Jump to content

ETC

Members
  • Posts

    1673
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Everything posted by ETC

  1. It always amuses me to read posts like this - the old chestnut about architects and architectural consultants - and architects getting a hammering yet again! Try reversing the argument with the architect with 30 years of experience and the architectural technician fresh out of college doing a few “homers” in his bedroom at night knocking out a plan for a couple of hundred quid and most likely without PII. I know who I’d rather employ. Had a conversation with a colleague recently who employed his friend - an “architectural consultant” to help him do the plans and engage a builder. Completely forgot about CDM and a suitable contract and has now turned off his phone. Great friend. Give me a break!!!
  2. Can you put a couple of measurements on the plan?
  3. Why have you mixed timber frame with a masonry cavity wall construction? Timber frame will mostly get its thermal protection from insulation in the inner frame. 50mm Rockwool seems a bit thin for a cavity wall to achieve any decent U-Value. However - if the BBA Certificate says it can be used with brick then it can. Check out the BBA Certificate.
  4. Good luck trying to sue BC. Use the small claims court for the builder. Ask him directly for a refund if not go to the small claims court. I presume you don’t have a contract?
  5. Now that’s what I call a barn. And it’s in Suffolk!!!!
  6. Why on earth would anyone spend a shed (or in this case a barn) load of money on a house but pay peanuts to get it designed. If you’re going to invest a large sum of money in your home invest in a good architect. He or she will save you money in the long run.
  7. Sorry - looks terrible. A lot of wasted space, badly laid out rooms and unusable balconies (in this climate?). Very contrived elevations. Could be much, much better given to the right architect.
  8. I’ve just had a quick look at the contract. I think clause 5.3 snookers you into paying for the utilities. I also don’t think that this is a great contract. I see there is a Target Price - this is not fixed so you won’t know until the works are well underway what you are paying. No wonder the workers on site are taking their time. Who advised you to sign this contract?
  9. There should also be a programme of work showing what works have been completed by a certain date.
  10. How are these workmen employed? Do you employ them directly or have you employed a single contractor? Day rates are a big mistake in my view - there’s no incentive to complete the works. By the way do you have a contracted complete date and are there liquidated damages stated? (Do they still call them this?)
  11. It’s a bit ambiguous - are you responsible for the site or have you handed it over to a main contractor? If you have handed the site over to a main contractor he/she will be responsible for everything on the site and that should include all plant and materials including water and electricity. If however you are managing the site and you are responsible for the site security, materials stored and plant then I would suggest that the bill is yours unless you have a clause in the contract to suggest otherwise. Get those brass balls out and bat that bill right over to the contractor. Being liable to provide a service does not necessarily mean you are liable for the cost. Can you post your contract or post what type it is.
  12. Their work looks great. Look forward to seeing what they come up with. Good luck.
  13. Happy to have helped out in some small way. Looking forward to seeing what your architect produces. Care to share his/her work?
  14. Go and speak to an engineer.
  15. Thought it said machine gun there for a moment;)
  16. All structural steel - not just that on the ground floor - will need fire protection.
  17. What happens to a house over three floors?
  18. Check out the British Gypsum White Book before you do anything. You can’t just clad structural steel in plasterboard unless you follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions. https://www.british-gypsum.com/specification/white-book-specification-selector. For houses you will need 30 minutes fire resistance for all elements of structure except for a party/separating wall between dwellings which should be 60 minutes.
  19. As George says anything is possible if you have the budget. Don’t forget that moving the kitchen will also have implications for services and drainage.
  20. Sound resistance is not required to a wall with a door in it.
  21. A lot of Lidl stores are being built now with glulam frames.
  22. Highly likely that a frame of some sort will be required. Steel or glulam. External cavity blockwork is probably the best for a hall of this type. If you need some design help let me know.
×
×
  • Create New...