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Everything posted by ProDave
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Here is ours The sink and ovens are on the conventional run of units along the wall. Turn round when at the sink and you are now looking at the hob. The other side of the island is a seating area or "breakfast bar" The bit that is probably not ideal in our layout is the fridge. Next to the fridge where the closk is in this picture is going to be boxed in as a pantry. It is access to what will be the pantry that makes it essential that this is an island so you can walk past either end of it to get to the fridge or the pantry. It would be no good as a peninsula from the wall for instance it must be a true island. At the moment the gap between the wall run of units and the island we think is too big. It is set to that gap to satisfy Scottish building regs but we are near certain after sogn off the island will be moved a little closer to the sink.
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Okay got it sorted. I had copied the image to /dev/sdd1 whereas I should have copied it to /dev/sdd Now I can read the copied image and see all the files and the good news is the Pi is working and you see it booting up via the hdmi output. Of course it now reports a "network timed out" error as there is no network adaptor yet.
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Exterior Wood Fibre for SIPs
ProDave replied to davidc's topic in Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)
That is the system we used, wood fibre on a timber frame and render direct onto the wood fibre. I am not entirely convinced I would recommend this. I am not convinced it is going to last. We had an issue in the first winter with the render along the bottom edge of the garage wall, the top layer "blew". That has been re done and so far okay. But SWMB pointed out (when the sun was at just the right angle to show it) we appear to have a "blister" on the east wall of the house now. So at some point that is going to have to be repaired. The trouble with repairs like this, they are never going to be completely invisible. And one is losing confidence that the whole lot is going to last a long time. Or not. -
That's interesting. It makes no mention of unmounting before using the DD command. Perhaps the "mistake" was me reading those other instructions and unmounting the card? How do I get it back to square 1 so I can at least read the card again on the ubuntu PC?
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I feel near certain the process of imaging the memory card has not worked. And feel frustrated at my lack of knowledge. These are the instructions I used https://elinux.org/RPi_Easy_SD_Card_Setup#Flashing_the_SD_Card_using_Windows Near the bottom, the section that starts "flashing the memory card using linux" I wanted to use the GUI method they suggested using "Image Writer" unfortunately the Ubuntu software centre denies any knowledge of that existing. So I used the command line method. That starts by unmounting the card (umount /dev/sdd1) Then copying the image file with the DD command. That appeared to work. I would have expected to have mounded the card again at the end of the process but no mention to do that. I am convinced that step is needed because now ubuntu does not see this memory card in it's file manager (so I could not even try as you suggest as you say re SSH if I cannot see the card and write to it) I only put the card into the Pi as a matter of desperation to prove it had worked and was not surprised that it seems dead. So thinking the card needs to be mounted, and not knowing the format for the mount command, I have tried the obvious "mount /dev/sdd1" but it says "can't find /dev/sdd1 in /etc/fstab or /etc/mtab Getting frustrated.
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Okay some help needed from Pi / Linux experts. So I have downloaded the image file for the Pi Music box. I followed the instructions to copy the image file to my SD card. At the end of the process it told me it had coppied 892 MB. I did the copying using my Ubuntu laptop and with the card plugged into a USB card reader. After the copying, Ubuntu does not recognise the memory card any more and does not see it. I tried the card reader into the windows PC and it sees 4 empty volumes. Oh well I plugged the memory card into the pi, connected the hdmi socket to a tv and powered up the Pi hopefully expecting to see some boot up messages giving me some confidence that the image has worked and the Pi is booting up. But all I get is a blank hdmi raster. I feel I am "somewhat in the dark" I obviously can't try connecting to the Pi Music player via the web interface until I get the network adaptor, but it would have been nice to have had some assurance the first part of the process had worked.
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Servicing my digger (Kubota 20-3 Alpha)
ProDave replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Tools & Equipment
As you know mine was old and cheap. I serviced it myself. Because when I bought it, there was absolutely no history I serviced it straight away. That consisted of engine oil and filter change, and because of the unknown age, engine cam belt as well. Surely there will be manufacturer recommended service intervals for those at certain engine hours? There will also be other things (that I never did) like hydrauilic fluid filter changes and even replacement of the fluid at longer intervals. And engine coolant replacement etc, just like any other engine. Other stuff like all the grease nipples is more regular daily or weekly servicing. -
We get about 3MB download, so the audio stream is not going to use more than 10% of the bandwidth if left on. when I was trying to get the one from @Stones working, when it was working for a short while that was left on 24/7 with no noticable difference to general interned performance. But judging by how hot it got, I am sure it used more power than a Pi will. I can't now do any more for a couple of days until the USB - Network adaptor arrives.
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That Pi Music box has a web interface. I am assuming once you have logged in and selected an interned radio channel it will continue playing that forever until you tell it to play something else. I don't expect to be using the interface very often. I am expecting the "music" Pi to be powered up 24/7
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But as far as we can see, he has failed to take into account the COP of the GSHP, so has assumed it is being heated with resistance heating at the actual heat power needed, not via a heat pump that will use 1/3 to 1/4 of that amount of electricity.
