ProDave

Gosh this is getting complicated. Just found this on a Facro description So if I am reading that correctly, Facro have a vent you cannot completely shut off? If so that rather rules them out for a (near) passive house doesn't it?

No danger of failing SAP That Sterling build website is a LOT better, you get to see the U values in a simple search. Though for the same window they list a different U value. A new parameter has been added, we now want a white painted finish, not UPVC so that's my cheap unventilated one struck off.

Indeed, typo corrected. Thank you.

Please keep the discussion on the topic of how Brexit might affect cost and availability of building materials.

I keep looking at other windows in this size and I have not yet found another one with no vent. One of these rooms is our en-suite shower room. The other is the spare bedroom that is long and thin. It has another window on the end wall that deals with the means of escape so the roof window does not have to perform that role. Neither room will be used for long sitting in front of the window stints.

Both are on north facing roof, so solar gain is not going to be much of an issue. Quiet road, so noise not an issue. Rain noise, never been a problem in last house that has basic 2G roof windows. Quite low down so easily reached to open. At the moment I am leaning towards my new favourite without a ventilator. I have not stumbled upon another that does not have that, and it is not a parameter you seem to be able to search for.

Update I have just stumbled upon this one as my new bargain basement UW=1.2 offering, https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/ptp-p205-white-upvc-centre-pivot-laminated-window-78cm-x-98cm.html This has the attraction of not incorporating a trickle vent, which is something not needed with the MVHR anyway. Something I thought (until I stumbled upon this) was hard to find.

I have 2 roof windows to buy and fit very shortly. Size 98cm tall, 78cm wide, both the same. I am bewildered by choice. I have come up with these 3 as a starting point: Velux triple glazed, UW 1.0 £335 https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/velux-ggl-mk04-2066-white-centre-pivot-window-triple-glaze-78-x-98cm.html Basic Facro double glazed UW 1.2 £201 https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/fakro-ftw-v-p205-white-painted-centre-pivot-window-78cm-x-98cm.html Silly money 4G Fakro UW 0.58 £867 https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/fakro-ftw-v-p205-white-painted-centre-pivot-window-78cm-x-98cm.html And there seem to be any number of different permutations, and not all of them even bother to list the UW values. So stepping back a bit. Each of these windows has an area of 0.7644 square metres. It I take the worst one, UW = 1.2 W/m2K. So at worst case delta t of 30 degrees, I get a heat loss from the window of 27.51 watts Using my heat pump to make up that heat loss, with a typical COP of 3, means I will use 9.17W of electricity to make up that heat loss. This will use 220Wh per day at a cost of 3.2 pence per day. If I assume we get 100 such cold days in a year, the heat loss from one of these windows will cost me £3.20 Now the point of that ramble, is if I were to pay an extra £134 to get the triple glazed Velux the heat loss would reduce to 22.93 watts and annual cost of that heat loss to £2.70 So an extra outlay of £134 would save me 50p per year and thus take 268 years to save it's extra cost. So my initial conclusion, is unless you really really NEED such a low U value (for certification) then with such a small window, there is no financial merit in buying anything other than the basic one? Can anyone fault my argument or calculations and convince me to buy anything but the basic one?

Why did you cut them in half? Was it just not enough manpower to lift them whole?

We have one soil stack for almost everything. Upstairs it serves (or will when finished) 2 toilets, and showers etc. It drops down vertically in the corner of the utility room and the downstairs loo joins it just below the floor. "everything" lands at the bottom straight onto a rest bend to take it out through the wall underground into an inspection chamber. I can say ours is performing at the "barely perceptible rumble" end of the spectrum. Why do you branch it and step it out into the room at the bottom? That is where you will get noise if any. Can that not stay in the wall until under the wet room? Can you get the 45 degree equivalent of a rest bend? i.e. a much longer, gentler radius 45 degree bend?

When I install mine, I will have a fan coil unit in each bedroom and each bedroom will have it's own cooling thermostat, so if a room did start to get too cold, it would just switch off that room.

So are you saying the discharge just ends on the surface where it will pollute the surface of the land, and may also run into the stream and pollute that? You definitely want to be upgrading that. This is where you need to do percolation tests on the ground to see if it is capable of supporting an infiltration field. If not then a treatment plant with a proper discharge direct into the stream.

In my case the treatment plant end the SWA glands into a waterproof junction box, in my case just for the air blower pump. At the house end the SWA glands into the metal case of the consumer unit. Don't make things more complicated than they have to be.

If it is steel wire armoured (which it would have to be to be buried) then just run it up the wall and in through the hole secured to the wall with cleats.

If it discharges into an infiltration field (soakaway) then it is okay to carry on using it. If it discharges to a watercourse, then a septic tank needs to be replaced with a sewage treatment plant by 1st January 2020. So your first thing is to find out exactly where it does discharge to.

We ended up with 205mm rise. I agree it is a bit more than ideal but we had to have an odd number of stairs so the bottom flight was shorter than the top flight, so settled on 6 and 7. We compensated by making the going longer than it needed to be putting the pitch about 37 degrees.

So the user interface is full of bugs, and it keeps crashing, yet you recommend it to others?

If you only need to save £1K I am pretty sure ADW (I assume that is your supplier) will do a deal to get it over the line. Just be honest with them. The cost saving of going from triple to double is not very great.

We used to use a lift pump to draw water out of a well for watering the garden. That pump had to be primed. It had a non return foot valve incorporating a strainer. Once primed it seemed reliable, but I am not sure I would want to trust that for a flood defence mechanism, as you don't want it to not work in a flood because it needs priming to start it. I would just use a submirsible pump, you know that is going to start as long as it is sitting in water.

No, I just manually log the weekly consumption. No sophisticated real time data logging.

Interesting how different units defrost. I was surprised when I first witnessed it just how quick our LG unit defrosts. You hear the compressor slow and stop, a click click and the 4 port valve reverses, and the compressor starts up again. In barely a minute you see the ice melt, followed very shortly by the compressor stopping, valve reversing again, and normal operation resuming. All in less than 3 minutes total. I must try and run and look at the control unit next time I see it defrosting to see if it is turning on it's willis heater to help defrosting or not.

There has to be a very specific reason to make me use 1.5mm for lights (e.g a very long run of cable) In 99% of cases you simply do not need 1.5mm for lighting, and with a lot of modern light fittings you will struggle terminating the cable, 1mm makes it so much easier.

The older they are, the more they are worth. Series 1's are the ones that go for silly money, even a pile of rust if it has the right paperwork. Mine is a series 3, the least desirable of the leaf sprung landies. But the main reason I bought mine was it was cheap, and had already been rebuilt on a new galvanised chassis. Replacing the chassis, as long as to original pattern is not classed as a modification so does not remove it's MOT exempt status. If you are looking at one >40 years old to be MOT exempt, be aware it is only MOT exempt is not significantly modified. So make sure it has original engine and transmission, If it has been upgraded to a later TDI engine for example, that will lose it's MOT exempt status as that was not an engine option when the vehicle was made.

All electric (no gas) makes a great deal of sense for a landlord as it eliminates annual servicing and safety inspection costs.

FORD = Fix Or Repair Daily.