saveasteading

It's the best time to check. Presumably you've had record rainfall like everywhere else. So if it's OK now it will be until the next fludde.

Sudden thought. With that slope, any water teaching the gravel will travel down the slope to the return at the bottom. You must have at least one outlet there or it will build up locally.

In Scotland there is no building notice option. If you absolutely know what you are doing, then this is a pain and a huge delay. As a strong positive, the risk of disagreement is removed before the start. Even more of a difference is the need for a designer to be on the register: no diy. It's not a closed shop but for a single project it wasn't worth me registering and we had to use a local engineer....another story.

This is all necessary site preparation to keep the staff safe and well. It is sensible to design it to then be appropriate for the project. Eg it avoids the use of chemical toilets.

Ideally there would be hollow blocks and reinforcement, or some other stiffening. But it's not high and you are draining the water. It will be OK.

The gravel let's the water flow to the weepholes. So it's OK. Geotextile folded back and between the gravel and topsoil presumably? And relax.

Says a company keen to sell ufh. That will lose a lot of heat. With only the floor slightly improved, 8% perhaps. But you will improve the roof and walls and windows, and that floor loss will become 80%. I would say ufh on 20mm of eps is a very bad idea. Even upgrading to pir would double the benefit, but 20mm is still not remotely enough. So it seems you have been given bad advice. BTW. Welcome.

No. Geotextile is permeable. Its function is to keep muck and clean stone separate. The pressure is reduced by having weep holes through the wall.

Welcome. Your input may be very useful.

It's a guess due to the scale ( a long shot, due to the long shot. Sorry) It may simply be lichen caused by rain dribbling slowly from the assembly, and some shelter from the wind, and thus the roof being wet for longer.

I just came across this. Unverified. Out of the box Starlink consumes 120-150 watts. With a DC conversion the consumption drops to 36-72 watts.Jul 17, 2023

I'd suggest giving the fire alarm some thought. As developed for recent Scottish regulations, these are now wireless and cheap. You'd need a plan and the bco agreement but I'd think it might be accepted.

In a closed space , the discarded air needs to be replaced through an open door or under it if there is enough gap. But a corrugated duct and restrictions such as bends and a small outlet are likeliest. Has it ever worked properly? Original question.. Yes you can plug it in the adjacent room.

Is there any advantage in fitting fibre cable between the elements and as distribution? If there is, is it a diy job?

The issue is simple enough. Can residents get safely from that room to exit without going past the fire? Non disruptive options might be to give very early warning using a fire alarm from the kitchen to the room. Or sprinklers on the route or for the kitchen.

So this: The dispute resolution process will also start if they don’t respond to your notice within the given time. Much as a friendly chat is to be preferred, you might have to get formal of it will drift indefinitely. For formality you could either send it by tracked post, or email, or put it through the letterbox with a witness. Then the 14 days. There's nothing to lose, and they might even agree.

But what is the ground temperature under the slab of an unheated building? 11° perhaps?

You could say to visitors...this used to be interesting but we hid it. Other relevant matters. How much of it will be garage or otherwise unheated space? Will it be subdivided by (insulated) walls? Are you building over the top? Or what I'm getting at is: does it need much insulation to external walls and floor?

That's practical of course, but the interest is gone. And the arches decorated in moorish style?

I've gone to the trouble of researching this in Spain for you. The land where all issues are hidden by render or tiles. They would leave a shadow gap so that any differences in alignment do not show up, and no overlaps. I think there is first a general base coat on which a batten is fixed. Then top coat up to it. Or perhaps simply a coat of render is sneezed into place with the batten. Btw The white bead on the left used to be an external corner so isn't relevant.

How splendid. Building regulations document Z for converting a ziggurat. If it was me, I think I'd do it all inside and keep the look. It would be the same principles as converting a stone building. In Scotland the regulations allow pragmatism: "as far as reasonably practicable" is often stated. In England it isn't, but the building control officer may be pragmatic. We worried about losing internal space but it was the right decision. Yes, there will be a cold bridge through the arches but they are a stunning feature. Are you keeping the pump?

Good point. Sometimes galvanised steel has a paraffin coating to ease it through the factory rolling process. So it's worth a wipe beforehand.

I got this as part of an ad, in an email from Build-it. I wonder at what stage, if any, they point out that it isn't necessarily true, and isn't suitable in clay.

I'm the kitchen skivvy, so it's my opinion too.

Hoorah. We can all relax. 😃