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I have come across the Pi Music Box https://www.pimusicbox.com/ I will give that a try on the Pi that I have once I get a network adaptor for it.
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The Pi I have is the opriginal Pi 1 model A https://www.raspberrypi.org/model-a/ And https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/model-a-now-for-sale-in-europe-buy-one-today/ no ethernet port but it makes reference to using it with a wifi dongle. However I don't think it has the HAT connector so I am probably flogging a dead horse trying to use this one.
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I have just found the Pi that I have. I did say it was the basic version available when it was bought at least 5 years ago. It appears to have 2 USB connectors, a mini one labelled "PWR" and a full sized one. It has what looks to be an hdmi or similar socket. A yellow phono socket and blue 3.5mm jack socket (which I had thought would be audio out) It does not appear to have a network socket. So it might not be any good for this. There is an 8GB memory card plugged in, and when I put that into a card reader on the laptop it appears to be empty at the moment.
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I have spent hours on that. It works in short bursts, and that has whetted my interest in getting something to listen to Radio Caroline. But I can't find any service information and am convinced I am never going to get that one working, hence this project.
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That's exactly what I want to do. As a Pi novice I will no doubt need some help. I do have a Pi kicking about, it's a model A iirc bought a long time ago for a project that never happened and has never been powered up. I will have to look at what it has and hasn't got to see if it is any good, otherwise buy the right one. surprised it needs a DAC board, I just assumed as it was a "min computer" it would already have audio out. It will be going in the same cupboard as the router, so a hard wired ethernet is available if that makes it simpler than a wifi connection.
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I still can't understand HOW wrong it is, and that the assessor didn't even question how a new build could be so bad so question the data he was sent. He seems to have the wall and window details correct and the fact it has MVHR so should be able to calculate the fabric heat losses. He knows it has a GSHP so if he was not provided data he should have asked. I guess whoever was "in charge" just did not know or did not care.
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I want to put together a cheap internet radio, to link to the hifi, the main objective to be to listen to Radio Caroline that is only available on the internet. So it needs a computer connected to the internet with audio output. A Raspbery Pi? I want this to be a cheap one trick pony, just turn it on and it will connect and play audio from Caroline. I am a Pi novice so don't have a clue which version of the Pi I would need and how one would even set this up. Is it even feasible as a "switch on and go" setup? (I don't want it connected to a screen and keyboard for anything other than configuring it)
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then how did the assessor get it so wrong? He would not be getting paid if it was mine until he got it correct.
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That looks like an RDSAP rating not the result of a full design SAP surely. Whatever, 3 year heating cost of £15,285 and annual heating of 39,443 KWh per year just does not sound right at all. I know our house is 20% of the size but it only cost £234 to heat it this winter and I am sure a Highland winter is a bit colder than the IOW. I love the way the assessor suggests spending £5K - £8K on a small amount of solar PV that will save £0 per year. With advice like that he needs the sack.
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For me, the most disappointing bit about the right Move listing is "EPC E" FFS this is supposed to be a modern house just 3 years old. I would be ashamed if I built something that bad. Even our previous house built 16 years ago gets a C and that was just built to ordinary standards. It is a lot of house in a cheap area. The IOW is not renowned for being an expensive place to buy a house. I have said many times if you are not very careful the same could happen up here, except the decimal point in the cost and pricing would be moved one place to the left.
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1.5 storey new build, timber frame or masonry?
ProDave replied to Olly P's topic in New House & Self Build Design
This is not really in favour of any build method, as you can do this with any method. But we are the same 1 1/5 storey but boring old rectangle. This time I wanted to avoid dormer windows. They always present awkward details, and some awkward to get to bits for maintenance. And inside you still end up with a lot of restricted headroom. So this is what I did. I first saw this style on the Isle of Sky. It is less common over hear on the east side. But it removes that awkward gable detail, and gives you a hell of a lot more usable headroom upstairs. It is in effect big dormer windows but instead of putting a side on them, you continue the slope all the way down. The whole lot is a cut roof hung from a big ridge beam running end to end, and smaller ridge beams for the "dormers" The whole lot is done as a warm roof and one bedroom we chose to leave open all the way to the ridge, with a mezanine floor over the adjacent small bedroom, while the third bedroom we chose a high ceiling to still give some loft storage above. -
Another +1 to Wilo.My cheap manifolds from ebay came with IBO pumps that were dire. Both now changed for Wilo which are incredably quiet. Grundfos are also good, but it might be worth asking if there is a Wilo option?
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Three pours down..none to go - thank goodness
ProDave commented on Simon R's blog entry in South coast ICF build
We has 12mm OSB temprary flooring on 600 centred posijoists for well over a year. It held up surprisingly well. Just don't try putting a scaffold tower up on it without something under the legs to spread the load. -
I would get a slightly larger quadrant than that one, so the amount of door frame left visible is a little less, then set the rest of the architrave to the same gap.
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Staircase tread covering stuff.
ProDave replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
The cheap Howdens stairs are only available in two floor to floor heights. You would be very lucky to find one is right unless you designed your house to match the stairs.
