ProDave

Most of the trees I took out, I pushed them over as a full tree, you can push much higher up and get more leverage. The chainsaw only came out when the tree was out of the ground and lying on it's side. The only one I had trouble with was the largest one, nearly 2ft diameter at the stump. Getting the tree to move and push over was easy, but that one had hundreds of very springy roots and they just would not pull out of the ground. I ended up cutting most of those and leaving them.

That would probably work okay on a thin shower panel, but I have had very disappointing results trying that on a kitchen worktop.

Thanks. They don't "sell" them very well. Had I not looked closely at the picture or read the reviews I would never have known their USP was they are downward cutting.

Never seen a downward cutting blade? It was the upward cut and risk of splitting the finished surface that stopped me using the jigsaw or circular saw and used a good old fashioned downward cutting panel saw.

Hi and welcome. Whic part of Oxfordshire, that's where I used to live.

Many of us on here bought our own diggers, mine was a prehistoric 3 ton tracked 360 degree machine. Every joint had lots of play, but it worked, everything I broke I fixed, and sold it for exactly the same as I paid for it. Working on your own site on your own you don't need qualifications. If you are familliar with 360 machines, just be aware the first time you jump in one, the controls of the back hoe on a JCB are a bit different.

I cut mine with a sharp panel saw, but I only needed to cut straight lines.

One thing I have found when trying to operate or understand something complicated, is you read a bit of the manual, press a few buttons, then refer back to the manual again to see what to do next and go to do that, only to find because you have not pressed buttons for a while it has timed out of it's menu's. So not only do you need a good understanding, you need a good memory to remember a sequence of button presses and do them quickly.

Multipanel also do a version with tongue and groove joints but I suspect you still need a corner joint piece.

Yes low voltage presumably DC but I have never measured what it is. I use a mains voltage timer as a timed boost and that just drives a relay to close the chosen boost speed contact. another "feature" is you can close more than one of the speed inputs at a time and it will go to the fastest speed chosen. Hence my normal speed input is always selected and my chosen boost speed input is closed as well when required.

But if he bought the plot, knowing the option to drain into adjacent land had been blocked, and the solicitor advised him of that fact, how is the solicitor negligent?

@joe90 If you wanted to control the Mitsubishi fan speed from something like a Raspbery Pi or Arduino then you would need four small relays each driven from a digital output and they would close the contact on one of the 4 available speed inputs.

There is probably an option to turn off all temperature compensation. Get the installers to turn that off.

A basic principle of all control systems is as you approach the set point (in this case the temperature you have set on the dial is the set point) the system must reduce the amount of power (in this case slow down the rate of heat input) If you maintain full power input (full temperature radiators) until you reach the required temperature, then turn it off, the room temperature is likely to overshoot (ho higher than the temperature set on the thermostat) All people are saying, is try turning the room thermostat up a lot higher than you want, and then turn it back down when you feel warm. That might get the rooms up to temperature quicker.

The surplus rainwater must soak into the ground now otherwise your site would be a pond now?

Yes, the drainage field goes on top of the big pile of expensive sand, then you cover it with soil so you have a "hill" in your garden. Alternatively, dig even deeper and see if you can find something better below your band of clay?

You must be 100% SURE that the boiler AND the UFH manifold are indeed connected to the SAME circuit before you make that assumption. Not only the same circuit, but possibly the same sub circuit. i.e you may have a "heating" circuit from the consumer unit that feeds the boiler via one Fuses Connection unit and feeds the UFH manifold via another Fused connection Unit in a different place. It would not be acceptable to link the grey to the boiler call for heat under that situation. If you had the motorised valve you could connect the grey and orange to the boiler L and SL but you don't Unless you can be more certain about how it is all wired, the only safe way I can advise at the moment is a relay with a 240V coil connected where the motirised valve brown and blue are shown, and the relays NO contact connected to the boiler L and SL.

That's an interesting find. What I find particularly interesting is that seems to not have a trickle vent. That is something the other manufacturers charge extra not to fit.

thanks that's a readable version. Have you got that 2 port motorised valve shown in the diagram?

I can't read that drawing, even if I zoom in, it's too fuzzy to read. Can you take a higher resolution picture. Be VERY careful, that is a 24V UFH controller, you might need a relay to connect to the boiler if it does not already have a volt free contact output but I can't tell from that drawing. Oh and rotate the camera so it posts the right way up, my neck was getting a crick trying to read it. (meant in the nicest possible way)

Get whoever did the design SAP to now issue the "as built" SAP. He will need all the details of exactly what has changed from design to build.

Can you post a picture of the UFH manifold controller, if possible with the cover off and close up so we can read the terminals. A lot of them have a "volt free" relay contact as the "call for heat" from the manifiold in which case you would use a 2 core cable to the boiler and it would not matter if they were on different circuits.

No chance of the council here doing anything. There has been a blocked culvert here for all the time we have been here. In winter we in effect have a permanent ford down the road, the water runs across the road and then down through the garden of the neighbour to our old house (I made sure the ground level was banked up along our plot to stop it entering). Just about everybody has complained to the council several times and the best they will do is come and stick a patch of tarmac in when the ford washes away part of the road surface.

We have a planning condition that says we must not let surface water from the plot onto the road. Not at all difficult to comply with as our plot is lower than the road. Now if only they imposed the same condition on highways "you must not let surface water from the road onto our plot"

What are your hot water times set to? As I tried to explain, when it starts heating the hot water it will STOP heating the rooms for the duration of that. So if your hot water heating has come on, your radiators will go off for a time. On my unit you can set how long the hot water function stays on and then the time before it does more hot water heating. Mine is set to 30 minutes on (the default setting) and then 30 minutes off (the default I think was an hour) But this is a more complicated setting than just setting programmer times. I believe the logic in this timed arrangement for hot water is partly not to deprive the house of space heating for too long at a time (that would not be an issue in my house) and also because the heat pump is working harder when heating hot water, by limiting the HW time will reduce the likelihood of it needing to defrost. Different units treat this in different ways so ask the guys when they come round to explain how your unit deals with this and agree between you how you would like it set to operate.