ProDave

I'll bet a burnt switch tastes nothing like it smells,.

That is the window frame in place, I just need to know how much the glass overlaps inside the frame on each side compared to the visible opening.

Unscrew the switch from it's back box and have a look.

A job we have put off again and again. but must get around to soon. The half landing window, nicely depicted here as it has been for several years, boarded up with a sheet of OSB and a slab of rockwool. So the first thing is to create a cardboard cut out and start planning what we want. First question. It is easy to measure the visible size of the window pane. How much extra should we allow on each side to give the overall glass size, allowing for the spacer bars at the edges. The plan is we will make, or have made, a stainded glass pane, that will then be put together as the middle of a triple glazed pane by a glass company.

Thank you for that I am always happy to be proved wrong with facts. I have to say I am surprised by that,

So how would you run your heating from that? Draw off potable hot water through a heat exchanger to heat the heating? (assuming the tank is ported for a HW return)

I am not entirely convinced the metering is going to work as you expect, but I stand to be corrected. So you are generating 6kW, that's 2kW per phase. Both your house and the rental are using 2kW so those 2 phases are at balance neither importing or exporting. Phase 3 is exporting 2kW Your meter is NOT going to count backwards. That 2KW is gone. * Now consider you are still generating your 6KW split 2KW per phase. But now your house and rental are both using 3KW If what you believe is the case is true, then your meter will not count up. I am not convinced it will behave like that. I suspect is simply sums the metered power on the 3 phases, so would be metering a 2kW import even though phase 3 is exporting 2kW I would like to see some official documentation that explains how a 3 phase meter behaves in that situation. * but you many get the 5.5p export rate for that power that is exported.

This is highly dependant on which mvhr you have, they all operate differently. I doubt you can get it to boost when you turn a light on for instance without the use of a relay or two.. For mine I chose to put a timer boost switch in the kitchen and another on the landing. This gives a timed boost. For the kitchen it boosts it to one down from the fastest speed. For the upstairs one for use when showering, it boosts it to the fastest speed. These are the timers I used https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTGBT4.html These timers give a switched 230V output. Because my mvhr expects a volt free contact for low voltage switching, I use the timer to energise a relay, and the relay contact switches the mvhr.

I am getting concerned at what is going to turn up on the new build I am doing. The customer is going to buy a Cool Energy ASHP. He also talks about buying a "pre plumbed" hot water cylinder from them, but I can't see that on their web site. I have cautioned him against buying one of these heat pump cylinders but worry he has misunderstood or been badly advised by the supplier and it is one of these that will turn up.

I can't even work out from that file linked above what size that HP is: Average Absorption heat pump only kW 0.627 Electric heating element integration kW 0.9 max nominal absorption kW 1.527 Primary power kW 43.0 I would guess a 1.5KW heat pump but what is that last figure all about? Also Heating time Min 268 I guess that means it takes 268 minutes to heat the tank, that's 4 3/4 hours to heat a tank full of water. I would not hold out much hope of it heating your house as well as your hot water.

Usual cause of isolator failure is one of the terminals not done up tight enough and overheating. If that has happened the wire will be burned and you will have to pray there is enough slack to pull some through, cut back the burned bit and re terminate.

No it won't. Get a normal monoblock ASHP that goes outside and does the job properly. Even if it did or could work, why would you want to put the noise of the compressor inside the house?

I don't think that is an exhaust air heat pump, it looks like a true heat pump with duct ports so you can pipe inlet and outlet air from outside. My criticism with them, is if one component fails, either the heat pump, or the tank, then the whole lot is scrap, Best keep heat pumo and tank as separate items. If you are having a heat pump for heating, why would you want to buy another for hot water? Several of us on here heat all our hot water from the same ASHP that heats the house.

Capacitive / inductive coupling, together with a digial meter with a very high input impedance. Nothing to worry about. However before you bin the shower, the fishy smell is far more likely to be the isolator switch has failed and is typical of the smell given off when plastics like those used in switches are overheating. Check / replace the isolator first. Unless you are SURE the fishy smell is actually coming from the shower.

I kept a copy in case it disappeared. It's just that someone mentioned above that some BBA certificates have been withdrawn,

No. 100mm thick wood fibre direct onto timber frame and render onto that. It did have a BBA certificate for that system when we built it, I have not checked of that is still valid or not.

https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=wago+221 https://www.toolstation.com/search?q=wago 221 https://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=wago 221 http://www.discount-electrical.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=wago+221&x=0&y=0 https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=wago+221&Submit=Search I think everyone does them

Lots to digest there Self usage is the key to PV being viable now. If you have all your house on 1 phase, the holiday let on another phase and nothing on phase 3, then you don't want a 3 phase inverter. I would be tempted by 2 separate 3kWp system each split equally e/w and each feeding one of the used phases. That will of course need 2 inverters. I will sound like a cracked record as I say this to all PV queries now, but with no FIT have you properly run the pay back time calculations?

I have had little success removing them myself. But thanks to @MJNewton I did not know about the 221 series, I know what will be padding out my next order to get above the free postage thresheold.......

The Wago's shown are the lever version that can be released. Even smaller are these https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-3-way-push-wire-connectors-24a-pack-of-100/4322r (as an example) available in different number of ways and different sizes. They are smaller, so possibly better for this application, but once fitted you can't remove a wire, so get it right first time!!!

All completed. I filed a bit off the top spindle bracket and got the top gap to 97mm. The rest of the top run is 90mm and the bottom run 95mm. I will let you know if Burbidge give me the courtesy of a reply.

U value 0.14 overall thickness 360mm Inside to out: plaster skim 12.5mm plasterboard 25mm battened service void Air tight membrane 2 layers 12mm OSB (racking layer) 195mm timber frame filled with Frametherm 35 insulation 100mm Pavatex wood fibre board Baumit thin coat render system.

Don't leave them so long. The key is neatness, e.g linking neutrals together and terminating earths, do all that first with them neatly dressed and tucked in the back of the box out of the way. And yes the deepest back box you can fit

The safest way with stuff like that is don't pay with paypal, pay cash on collection. I bough my digger from ebay, the other end of the market, a very old 3t Komatsu that I won for £2500. I corresponded with the seller, agreed a collection date, organised transport for it. Turned up a bit before the transport was due, checked it over handed him the cash and loaded it onto the truck and followed it home.

Best of luck getting all those wires tucked away in the back box !!!! Re step, I use a pair of "combination ladders" that can be a short extension ladder, a pair of regular steps, or a pair of offset steps for use on a staircase. I have had them for probably 30 years, they are sturdy and secure and I have never once doubted their integrity. Plenty of people have told me they are "illegal" and dangerous, but nobody, not anybody is going to stop me using them. I do admit I have seen similar looking things to mine that are rubbish and dangerous so choose carefully and use your own judgement.