ProDave

Oh and as I say so many times on the Electricians forum, if you are going to change a light fitting, identify all the wires, take pictures, and draw a diagram BEFORE you remove the old light fitting.

You already said they were twisted together so they stay that way, and if the light fitting has an earth, connect them to that.

OUCH £90.46 when I ordered mine, now £174.97. Cue someone to Brexit.

Don;t use the terms "live, neutral" etc, just stick to colours, e.g a blue may not always be neutral I am going to take an educated guess. Cable 1 and cable 3 are the feed in and feed out. cable 2 is the switch drop. Because there was a fan and a light, they used 3 core. So start with joining cable 1 brown, cable 3 brown, and cable 2 brown together in a junction that goes nowhere else. Cable 1 blue and cable 3 blue join together to the light fitting N terminal Cable 2 black is the switched L for the fan. It is no longer needed so connect it to a terminal all on it's own. cable 2 grey is the light switched L connect it as you have done to the light fitting L

Yes I have 2 (only one fitted so far) The flow rate is so good, I am astounded at how quick SWMBO has a shower now. She says it is so quick to rinse the shampoo out of her hair, that used to take ages in the old shower.

Yes that pigtail of wire is one of the multiple earths of a PME system. If you ever see the work n a new pole where a new transformer is installed they run a new LV earth in one direction, and an HV earth in the other in the trench You can leave your rod connected, I have one at out house, here is talk if this becoming a requirement for PME systems.

^^ At least that list is clear with a set number of visits. @JSHarris got banned just for going too often, with no clear policy of how often was acceptable.

Wiring regs are UK wide. England and Wales add a few extras with Part P of the building regs but we don't have that here in Scotland or NI. Re holes in battens, I pre empt this and when fitting the battens leave a small gap at 450mm above FFL for socket cables and another at 1200 for light switch cables. It saves a lot of drilling later. I just wish I could get some of the local joiners to be similarly helpful.

For some time now, in my "trade" capacity as an electrician, I leave all waste with the customer, usually straight into their own wheelie bin. I don't want to open the can of worms about transporting trade waste, I never have waste in my vehicle, just stock. Highland Council require you to fill in a form if you are disposing of private waste either in a trailer or in a sign written vehicle, to declare that it is personal waste. Of course it would be far too helpful if they had a stock of these forms at the tip for you to fill in. You need to know about them and download and print one first before you set out. I have never been contested or stopped for going too often, but then I don't go very often anyway.

Are you living on site and paying council tax? if so you will have a pair of wheelie bins. Mine seem to "disappear" most of my rubbish. Larger stuff I take to the local tip, usually in my Landrover to save unloading my work tools.

They are talking B******S Tell them to go and read the CURRENT regs. There Is no 50mm requirement. It used to be under a previous version of the regs, that if a cable was more than 50mm deep you could avoid the need for RCD protection, that is all. But now everything (just about) has an RCD anyway. Directly behind 9mm plasterboard would be perfectly fine. IMHO 25mm is plenty for a service void where just cables are going. 25mm battens and 12mm plasterboard is just about perfect for 35mm back boxes. I only used a deeper service void in the utility room where more pipes are going. I even had no trouble dropping the 15mm pipes down to the kitchen sink in the 25mm service void.

Hi and welcome. That#s now 2 members further north than me. I would say with your location, a wind turbine is a no brainer.

Next bit of advice needed. Expansion gaps. So far I have floored the big room This room is about 7 metres by 5 metres and the boards run front to back, i.e the 7M dimension. I want to continue this same floor throughout most of the ground floor, i.e continue out of the door opening (just visible on the right of the picture above, a double door opening) across the hall, and into and through the snug lounge. The look we want is once continuous floor with no gaps or visible joints. BUT if I do that, the total width covered by the floor will be 11 metres. I am sure I have read you should not exceed 10 metres without an expansion gap So do I need an expansion gap? If so how to make a level unobtrusive expansion gap? If I do so I will put the gap in one of the doorways so it is covered when the doors are shut.

I think at this point I would be instructing the agent to put it back on the market. Nothing to stop you still trying to save this deal, but I would want more people viewing just now.

A flat bed trailer would be ideal to transport them. But even if I wanted some, these would be way to far away to collect.

I await the pictures. Sadly you may have made the solution a lot harder as you have probably lost track of which ones should join together, and no it is not all blues and all browns joined together.

I think this may be the problem then. What makes you think you can just ignore "spare" wires?

For the avoidance of doubt, unscrew the light fitting and post a picture of the connections . Also post a picture inside the switch that controls this light (and previously the fan) Posting a picture of a completely different light switch only serves to confuse.

Unless I am getting confused, your earlier picture showed neutral at the light switch. So your house is wired "loop at switch" so you should only have a single L, N and E at the light fitting. Perhaps 2 of each if the switch controls more than 1 light and it loops off to another light fitting. Time for some dead testing to check the continuity of the L and N connections all the way.

More Graven madness. you would think those in charge would just buy it back once complete and use it for the next set of plots. The fact they are not is just typical of the whole project.

If a volt stick indicates voltage but the light does not work, you could well be missing a neutral. Be very careful as when you find the erant loose neutral wire it may well be live.

Are you actually getting a landline with Vodafone of is this all wireless?

The terms on my invoices state all goods supplied and fitted remain mine until the invoice is paid in full. I have not yet had to go and recover them. Doing so is on thin ice as you could face a criminal damage charge.

I agree it's the covenant restricting it to a dwellinghouse that will be the one that bothers them. Any other buyer planning to live in it would not be concerned by that. I take it you are going to try and get that extinguished if you can?

Is it really a covenant, or could it be they spoke to the council about a change of use and were told no?