saveasteading

Bolts would go through the crowns, but screws usually go through the bottom to clamp it tight. Silicon will suffice but make sure it is external quality. Its use is usually as a bodge. For a better job get the best screws. They are designed do that the seal is along the thread. The rest of the washer to cladding interface is for pressure not a seal, although ig helps. You should get them from a fixings specialist. If the hole has ended up too big, use a wider diameter. So choose big names like hilti and pay 3 times as much.

I've only seen them work properly in light rain with no wind. Assuming it is as a feature rather than practical, you could have a proper downpipe elsewhere and limit the flow to the chain. The limiting factor in a downpipe is the hopper. Once the water is dropping it is a small proportion of the cross section, clinging to the side, hence a chain can handle it if the flow is limited.

I'd consider it with someone else's money. I've seen this and other continental materials promoted in UK, but you'd want a uni or the old unbiased bre to test it for real. Drier by a distance I think.

If you strip the topsoil along with all the vegetation, and pile it high, then it rots and is nicer topsoil to put back down. Ie don't bother separating out the vegetation. Find out about the soil makeup and water table ASAP, before any commitment to building an inside out swimming pool.

I started but didn't get far. Looking forward to your summary.

If you have drawing skills, then that is your best way forward. Drawing a scale cross section of the eaves showing wall and roof will clarify the options.

There's a magic height for fill of 4 feet at which planning matters can kick in. Or if you are in a conservation area. Otherwise it is good practice to avoid muck away. Where else would it be going? A much more effective way to reduce cost is to not have a basement.

Regardless of the rules, I like a hearth with edging to catch embers when loading, and retain ash.

I will have to re-read. I thought the concensus therein was that it wasn't worth doing because of limited battery capacity relative to cost.

I've read it now. It is a proposed wierd addition to the normal application process. A 'street' can propose a development. Then there is a referendum on it, with registered voters from that street and nearby. 60 % approval needed. I can't see any logical reason for this.

I'd say ashp was more proven than solar. The number of days that a well designed house needs cooling is very low. Open a window unless it's 30° outside. But the heat pump is there for these 3 nights a year.

I no longer use the screws supplied for wall fixings. Some Chinese factory has often saved 1p by supplying inferior fixings. It's worth buying the known brands I think. The same probably applies to screw extractors. I had some from Aldi and they worked once ( one screw) and wore out. If these are furniture kit hinges then the carcase may not take the fixing. I saw some handy repair brackets especially for this purpose, but where?

Fix the roof rather than changing the bucket. I may have a look for the excellent explanatory sketch of moisture in a masonry wall...but I think I said that a week ago.

That's consistent with what is said of lime. Lime plaster should be stippled to increase the surface area. Smoothed and polished surfaces therefore have refuced surface area and be less breathable. Poishing will remove all texture and decrease the surface area. Will it also force dust into crevices, closing porse and making it denser?

I put down a platform of rubble then gravel grids. At the corners and mid length I replaced with a paving slab to allow a screw fixing to a dead weight. The platform is abut 100mm bigger each side than the greenhouse. So it simply sits on it. The gravel allows it to absorb spills, and in scorching weather it can be soaked to reduce temperatures. I put in a layer of geomembrane to stop weeds coming through.( Actually I used some old vapour barrier) . I'd do the same again. It may move seasonally but it is totally flexible so I wouldn't know.

Is it like when the local TV news talks to 'the public'. It's who they can find in the high street at 2.00 on a wet Tuesday, that is prepared to state an opinion. The interesting and informed people are doing something useful somewhere.

How unfair on community representatives. A spokesperson has been selected to represent the group, whether by pushing themselves to the front or being asked to. We need them. A busybody, assuming the derogatory interpretation, is not an official spokesperson. Is it better to be steamrollered by government? I am an interested and well meaning member of the community. People with alternative aims are busybodies.

There are woodburners with back panels to reduce the rear heat. Then there is the physical gap where air will heat and rise into the room. I suppose I'm saying leave it exposed.

Ok thats clear. Either/or. A protected route will always be the aim if the layout allows.

Correct. Hence flanking sounds through tiny weaknesses in a wall construction, and the difference between a door closed or not quite.

It reminds me. The building regs used to be in a huge lever arch file. A couple of times i took this in to heavy meetings with a bco, and placed it on the table at the start. I could see their discomfort immediately. They knew that at some stage i would refer to it, or ask them to show me where it said what they were arguing. Only when they were being unreasonable or plain wrong. Only with LA ones as it happens. Fire protection of a basement stair was one such.

I've done it but it is tricky. I think it looks passable at best but nobody else seems to notice. I deliberately left curves trowel strokes, in the Mediterranean style. 2 coats is best, the first disguising the undulations and pointing. If you get stuff with latex in the mix it helps. Then grow plants in front of it.

Can't remember, some county council page. It will be in the regulations. I had a big meeting on the su jecr once, with 2 bcos vying for who was the tougher. My technique for complex things in thd regs is to photocopy the relevant clauses then highlight the crucial bits and arrows making a cogent summary....or emphasising inconsistency.

Just from a quick search, so not definitive. Basically one stair is OK but needs to be a protected route. Maybe sprinklers come to the rescue as thd original point. If you cannot provide a secondary fire escape, the staircase will need to end up in a fire protected hallway with a door direct to outside.

In a standard house I think a single stair is fine. Going up instead of coming down, so what's the difference? It might need to be fire protected....plasterboard under. Rules change acc to the number of storeys though. It's all in the building regulations but not especially easy to follow. I recommend ploughing through it, as I could easily be misremembering.