ProDave

Is the pump running, can you hear it or are there any lights on it? What does the temperature gauge bottom right say? What is the temperature dial, the big white knob top left that says "upnor" set to? Can you feel warmth in any or all of the pipes leading into the floor?

I Knauf Earthwool Frametherm 35. It's a glass wool variant that is a LOT less nasty to handle than some of the glasswool types. I don't know how much if any oil it uses in manufacture. My neighbour used hemp as one layer of his insulation, I remember it was both expensive and not a particularly good insulator.

So it means you have to cut into the EPS a little bit?

Round 2: Doner computer No 2 An old Toshiba Satellite. I have had this one a while but it has always been completely dead Upon powering on, all that happened was a brief spin of the cooling fan and that was it, nothing else whatsoever. No signal with an external monitor etc. So I had assigned it to junk. I read lots about this model and how the problem was corrupt bios and tried at least 3 "solutions" to that, but none worked. Anyway today I decided to take it apart. What I found was the BIOS battery was soldered to the main board. I unsoldered one connection, waited 10 minutes and re soldered it, and the machine now booted. It currently has no HDD fitted at all. So I booted it from the Zorin DVD and it has booted, found the wifi, and connected and I am typing this with it. So off to order a SSD for it and install Zorin properly. P.S the other one that I tried and failed with is now working with a fresh install of XP and available as a spare computer. It only has 256K of RAM, so for the princely sum of #4.18 I have ordered 2GB of ram for it from Ebay from China.

Yes It just feeds a bath, 2 showers and a basin (the other basin tees off straight from the airing cupboard. This is in the void between the utility room ceiling and bathroom floor. The location was chosen as it was the most logical place to branch off for all the destinations, without making any of the pipe runs any longer than necessary. It is now accessed by a mini loft hatch in the utility room ceiling.

It will be a low resistance probably wire wound pot. Try googling any part numbers you can find, search on ebay etc. I had the run around with a failed cooker hood recently, I just kept telling the customer, get a new one from Howdens. Trouble was, the cooker hood had been fitted to the wall and then tiled around it. So virtually irreplaceable without re tiling. I ended up taking the entire "works" out of it, bringing it home and operating on it on the bench. It was a failed connection inside the motor, yes I was as surprised as anyone else that I managed to fix it. Top Tip: EVERYTHING inside will be caked in grease and will be horrible to work on. White Spirit is your answer, the grease will just wipe away, far more effective than all the so called degreasers and oven cleaners. Though I am not sure I would clean the inside of a gas oven with white spirit ........

Don't pay that much for a loo seat https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quick-Release-D-Shaped-Slimline-Soft-Close-Toilet-Seat/163963454219?hash=item262cfbc30b:g:9ogAAOSwNHld3mko

or about £12

I think I would be lucky to get 50W from what we have. If I ever experiment with it, it will be for fun and interest, not because I think it will be financially viable.

Yes. If like is you have barely 1 metre head from end to end of the plot, you are not going to do much with a turbine, and when the time comes, I am going to experiment with an undershot water wheel instead.,

How much head do you have?

As that thread says you need a LOT of insulation under the ground floor or you will be wasting a lot of heat. What is the floor at the moment? I am worried that you imply you are struggling to heat the house with radiators, that sounds like you have other issues to solve first? If it's a full renovation I would take up the existing upstairs boards, lay the UFH between the joists using spreader plates, and fit you new hardwood flooring over the top on the joists maintaining the existing floor level.

You waterproof the whole floor in a process called tanking, that can either be a membrane or a paint on system. You use a ready made shower former (or you can make one) so that the floor in the shower area slopes down to the drain. Then you tile it. Even if the grout cracked, the floor is waterproof even before the tiles go down.

I find when you mop the floor, you briefly see the pipe runs as they dry out slightly quicker than the gaps, so it has to hbe worth trying that simple method first.

It is further complicated by the fact that hmrc take the purchase price and sale price and draw a straight line. Real house prices don't do that. It could make a massive gain while you lived in it, and then make no gain at all sitting empty unsold in a flat market, but the hmrc calculation could still leave you owing tax on the "gain" made while you were not living in it.

Can you explain that highlighted statement? I looked into this because of the changes in PRR that come into effect in April. Even after the changes, I understood you still got PRR for all the period the old house was your main residence, and for the last 9 months of ownership (used to be 18) And would only be liable for CGT if you own the old house for more than 9 months after moving into the new one. And then you would only be liable for the portion of the gain outside the PRR exemption.

Everything we need there.

It's quite possible I have remembered it wrong.

There is one nearer to us that runs such a course so we might enquire there. The plan is for something quite basic, simple designs with a lot of plain glass to see through as well as coloured glass. We know the principles. At the moment where to source materials (glass and the H profile lead) is the main issues.

MY mvhr is really basic, it can run at 4 speeds selected by some volt free input contacts. Speed 1 is the fastest, used for the bathroom boost mode. speed 2 the next for the kitchen boost, speed 3 is not used, and speed 4 is the normal trickle rate. Actually when I set it up and balanced it recently I find speed 4 is too slow to meet building regs ventilation rates, but anecdotally is fine. If I have to for compliance I can set speed 3 as my normal rate.

Useful information. We are thinking of having a go ourselves. To make it more manegable, as it is a tall thin window, it will be split into three scenes, one above the other which can be tackled individually as three separate roughly 600mm square panes then joined together. One thing we have found in our initial searching, is we can't find a UK supplier of the H profile lead to join the glass together.

Okay found this for my window https://www.rationel.co.uk/media/1657781/new-auraplus-tgu-window-fixed-.pdf It does not give me a dimension for what I want, but doing what all engineers will tell you not to, scaling from the drawing, looks like my glass needs to be 12mm larger on each side than the visible size. That ties nicely with the spacer dimensions above, and is less than I would have expected.

Interesting. Yes they are Rationel, but we bought this one without glass when the mad idea of the stained glass was hatched. Do you have a link to that drawing?

All the other windows are fitted and sealed and I am not taking them apart to measure the glass size. I will try talking to the glass company in the week and see what they say, There are two of them here, one I tried before and were not terribly helpful so I will try the other one and see if they are better to deal with.

That is a lot less than I expected they would be.