ProDave

If it is a storage heater then yes, the central storage boiler is likely to retain heat better than a normal storage heater until you pump the hot water round to the radiators. But as i understand it this one is not storage. It is just a collection of electric heaters in a tank, i think they go up to about 12kW, that heats the water as it goes round. So it draws electricity when heating the radiators and not when it doesn't. Pretty useless on a TOU tariff unless your house is really well insulated. Most I see are on a normal single rate. My point is, if you don't have the advantage of storage and a TOU tariff, I fail to see what an electric boiler gives you that individual electric panel heaters does not.

Electric boilers have always struck me as the most stupid idea. Why heat water with direct electricity in a big box and then pipe it to rooms via pipes into radiators? If you are going to heat with direct electric, just fit panel heaters. WHY the complication of an electric boiler? And most installs of an electric boiler just use a direct heated HW tank with an immersion heater, the boiler play no part. It would be just as absurd to use the boiler to pipe heat via an indirect coil to a hot water tank. The only electric boilers that make any sense are electric storage boilers and only if combined with something like an E10 tariff so you can heat the water at cheap rate and draw it at any time to heat the house. I suppose the only good point is having the pipes and radiators there, then there is a chance of relatively easily converting to an air source Heat Pump?

It sounds like the outside tqps are from mains water but not via your internal stopcock. Have a look around the house is there any other stopcock in the ground? You are looking for a little round or square usually black lid which when opened reveals a hole down to a stopcock. If the outside taps came from the wells, there would need to be a pump somwhere.

Can you post a normal picture of this corner for context please. something is making it very cold right in that corner.

Can we see an outside picture zoomed out a little or a close up of the detail of the sides from outside? That window should be set about 30mm or so further out from the roof. It is an installation error. The bottom flashing from the window should be level with the top of the tiles and then formed to follow the contour of the tiles. In your case the bottom of the window is recessed too far forcing that bodged bending of the flashing. If it is too low at the bottom then it is probably also too low for the side flashing to work as designed.

Assuming you are having a masonry underbuild then what you have is similar to us. Masonry footings, timber floor resting on the sole plate, then a timber ring beam around the perimiter and the timber frame built from that. Easy to detail insulation and air tightness to be seamless between floor and wall.

We have a wet room with tiled floor. The choice of tiles was based on what was likely to not be slippy when wet, and we chose rough tiles that resemble sandpaper when dry not flat and shiny.

But Spiders. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/travel/news/blow-to-reeves-as-endangered-spiders-halt-government-s-plans-for-1-300-new-homes/ar-AA1z5Vfw I thought this sort of nonsense had stopped under the present government?

Yes it does. you put the sheets perpendicular to the joists and one sheet spans between 6 joists.

Nothing wrong with the UH-8 it does what it says and it provides a relay contact call for heat which can be wired as a volt free contact or a switched live, or anything else you care to imagine. I would be very surprised if you went to the trouble of changing the UH-8 for something else if it would be any different.

One for HW, one for radiators, one for UFH. If it can't do that, choose a different boiler.

the one thing that put me right off that website is no mention of retail or wholesale pricing, just get £7500 off with the BUS grant, total price paid from as little as £500

On the subject of welfare units. When i started our build, I had nothing on site. I told the builder our present house 100 metres from the build was available for all their needs. Not one of them took up that offer.

For that sort of roof you will not be using trusses, but a cut roof hung from a ridge beam. To get that completely open gable end without a central support pillar will need steels to form the roof line (from which the ridge beam can be supported)

So what DOES the boiler have instead? I have never seen a boiler that does not have some form of call for heat. That is that terminal block in your diagram above? Is that the boiler? Wiring centre? UFH controller? What ate the terminals F and L? Perhaps post a link to the instructions for your particular boiler? None of the information so far is making sense (to me)

It is so random. BC had no problem with my self installed stove. About the only thing that they were over like a rash was "distance to combustibles" measurements. But even that they were disorganised. I had sent them a copy of the installation instructions and shown them the measurements, but then had to send them the individual page showing the distances, and pictures with a tape measure to prove it complied. Just something for the file I guess.

Old small touring caravan, cheaper, easier to find and transport, everything is 12V or gas. Fit a solar panel to keep the 12V battery charged. And buy a small "suitcase" generator for tool charging, tool charging takes a tiny amount of power 6KVA would be noisy and way over powered.

Can you post a higher resolution copy of the pictures. Even if I zoom in they are too blurred to read. Or more simply, a boiler won't have a "com / no" connection, it will normally expect a switched L to fire it so connect L to Com and then the NO will be a switched L to fire the boiler. This is what happens often when a plumber connects something a little out of the ordinary, he does not understand it and cannot work it out. (no offence to certain plumbers on here who are well capable of integrating different kit)

This reminds me of a cooling unit I encountered in someones conservatory a long time ago. It was an air to water heat pump set up for cooling. It drew cold mains water into an internal tank. The cooling of the room warmed up that water. When it reached a certain temperature, it just dumped that now warm water down the drain and refilled with more cold water. It made it a simple to install all in one unit. I guess water regs outlawed this "wasteful" practice? But it was noisy having the heat pump in the room.

Put the multimeter to AC Volts and test for no voltage between Live and Neutral inside the red isolator switch.

First turn off BOTH those isolators the ac and the dc one. Then isolate the PV connection at the consumer unit. Then for good measure test for dead, and you should be good to go.

Well my build is finished, it took nearly as long as @Pocster but at least I did finish it. but I am still here trying to help where I can, and of course I still have at least 2 more jobs to do, the car port and the posh shed.

A lot of manifolds similar to that one can be assembled either way, with the flow and return as you have them or the other way up. Neither is right or wrong. What you have is dirty water, no doubt from being the same water that circulates through the radiators and almost certainly lack of inhibitor. It needs a complete drain down and flush and re filling with clean water and inhibitor mix, and fitting a magnaclean in the pipework would also be a good idea. Not sure if you will succeed in cleaning those flow meters so you can see them again or if they will need replacing. They are not a type I have seen before.

They have to be detached otherwise it would be classed as one big building.

Hi and welcome. Pretty standard house for the era in a city I know well. Let us know what you find when you move it. I am almost certain the part of the wall with hanging tiles won't even have a cavity, clocks on the inside, battens and tiles and probably not a lot else. Wiring could be anything from perfect just needing a new consumer unit and earthing upgrades to a diabolical mess. Even if perfect there won't be enough sockets in the right places so rewire is probably sensible. ASHP really needs under floor heating that will tie in with insulating the floors. MVHR may not be worth it unless as part of your refurbishment you vastly improve the air tightness.