ProDave

The issue is what do you want? Solar PV generates power when the sun shines. That is not necessarily when you want it. If you have the freedom (retired, work from home etc) then you may well be able to use all the big appliances like washing machine etc in the day and heat your hot water in the day. For space heating, the problem is there is not enough sun when you need it most in the winter and possibly too much in the summer. In the past that was neatly solved by the FIT. You got paid for what you generated, so it didn't matter much, you were in effect using the grid as a battery. But now the FIT is so low, you get paid a lot less than the import rate. This brings into question is it now worth signing up to the FIT? My belief now is probably not. It's possible to buy a 4KW complete system for just over £2K and install it yourself. It would probably cost more than double that for an MCS install to claim the FIT. A quick search suggests at current FIT rates you are looking at a 14 year payback time. So you have to question is it worth it? Personally I intend to install at least 4WK of panels, sourced as cheap as I can, and DIY installed. I will focus om maximum useful yield rather than max total yield, siting one string facing east to start usable generation as early in the day as possible, and the second string facing south to take over as the sun moves round. Possibly a third smaller string facing west as well. That will reduce the total yield, but give a slightly more even and longer usable yield making the chance of self usage more likely. And the other element is looking at battery storage to try and store some of what I am unable to use.

My "out of the box" solution is a drip tray where you expect the leak and 2 electrodes to detect the presence of water.

It's no harder, probably easier in fact than a normal system boiler. Some plumbers may shy away believing it to be complicated. The expensive myth comes from the fact that in order to claim the RHI subsidy, you must have it installed by an MCS registered installer, who for some reason seem to charge a lot more than an ordinary plumber might (my plumber friend paid in the order of £10K supply and fit for his ASHP and HW tank). With a well insulated modern house it is doubtful of the RHI payments would even cover the extra cost of employing an MCS registered installer.

"He also has his own £18m grand project: a development of 109 new-build homes in Oxford. It will perhaps be a bigger challenge than most Grand Designs. McCloud's company, Hab, is aiming to create low-cost, affordable and sustainable homes that embrace an eco-vision that includes car clubs, cycleways and food collectives." Is that Graven Hill, or somewhere else?

having spent a week in a house with this sort of shower I would say I would most definitely NOT want it as my only shower. Personally I hate water falling on my head all the time with no option to get your head out of the water. Give me a wall mounted adjustable spray head any time, I can wet my head when I choose and just wet my body when I choose. All I am saying is find someone with this sort of shower and give it a try before you comit to that as your only shower. You may like it, you may not. As for the coloured lights. Pointless.

Excellent news and a real world example of the much improved air quality that mvhr provides. It would be interesting to know which mvhr unit, and is it standard filters or did you specify special filters?

We are having an external balcony. A timber structure supported on 2 legs and fixed to the wall. It gives the outside space for the few days you can use it without any compromises to the room. We did consider extending the roof out above it but decided the extra complication and expense was not worth it. After all if the weather is right to use it, you won't need a roof over it.

I went for 38 degrees rather than the building regs max 42 degrees. How many more years will that give me?

Forget electric showers unless you like showering under a dribble. If mains gas is available then it's a no brainer. Decent size combi or system boiler and unvented hot water tank. I would go UFH Wet UFH downstairs, radiators everywhere else with individual trv's so can be turned up / down / off as required or even UFH throughout on all floors. Remember a key feature of UFH is an individual thermostat for every room so unused rooms turned right down and your bedroom set to your cool temperature.

Hi and welcome. The Sun amp's main feature is much lower standing heat loss and smaller size than a conventional tank. There are several on here using them. I think most here would suggest quality tripple glazed windows. The likes of Internorm, Nordan, Rationel and many others are all worth considering. A lot depends on any special requirements and what finish you want. Remember if having mvhr order the windows without trickle vents.

