ProDave

The knob on the bottom of this will adjust the temperature. Turn it down until the flow temperature gauge reads about 40. You will have to adjust it then wait a while for the water in the system to cool down, then adjust again.

Glad it is working. See how it goes in practice. The short cycling issue might arise if say just one of the UFH loops was calling for heat especially if it was a small room. That would not be much load on the boiler so you might hear it fire up just for a short time then stop again. There are options if that causes a problem and one is to make all the UFH work as one zone, all on, or all off.

@Crofter built a second property on the croft he owned. Probably thinking of the member that built a "hut" @Ollie B what is your budget? And do you have to live in a particular place? It is still possible to buy cheap building plots in remote parts of Scotland for under £50K

Do you not have any sort of timer or programmer? Most people seem to just use the timer built into the ASHP but some can be fiendishly complicated and hard to understand or adjust, so my system is controlled by an ordinary central heating programmer that everyone understands so it is easy to set on and off times etc. Have you ever topped up the system pressure with the fill loop? did your service man not even do that? The behaviour you have shows there is not enough water in the system. If it has never been topped up since it was installed this will be due to air in the system bleeding through automatic air vents. If you don't know how to do this, get your service person back. Turn the heating off before he gets there so it is cold and he can see the lack of pressure then get him to show you how to top up the water, and how to let any residual air out of the vents. You should keep on venting air and topping up the pressure until there is no air left in the system and hopefully it will run a lot quieter.

All are flowing at a similar rate. It is not that the water is not getting all the way round, it is that some loops (the longer ones probably) have given up all their heat to the room before the water gets back to the return manifold. I don't see a pump on this manifold so is is using just the pump built into the ASHP? Is there another circulating pump anywhere? I would start by turning up the pump speed if it is not already on full speed. Ignoring the technicalities, is the heating working properly and all rooms getting hot enough?

Post a close up picture of the flow meters (the red things on the top manifold) with ALL thermostats turned up and heating running. Chances are the "cold" loops just have the flow set too low.

To get a serious answer you need to determine is it the water exiting the toilet that is making the strange noise? Or is it the water refilling the cistern after flushing that is making the strange noise?

My suggestion. Don't be in a hurry, bide your time working out exactly what you want and drawing your plans and designing the house you want, before you go back to planning. With the amount of people now appearing on the news saying we need to remove obstacles to building and projects should not be delayed by bats and newts, then if this really is government policy then by the time you have your plans ready you can argue "The PM says we should not be delayed by newts" if indeed you even have to argue it as surely the planning policy must change to suit the governments mantra? That does not stop you being sympathetic to the newts when you do build, it should hopefully just avoid you having to pay someone to say blatantly obvious things about how you are going to safeguard them.

Do you want to convert it yourself and continue living there, or are you just wanting to sell and go somewhere else and trying to work out how to get the best price for it? Auction might even be a way?

Your architect is also clueless. He talks of a warm roof make up, but then mentions a ventilation gap which would make it a cold roof. Which do you want? Some sketches or pictures showing the roof construction and timber sizes is needed to have a meaningful conversation. If the current panelling is just fixed directly to the L&P ceiling I don't see it makes a difference. Or are you saying there is some kind of gap between them?

I looked at that. I mostly watch tv via a satellite box, but it only has 2 tuners so can record 2 things or record one while you watch another channel. Occasionally there are 3 things I want to watch at the same time so I let the box record 2 of them and watch the third on freeview (via the normal tv aerial) but our freeview signal is pretty poor and sometimes unwatchable. So this freely app to easily watch live tv via the internet looked a good idea for that situation. BUT it is not available on a firestick. WHY? it makes no sense whatsoever.

I would try it without first. Water won't flow through the UFH pipes if the UFH is not demanding any heat so no harm done.

Pipes expand when they heat up and contract when the cool. The clicks are where something along their route does not allow them to expand smoothly so they expand until they have built up a bit of pressure like a spring then click, they jump along a bit. So make sure everywhere a pipe passes through a joist or is clipped in place the pipe can slide smoothly without restriction. So big holes in joists. loose fitting pipe clips etc etc.

Yes that is what we expect to happen.

I think the point and what started the thread is the radiators are not on and the UFH on it's own was not triggering the boiler to fire. Not surprising now we have found that disconnected grey wire.

The edges of that dry hip / ridge system are flexible and are supposed to be shaped to fill in the steps before the tiles go on. Some are even adhesive so they stick down.

We can only speculate if it was deliberate, or as is often the case, installers just don't understand UFH. I went to "fix" a neighbours install that had been fitted by a local "renewable energy" company. They had it set so the UFH manifold was running 24/7 even when the heat pump was scheduled to be off, i.e. the heat pump and UFH manifold were not electrically connected to work together. It had been like that for about 2 years before he called me to work out why his heating did not work as expected and was somewhat random.

There is no other choice if the OP wants the UFH to work without the radiators on.

That is looking likely why it was disconnected, but that does not help the OP, he wants the UFH to work on it's own. When he gets it working then if there is a lot of short cycling then we can discuss options to make the UFH work as one big zone all on or all off.

Yes, but the point I was making as there are other grey wires with other functions, make absolutely certain these ARE the grey wires from the motorised valves before you connect your UFH grey wire to them.

Crucial question. Is there a difference in ground level between the 2 sides? i.e. is it a retaining wall? If it is a retaining wall it is the ground on the higher side pushing the wall over. If not then it is inadequate foundations that are subsiding. If the plan is to take the wall down in a few years I would do nothing, and if it starts to lean a lot more take the top half off earlier than planned.

Treat it as a space heater. Keep it simple. We have a stove, only 5kW and it is decorative, fun and simple. The main reason for having it is the ample availability of free wood that would otherwise be "waste" that we would have to deal with somehow. I have said many times, if I had to buy wood, I would not have a stove. Trying to heat water with it adds considerable cost and complicates your normal heating system.

Clearly that grey going nowhere is why the call for heat from the UFH does not work. You say the black from the UFH box goes to the same connector block as all the orange wires from the 2 port valves. That is good. (it is not clear in your photo which one that is , i think the orange wires are looking more like brown in that photo) So the grey wire from the UFH box needs to connect to the same terminal block as all the grey wires from the 2 port valves. Make absolutely sure you are connecting to the correct set of grey wires before connecting the wire from the UFH into them. and make sure power is off, depending on the boiler this might be switching a low voltage or might be 230V

This terminal block. The right hand pair should power the manifold circulating pump. The manifold circulating pump should turn on when any UFH circuit calls for heat. Does that happen? The left hand pair of contacts is a relay contact that should close at the same time. This pair or relay contacts would normally be connected in your case in parallel with the switch contacts from the radiator motorised valves and that would give the call for heat to the boiler when UFH requests heat. Do you have anything like a multimeter to make any measurements? Can you follow the cable that contains those black and grey cables and see where it goes and photograph whatever junction box etc it connects into?

That's a good point. My ASHP has switched outputs for heating and DHW so I wired normal motorised valves from that. I could have applied that logic and used NO and NC valves and powered them both from the DHW output. Or I could have used a 3 port 2 position valve, and achieved the same result. But logically from a plumbing point it is exactly the same thing, it would just have saved having the DHW valve energised for a large chunk of the day. I think my point however is, as long as you avoid the dreaded 3 port mid position valve, then the plumbing for S plan or PDHW is the same. PDHW is just bringing gas boilers into the 20th century and doing what ASHP's have done for ages, allowing different flow temperatures to heating and DWH.