saveasteading

Was it a ground (as in with a grinder) finish with the surface removed and stones exposed? I think you must then seal the surface with a special varnish to make it look bright and cheerful, and to keep stains from soaking in. Even water will emphasise any microcracks, which are unavoidable. Any random cracking would then look awful, so it is quite a skill. So have I. Very useful for not falling through, even with a forklift. I admit never having tried for a pretty one other than by applying a topping of mineral or epoxy....or tiles.

I have used Marsh Industries tanks 3 times, and always sucessfully. Their design advice is straight forward. I like the compactness esp shallowness. The only moving part is a tiny air pump like on an aquarium. The outfall may have to be negotiated but a pragmatic bco should be OK.

I doubt it. The moisture is already there in the ground. It should permeate downwards and away unless there is another source. It's debatable though. If there is a healthy draught through the void it will clear the air, and chill the floor above it.

Another thing is change. Selling will bd easier if it is your own. Neighbours change too. Could get worse. Will you need building regs? And you control the spec, contractor, price, maintenance.

Have you seen any examples? I am sceptical that it is a suitable finish.

Treatment tank on your own land sounds like the optimum. A septic tank could not outfall to ditch anyway. There are lots of sizes, including shallow.

Great advice above. Don't have heebie jeebies. Ask the vendors for any building control approvals and the drawings.

Not really. Piles are for getting through poor ground onto something stronger. Wet clay is usually ok for strength , just messy to work on as @Jilly says. There are lots of solid buildings in The Somme.

It is normal. You are right that it might encourage a crack on that line, but it shouldn't if the concrete is good. And it won't matter anyway. What are the odds of hitting a bar? With isoquick perhaps quite high but I don't know your details. The odd rod being cut won't matter either OR the anchor being a tad less deep. That is an advantage of threaded rod and epoxy...it cuts as required. But a hit fix will be very much quicker.

All the above. And then it is OK to spread a dpm over the whole area. It will stop evaporation and dampness into the void. Shpuld not even be close. Keep 50mm min below the air bricks and dpm. It is a common issue that the ground level rises over decades, (leaves and muck ) even without paving being added.

Do not use short fixings. The first 25mm or so is discounted in calculations. After that it is approximately the square of three depth. So you must keep the depth. The occasional clash with a bar is normal

And report back please?

Do one check. If you have the space, (say 25m or more) Set the machine up and measure the difference between two surfaces equidistant at about 180 degrees. . Then move the laser close to one of them and repeat (one close surface, one distant). . It should be much the same answer, but a few mm out is to be expected. If it more than that, we question whether it is the machine or the method. It is good practice too.

That is my unspoken concern. Using lasers , people seem to think everything will be fine. I've had huge errors by letting them get on with it. Lots of block cutting, as usually the concrete is too high. I'm maybe old fashioned but I like working levels to be pre-marked. eg battens up to footing level, or nails banged into trench sides. (or proper motorway stuff of profiles.) Then they are just pouring concrete, not juggling a staff as well. Or you watch their skill level and do the odd check after hours. The equipment benefits too as it isn't covered in concrete or knocked or driven over. More advice upon request after you've searched the interweb for advice.

Do you see this as a business opportunity? Buy bricks in small batches (but whole pallets as a minimum). slice 2 faces off them. allow wastage sell each on at the same price as a single brick. (I'm guessing here) dispose of centres as hardcore. package and deliver. I'm really not surprised that it isn't commercially viable to sell 2m2 for a fireplace. I have found whole bricks to be much cheaper, if you have the room and details to suit.

I don't know what you will be using it for. Just to say that the seemingly accurate range can wander off if used too casually. The way you use it too. Are there instructions about, for example, equal backsight and foresight? Maybe I value accuracy more than most. Houses are very approximate usually, and mostly it isn't a big deal. Drains not running is important though.

Probably? I would perhaps paving slab or gravel over it, so that it is accessible.

So called specialist installers can be surprisingly ignorant technically. What if the mvhr breaks down? We don't design for that. A serious talk with the plumber or a change of.

another way is to form a V with the paving, and a channel along the low point, whether a drain or slab, then picked up at the ed. best avoid using the name Aco unless you really want that brand. it is good stuff and priced accordingly. there are economy plastic versions which are fine when not driven on. I withdraw that: Aco seem to have one at £12/m do you need all these RWPs? Have you a spec and price for the borehole? that could be costly.

good point. but if the water is only for gardening it will be ok. But not for domestic use. It is in your control, to not use nasty chemicals. Is there an overflow and where does that go?

Here is a core, 6" as designed, and the others are thicker. There is often about 5mm of paste on the surface from overworking, but this is concrete all the way. A sandier mix than I expected but it is gritty and strong.

No camera holding assistance is forthcoming as I head off to do the fifth and final hole. The task requires 2 hands and 2 feet. But here is a pic of the setup. The transformer position is for temp stability.

If the machine is idle or disconnected, is the transformer still drawing current?

1. I would suggest finding an old (of the time) manual of building details, that will show how this is built. Second hand book shops, or online. What is the issue that the current tiling needs to be replaced? 'all-round poor quality job' sounds awful. 2.Perhaps this is your starting point. First find your roofer. 3. I hope your self confidence is justified. this is a very big undertaking physically and technically. Meanwhile, while the tiles are off, the rain will be getting in. You are going to need scaffolding, tarpaulins, tools, insurance and there is a risk of it going badly wrong as you learn on the job. A roofer sounds like a good investment, and maybe cheaper in the long run. They may do it in 8 weeks but you may take 20. Aren't we all. So choose a fair and knowledgeable one.

that is flat really. That is because you haven't dug it up during or just after a downpour. e water is going somewhere. The volume of the gaps between stones, plus the empty pipe is probably swallowing up all the water, so you would have to delve down to find water. It first runs through the gravel. If it gets deep enough it enters the pipe and some may run away. The rest will percolate downwards.