ProDave

You shouldn't be buying a new house then thinking of ways to bodge a fix to the builders error. I would tell them of your concerns and tell them you will buy it of they re do it properly but are not buying it like that.

Moving the CU to the other side of the wall and poking the cables through may well result in the cable drops no longer being in a safe zone. Easily rectified by say putting a socket on the wall in line with the line of the cable drops.

I would be asking how do you make a roof light a means of escape window? Perhaps English building regs don't require that?

I recessed a standard Hager metal CU. The Hager one had round conduit knock outs that with it recessed come out behind the plasterboard. The only real difference between a standard CU and one sold as recessed, is when you recess a standard one, you have to be accurate cutting the plasterboard around it as the front only overlaps a little. The ones sold as recessed tend to have a larger "flange" around the front to hide imperfections.

The point everyone is missing is this is DHW demand. Yes I can understand the modulation and PID limitations when heating, but the point I would be banging on abut is you have turned on a tap, it should be heating DHW with a completely different set of parameters and control algorithm. The fact it refuses to do that because it previously locked out doing something different thing is a FAULT with the programming. When it switches to DHW it should completely ignore what it may or may not have been doing previously and get on with the job of heating the hot water. Anything else is a design fault.

This is NOT a HMO. That requires planning permission and licencing to let rooms to multiple people. Letting a room or 2 in your own house to a lodger does not and you are still using it as your main residence.

But surely the basic issue is when you open a hot tap the boiler should forget heating mode, and switch, without issue, to hot water mode and heat the hot water to the required temperature. I would be saying you have had plenty of chance to fix this, and you have failed, so i want the boiler removed and a full refund given and I will replace with a different boiler.

That sounds like a lot of waffle that translates into: "There is a bug in the software that under certain heating situations, the controller is unable to switch over to hot water heating and just heat the hot water. And we don't know how to fix it" Anyone disagree?

Were they the frosty days? That is why we chose not to move to the west coast. Cold but dry is not so bad after all.

I often speculate how my house would perform if I just picked it up from here in the Highlands and put it down in say Cornwall close to the coast where frost is rare. It would certainly be cheaper to run. PHPP sets out a max heating requirement per square metre. Does that account for location, i.e. to meet that a house up here would need more insulation than one in Cornwall?

What is wrong with a wet room because you have young children? Make the whole room a wet room, and do as we have, the 2 screens around the shower in that corner hinge away flat against the walls when the shower is not in use leaving a huge open space.

So you already have RCD's in the CU. So I would be looking to verify the cable routing from the meter box to the CU to confirm it does not actually need RCD protection and swap that for a plain MCB in the meter box not an rcbo.

Get an electrician. It might not even need RCD protection on that cable depending on it's routing. Post a picture of the consumer unit in the house as well.

That's an RCBO I bet it is earth leakage tripping it, damp somewhere. How does that connect to the house? what sort of cable and over what distance? Do you have any test equipment like an insulation tester?

Post a photo of this "main trip" so we know what it is.

Always good to get that completion certificate.

That is just over thinking what will the PV power? On that dull day, it will power whatever happens to be on in the house at the time, and if there is any surplus after that it will divert excess to the immersion heater. It needs no user input to achieve that. So the key thing with solar PV (without battery storage) is move as many of your electrical loads as possible to the daytime. For instance I have my ASHP timed to only start DHW heating at 11AM. By then the sun should be up and PV generating. So at least some of what the ASHP is using is coming from the PV. And all big appliances get used near the middle of the day. And there is nothing wrong with the ASHP heating the DHW AND surplus going to the immersion heater as well at the same time. PV conflicts with a TOU tariff such as E7. The TOU tariff suggests you want to do as much as you can at night, PV says do as much as you can in the day. I don't personally like TOU tariffs, they come with a much higher day rate.

Ditto to the above. You need a LOT of insulation under UFH. There simply is not any easy retro fit on top system that will give good results.

Our low energy 150m2 house is using 1000kWh per year to heat DHW and 1500kWh per hear to heat the house, both measures are electricity consumed by the ASHP. So £280 for DHW and £420 for heating. We did once go away in winter and came back to the house at about 12 degrees with no heating and no people in it for 2 weeks. So even with incidental heating from occupying the house, I doubt it would be comfortable with no heating at all.

I guess it depends where you are. Up here in the Highlands no passive house will be comfortable in winter without any heating. My ASHP bills are not huge, and it is completely controlable including OFF

What make are the windows? I think, if you put an allen key up through the bottom of the hings pivot, you will find a grub screw there, that you can turn to jack the door up and down.

This if course is the advantage of a really well insulated house with a low decrement delay insulation. It just never heats up or cools down so quickly that you need to alternate between heating it and cooling it in the same week, let alone the same day.

What is the internal wall made of? Stud wall easy to recess a CU, single skin brick internal wall much more challenging to recess anything. The much larger job will be connecting all the circuits to the new CU.

Yes, a case of "be careful what you wish for (equality)"

Sorry but why should the WASPI women be compensated? The gist of what I am hearing in the news, is in spite of the change in SP age being announced many years before it came into effect, some are claiming they were not notified and it came as a shock to them and they had no time to make plans. do these people live in a bubble never watching any news or reading any newspapers? Nobody notified ME personally that the SP age for men would rise from 65 to 67 so I have just as much of a "claim" as the WASPI's