ProDave

This is how a neighbour built his house on very poor ground with a steep slope. Each pillar sits on a 1 metre square concrete pad. Cast on top of that are concrete pillars cast inside some large plastic drainage pipe. Timber joists then span side to side and the timber floor spans length ways. The wall in the foreground is a retaining wall to hold back the ground for the parking area and to anchor that end of the building. In this case the tallest pillar is about 1.5 metres out of the ground.

If you read my thread above, I tried, and failed, to get the required ventilation rates for am MVHR system in Scotland. So i set it up to the English requirements which are much more clearly specified. It remains to be seem what BC actually want on completion. If you succeed in finding any more information from Scottish BC please share with us.

Yes I was not 100% happy with the built in tape. So what I did, if the joint did not coincide with a batten, then I screwed an offcut of timber over the joint to keep it pressed together. A very good way to use up lots of scrap wood e.g offcuts of OSB ripped down into 2" strips.

It's called a dry ridge system. You will have to strip the whole of the ridge and you may need to insert a length of timber if there is nothing suitable already to screw them down to.

Although I found Scottish water hard to deal with, and their local inspector was the biggest jobs worth I have met, I did find their pricing attractive. Having given us a "connection" cost, I then requested an "all works" cost, and to my pleasant surprise that got me the road crossing for £1000, about half what anyone else had quoted.

It wasn't difficult to install. all I will say of the three or so ashp's I have seen they all have a totally different electrical / control scheme, so just a case of read and understand the manual, which as above is not always straightforward.

Bariar has a built in tape down one side to join it th the next strip.

Yes I paid under £1K for an ebay bargain ASHP subsidy and no RHI, self installed. It was not a smooth ride, the first one I received was faulty and I had to kick up a stink to get a replacement.

What is the background to previous site use to make them ask for this?

Has the layout oh the house changed? They used to be common in a pantry to keep it cool.

I'm mainly thinking of multipanel walls or similar, where if you do wall first, then you create a channel that the bottom of the panels will sit in, soaking up water, if the sealing is ANYTHING less than perfect. Floor first then walls allows 2 layers at sealant. Principle is the same, though the effects of tiles is less than multipanel if sat in water. BUT at one previous house we had tiles that wicked up water like that and left a stain half way up the tiles.

Is that 24 degrees the room thermostat setting or the "leaving water temperature" setting? If the latter it is probably a bit low which might explain why you are finding the heating performance poor?

we must agree to differ on that one.

On your user control panel, can you independently set the DHW temperature and the heating temperature? If so what is the heating temperature set to, and try reducing the DHW temperature a bit. I can't see anything about using the immersion heater, so what makes you think it is using that? I am not a fan of weather compensation, I am not convinced there is a need for that, you can disable that and set it instead for a constant output temperature.

My mvhr runs constantly and at the slow trickle speed is inaudible. I have set mine up with manual boost timers. the upstirs boost for showering runs it at the fastest speed which is indeed noisy. downstairs I have a slower boost rate for when cooking which is not as noisy.

The heating thing first. What level of insulation in the house? Heated how, e.g. under foor heating or radiators? Hot water I heat ours to 48 degrees just with the heat pump. Some heat pumps have default settings to use the immersion for the final heating, but you should be able to change this. I have disabled all use of the immersion heater on mine. We heat a roughly 150 square metre house with an LG 5kW ASHP without problem, and it gets colder here than your island climate.

Shouldn't it be floor tiles first, then wall tiles down onto floor tiles?

I like many on here have mvhr. At normal trickle rates you don't need much air, and certainly not enough that you feel a draught from the vents unless you are really right up next to them. They are VERY necessary in an air tight house because you need air to breathe. the alternative is uncontrolled trickle ventilation that will allow more heat out of the building to go to waste. If you are feeling cold draughts all the time I suggest your system is not set up properly. do you have any form of speed control panel or boost switches?

I think someone said by self build No 3 you will get most things right.......

I share Jeremy's concerns about the boidosc. But as long as it works it does the job it's okay. Just pray it does not go wrong, and when it does you can find a mechanic with no sense of smell. Perhaps start a new topic regarding each of the systems that are not working as you expect. But briefly the fresh air into rooms from mvhr will always be colder than the air in the rooms, but not as cold as it would be if it ws raw outside air coming straight in.

Where I bought the flue from https://www.flue-pipes.com/ they sell an insulating sleeve. This is clearly made of a non flamable material and / or certified by the manufacturer for this purpose and is 6cm thick, This means that anything, including flamable materials can be in contact with the outside of this sleeve as they are the required distance from the flue. So you can seal up the hole around the sleeve and get an air tight penetration. Our chosen stove was a Medip Stoves Churchill convection model. Rated at 4.5Kw it has a ducted air intake for both primary and secondary air so is room sealed. so no vents needed to let cold air into your room. We are very pleased with it. I can honestly say this is the first stove we have ever had, that genuinely keeps it's glass clear, I have never had to touch the glass or clean it at all.

Go back to your old version?

Just pleasantly warm to the touch at low level and barely warm at all higher up. Manufacturer says you must maintain 50mm gap to flamable material but I reckon you could sit a box of matches on it without problem.

Nine goes through a bedroom

Probably £2K in total here. Why does it need boxing in through the first floor?