Absolute minimum of 2, otherwise what do you do when No 1 is on charge. If you are only using 1 tool at a time that would suffice. But if you have a helper using another tool at the same time, then that need 2. So simple answer is 2 per tool in use. Now determine how many tools are likely to be in use at any one time.

It's the cost of some battens. You will have the OSB anyway (or whatever you change it for) so omitting the service void just mean you put the plasterboard straight onto the OSB. It then makes it a pain to run cables through the frame (drilling the web of the I beams) and then cutting through the OSB and plasterboard for back boxes. Then there is the issue of making it all air tight. I have omitted the service void in a couple of places where I know there are no services (stairwell head wall and bathroom outside wall) just to gain an extra 25mm in the rooms, but all other rooms have the service void.

The designer of my house specified OSB3 as both the racking layer and the air tight layer (with taped joints) on the inside of the frame. I later decided to add a proper air tight membrane on the inside over the OSB. Then later the structural engineer upgraded it to 2 layers of OSB to give the required racking strength. Definitely stick with a service void. If changing the external layer, check with your SE re racking strength, particularly if moving from a T&G product to a square edge product.

If you must have oil filled http://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=oil filled radiator But they are more expensive than convector heaters this is the one that is still on special offer http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pel00022/convector-heater/dp/HG0091607?ost=hg0091607&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-CPC%2FCPC_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch I bought 3 of them to keep the caravan warm. There is also a version with a timer built in for slightly more http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pel00023/convector-heater-with-timer-turbo/dp/HG0091707?ost=hg0091707&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-CPC%2FCPC_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch

Why oil filled? I already mentioned the cheap convector heaters CPC had on offer recently. If you want I will find the link again.

My key mantra is leave it safer than it was before I started. Sometimes it may not be perfect but a hell of a lot better than it was.

Was it wind or waves that pushed the wall over and the window in?

I would be very surprised if building control will allow the sub floor slab to be lower than ground level. up here it WOULD fill with water sooner or later and you would have to make provision to remove that. This was something BC were very particular about here that the slab level could not be higher than ground level. This was addressed in our case by creating a trench along the front of the house containing a French Drain that runs around the side of the house to the back. It only works because of the sloping site and ground level at the back is a lot lower than the slab.

Simple answer is BS7671 is not "the law" just one way to comply with it. There has to be a bit of common sense. e.g a Crabtree rcbo would be no more or less likely to catch fire in a wylex box than a crabtree box. Those components are sold in the UK by a trade only distributor. To make up an all rcbo set up like that costs roughly double the price of a standard split load twin rcd setup, and for me unfortunately most of my customers I have offered that to reject the cost and opt for the standard twin rcd split load board.

I might be getting confused with members but were you not the one having lots of issues with the build? I could be confused after driving 11 hours today. Yes it's technically okay but not what I would expect if you were having a "rewire"

As others have said, it's technically okay but not perfect. I would not expect it on a "rewire" I sometimes do similar things when doing alterations if it can save a lot of work or trashing the decor, but I always discuss the options and pros and cons with the customer. Sadly yet another example of the generally poor work you have had done.

I did a house with a built in vacuum system. I got the impression from the owners that unwinding and fighting g with a very long hose was far more troublesome than using g an upright vacuum cleaner.

How did you fix the pavatherm. I would have expected lots of those big plastic screw things. Also what are you doing to give the frame racking strength. I don't see anything yet

You seem to me making the "mistake" of having the FFL level with the outside ground. I would not want a suspended floor like that. For a start how do you ventilate it? Aim for the bottom of the suspended floor structure to be slightly above ground level. Then your frame can start at FFL or even a bit below, not raised up as you have it. I am not even sure that would pass building control. We had to ensure the floor underbuild had to be brought up to at least outside ground level.

Like I tried so say before, if you try and partition the eaves as a cold space, then yes you will be heating a smaller volume, but chances are it will be so hard to get the detail right that you will lose more heat into the cold eaves space and end up with a higher heating bill.