ProDave

In principle I would say yes. But a bit more information like age of house and how much insulation, size of heated floor area and what temperature was the UFH water with the oil boiler?

About the cheapest grid tie inverters I know are these from China sold on ebay and no doubt other places https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403845542808?hash=item5e0711f398:g:bZ8AAOSwjadjAzoy&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsDa2%2Bx6zbI%2FStoMKUEkN%2FmztR3vxOG7gTmM79BQEnHvCcZJYHf3fnP6MV7Lsh4RTeMCp1bPJFdbwwKsI51PAyrRrFagqykuonsrZbeW5Lf3H%2FhbnvFNRaajPEGBr6yGqWKq0izsVyavDbLVap2nSjhG8uIQTbEEX%2BdwDuiZllSTmdg49LBESNa0yktViz3UKgP%2FsUz95nh5jGJepCFKhvFJbbymD2XtHpSXVoRPYJv%2B7|tkp%3ABk9SR_rvuf3eYA If you use one of those, don't tell your DNO that is what you have, Although they work, I bet they are not on any approved list. If you want proper approved kit it will cost more something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304513473387?hash=item46e66adb6b:g:3b8AAOSwmRtipKSU&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoF0vWbg1ae3D7vT5oInPZMXsmO5MnTgFH1lATI3TcfLTIqNmFfzzkfUIRpSdz3E47G7TQpcppPL%2FYyyEa0N1iadNBbT%2BFU64oe9W0a6suJvP0Mhl5Zx5Vqeazkd7j0oNdMojbSOW%2BjWAExfOi2ro7RrfZXYEBve9zbiug%2Bs5y1ZaAqmaQCsoUWT2vdDDJQRCjtezU8G4hgvuJibw307914w%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4DYzv3eYA

What is puzzling me, is if it has spread, then originally the roof edge was not parallel to the wall? (it is now)

It's going to be a difficult site due to size so no option but muck away as it's dug etc and the logistics of building in a small space, access, material storage etc will be complicated. That will likely all add more cost.

The local "advice" here is when starting up a new tank, drop a dead rabbit into it.

Looking at this picture, the movement has happened a long time ago. The soffit is relatively new and the spacers suggest when the present soffit was fitted this "wall plate" was already displaced. If you can confirm the roof is adequately supported by something other than this timber, then there may be no need to correct it?

Not so sure. The outer edge of the soffit looks to be the same distance from the wall all along. What appears to have happened is that "wall plate" has moved out. That would imply it is not fixed to the rafters? If that is all that is supporting the roof then it is on the verge of falling off the wall. Usually the wall plate is on the inside of a wall. I would want to have a look and see if anything else is supporting the roof.

I see no need for any of that to be fitted. We have a free standing chest of drawers much taller than that. Just buy off the shelf free standing furniture and then pay a local joiner to notch the back of the units to sit over the skirting if you want that close fitting look. that will be way cheaper.

I would be interested to hear your location and how deep the borehole has to be to deliver water at your expected temperature.

How do they KNOW you moved in in 2018?

You are missing my point. With an ICE car I know it will do any journey I want, short or long (with quick refuel stops every 350 miles) with or without passengers and luggage, and with or without some form of trailer on the hook. Now I make a big thing of the towing. Perhaps If I changed our lifestyle, sold the caravan and chose a different form of holiday, then I might, just might be able to accept the other limitations of an EV. But why should I have to limit what I can do with a car? IF that is really the end game, I would like to hear a politician stand up and say "sorry you are all going to have to change to an EV AND with that you are going to have to accept some major reduction in your expectations of what a vehicle can do" So I am going to be a stick in the mud and keep an ICE as long as I can. It may well be that ICE does not do many miles but it will be essential.

Just another automatic car.

Change to an Unvented hot water tank, not a thermal store. Choose one with a high capacity input coil, then it it ready for an ASHP. Once you have a HW tank, a PV diverter to send surplus PV to the immersion heater. How is your heating delivered? UFH or radiators? Why don't you think an ASHP is suitable?

In which case statements like "we only supply 100% renewable electricity" should be outlawed. Some people actually believe if they change to such a supplier, then all the electricity coming out of their sockets really does come from renewable sources only.

Good. So in a few years I should be able to buy a good not very old, low mileage used ICE car as my "final" ICE car to look after and keep as long as possible, for not very much money then. We already have a hybrid "shopping trolley" and will likely replace that with an EV shopping trolley when a used one becomes affordable, but I just can't let go of an ICE car as long as I want to tow a tin box behind it to go on holidays etc.

So, if they ONLY buy from independent green generators on a deal they have negotiated, then there is no need for their "wholesale" price to rise above general inflation as the costs to these green generators have not risen. There is no need for their "wholesale" price to be in any way influenced by the gas price for instance. So they should be selling electricity to their consumers at a good price? Why do i suspect that is not the case?

Top money saving tip. I got this from a customer I did some work for. He said "not on a Tuesday, that is my bus day" I asked him to explain. Being over 60 in Scotland he gets his bus pass, free bus travel anywhere in Scotland, so every Tuesday he gets on a bus, different place each week. He gets a couple of hours in a nice warm bus with a change of scenery, has lunch in his chosen destination and returns. He recons it is cheaper with the free bust travel and just paying for his lunch, than heating the house for the day.

It costs nothing to apply for a temporary habitation so why not do it. Think of it as a pre completion inspection, you might get some guidance on how you ar doing and anything that needs completing / correcting for completion.

You can certainly get a certificate of temporary habitation but you will need electric certificate and gas safe if any gas in the property. They have to determine the building is safe, not finished. So proper ramped level access not needed but some safe means of entry is. they will expect working heating. kitchen and at least one functioning bathroom.

The one I looked at, different but similar oven, as soon as you selected any heating function with the big rotary switch, it supplied power to this control board. the relays then determined where that power went, to which element or fan. The control board was "told" which heating mode you had selected by 4 low voltage contacts on the switch sending a binary code to the control board. So turning the big rotary switch to off, killed all power regardless of stuck relays. In the case of my neighbours one, it was the oven fan permanently stuck on, not a heating element.

It will almost certainly be the control module. Probably a stuck relay. I tried to fix a similar problem with a neighbours Siemens Oven but found the control module not available for his.

Yes I did all the digging and laying conduit for my connection. All the DNO had to do was pull their cable through the duct I had installed, and connect both ends. I even filled in the connection pit after they had left.

Look at other recent planning applications nearby. With mine, they tried asking for 90 metres of visibility (national speed limit, single track road with very little traffic, nobody ever goes that fast) and they also asked me to "demonstrate control" over the visibility splay which would have meant negotiating some deal with 3 neighbours. then I found another planning application on the same road very close that had been passed with 60 metre visibility and no requirement to demonstrate control over the land. When I pointed this out, they reduced mine to the same requirement.

So what was this render applied to? Presumably direct to some form of external wall insulation? If he is saying cement board is the only way to get it flat, then by implication he is also saying the surface that he was presented with to apply the render to was not flat to start with. More information and pictures before the render went on?

Forget the idea of the resistance heating electric boiler. If you are going to heat the house by electricity then a heat pump is what you need. In very approximate figures that will give you 3kW of heat for every 1kW of electricity it consumes, bringing the cost of electric heating close to the cost of gas heating (at current rates, who know about the future) The solar PV and batteries make sense and you will have plenty of electrical devices to use all that the solar PV can produce.