. Which might take a practical Architect just a few hours. But then does it have to go back to planning? NB. Steels or other big beams are normally excluded from quotes.

If if was a big hole, a damp rag on a stick brings out the last of the dust. For yours perhaps a cotton bud! BUT. Trade tip, once you've squirted or forced the mixed resin into the hole you must push the rod in slowly while rotating it slowly.otherwise the resin scooshes out. Also this turns any dust into harmless filler. Then support the bolts horizontally....maybe need some bits of of stick for that. Look at the resin instructions for times for handling. Very slow in cold, very fast in the warm.

Lucky you, I'm sure some bcos take to interesting projects and their people. Our Highland one says it's nice to follow the interesting project that is so different to all the mass development. Don't expect too much, as they are inspectors not advisors. The building regulations are open to all, so it is all in there. If you have conventional construction and the layout is already appropriate then there isn't much to detail.

If it is on the planning drawing as new or upgraded then it is zero or reclaimable. The contractor may not have encountered this before, and you should probably have told them before. It may be a novelty to their book keeper too. It's bad for the contractor's cashflow too, with quarterly vat returns. It is their risk to accept that they will get the vat back, ie that your project and their part of it comply. You'll need to show them the rules on an official government page, and be diplomatic and sympathetic. Agreeing to pay promptly may help a lot. Eg give me the invoice with zero vat and i will pay same day.

Because there is only thermal mass and no insulation. However, that works in hot climates, absorbing the sun on the outside, shedding the heat at night.

That can apply if the work is of benefit beyond your own project. For example i had an industrial client and it needed a new trandormer (one of those big ones, fenced off. They quoted many tens of thousands, but a specialist got that halved as there was spare capacity for future development. Clearly the electric company was trying it on. Might that appply to you? Also look further afield. Is there other power nearby?

It might be worrh looking into Rawl mesh sleeves. They are made for weak, danaged and irregilar holes. Please look them up first as it might not work for your situation.

I suspect the TV programme owned up to the spoof.

Mine have supposedly just been stripped to get them working again. The guy said to buy the proper oil, not wd40 so that is promising. Are you suggesting I strip and reassemble now as an exercise, or wait til it needs it? Is it something to do every x nails? I haven't got the bits I need yet, so won't be using them for a while. They are for a forthcoming project.

A sump pump is not expensive. IF there is somewhere to pump water to, it could be a good investment, as they all sell out when you need them.

You could smack out the tiles in the dubious areas and see what's underneath. Bitumen paint that and replace with any old tile. Then overtile. Tile adhesive seems to stick to anything. Bug you score / abrade thd surface to break the glaze. If there is a damp issue then the old tiles might come off reasonably easily, and that would be the better job.

Was that a rather complex design? Is it roofed and sealed to avoid becoming a reservoir?

When might I want to save 0.4mm of steel and choose 2.8mm? Every little helps save the planet I suppose and percentage-wise will be a lot.

I don't know what this is. Does the nail disappear into the wood if this is set wrongly? I've just been looking at the vast choice of nails. Something else to get an understanding of. I can't see why there is a choice of 2.8mm or 3.2mm. Is that significant?

Explain please? Where does that very small number come from? Structural Engineering is physics, isn't it? We add 20% ish contingency just in case, although some of that is weather and quality. So more like your medicine figure. It so annoys me when lay people (the polite term) argue that ' scientists don't even agree on' ....climate change, viruses, etc. It's science until 100% proven at which stage it becomes fact and stops being science?

Removing internal walls in a listed building needs permission too.