ProDave

If you can't force water through that loop with 3 bar pressure, then there is a serious blockage. Pipe kinked flat at a bend perhaps?

Usual question, has it ever worked? Probably an air lock in that loop, i.e. it wasn't bled properly.

When I moved into my 1930's semi 35 years ago, it had storage heaters and an open coal fire. In that first winter I would get home from work to a cold house, even with the storage heaters on max, and then light the open fire. I later upgraded to a gas fire (LPG bottles) but at least it was instant heat. I have a theory that storage heaters tend to let the heat out quite high up, and with a poorly insulated house (no floor insulation) even if the rest of the room gets warm, there is a pool of cold air at floor level that never gets warmed properly. Fitting under floor heating in our last house was a revalation, no more pool of cold air at floor level.

That would be going some. My joiners took best part of a day for 2 men to hang 9 Oak doors into door liners I had already fitted. Not including architrave.

Oxygen free copper is the best.

Can you post a very close up picture of your actual cartridge on your boiler. I bet there is some form of catch that it clicks into first before you put the screws in.

So which direction is your current aerial pointing? (approximate compass bearing)

Don't forget on a small job like this, it will take the electrician much longer to look at the job, see what's needed, and then go and get the parts, than it will to actually do the job. If he just charges you 1 hour labour, he will be losing out big time and might as well not bothered doing the job.

The ethernet cables in my house are left coiled up in the service void next to the sockets, I put them in as it was easy and cheap when building but only ONE is in use, to connect my old desktop computer in my office. The rest will probably not get used, everything else is wifi. Unless you like a lot of unused sockets I would do the same. It will be easy to cut out a backbox hole in the unlikely event you actually find a use for them.

That will be me then. I don't advertise and I don't even have the courtesy any more to tell the likes of checkatrade to clear off and stop pestering me, I am not interested in their service. All my work comes from personal recommendations.

Laminate is usually laid as a floating floor? I guess you could first use some tile adhesive as a levelling compound.

After you enter your postcode, scroll down to this bit Main thing is do you get green for good reception?

I think currently Solis is a recommended make of inverter. Fit a generation meter for your own use, so you can see how much you have generated. 2.5mm twin and earth from inverter to CU How to connect to CU, post a picture of your CU first, that is possibly the hardest bit to get right. You need to notify the DNO under G98 that will need some paperwork, but nothing too complicated. you notify after connection. And as a separate thing without export payments you want to be load shifting to self use as much as possible, so washing machine etc only on in the daytime one at a time close to mid day, and fit a solar PV diverter to sent excess power to your immersion heater, that will pretty well guarantee nothing significant gets exported. Oh and respect those DC cables, they will be live now.

Storage heaters are far from perfect, in fact a lot of people describe them as utter rubbish (sometimes using rude words) But in a house with no mains gas, they are often the cheapest option, or were. They work better in an office where they only have to deliver heat until 5PM and nobody cares if they are stone cold in the evening. They also work better on Economy 10 which has it's 10 hours of cheap rate spread at 3 different times of day so they don't have to keep heat stored in for as long. The flap that opens to let the heat out is controlled by the output control. There is usually a bi metalic strip mechanism that attempts to give it some control so the more the core temperature falls the more the flap opens to let the heat out quicker. There is also a crude mechanism that is supposed to close the flap whenever the heater is receiving a charge, perhaps that mechanism was faulty on yours? But really that mechanism is only there for people who forget to turn the output control back to zero when they go to bed. The modern one that uses a fan to circulate the heat would probably annoy me if the fan was not silent. Nothing you can do about that one now. The only alternatives in a house without gas are an Air Source Heat Pump and I suspect you might not be advising that, or oil fired boiler.

If you want that level of performance go for MVHR. Use the shower light fitting as the MVHR extract in the bathroom if you want to keep the light fitting.

What have you got against plasterboard boxes? Easier for all trades and you get some choice of final socket positions near final fix not all rigigly set at first fix. a 35 mm dry lining box is a good fit in 25mm battens and 12.5mm plasterboard.

Picture?

Storage heaters charge up with heat from usually 7 hours of cheap rate electricity from roughhy midnight to 7AM, so at 5AM they will have been charging for 5 hours so the brick core will be close to it's maximum temperature by then. No surprise it feels very hot. The trick is to keep the "output" control down as low as possible as long as possible to keep the heat in as much as possible and then turn the output control up in the evening to let the remaining heat out quicker. Some try and automate this a bit with crude bimetailic mechanism. If you changed them just a few years ago they won't be the bomb proof simple old type, but something more complicated with electronic controls and a permanent supply as well as the off peak supply. These tend to concentrate on maintaining a constant temperature, using peak rate electricity to make up any short fall in stored heat. I would not personally choose that type, I would have kept the old one. Most bits of the old ones can be fixed or replaced.

Your signal is pretty weak. Can you do anything to improve it, bigger aerial, higher aerial, re align the aerial etc, or even try a different location for the aerial. What does the signal checker database say here? https://www.freeview.co.uk/corporate/detailed-transmitter-information

What boiler, where, what fuel, and most important question, has it EVER worked properly with this controller, or did it work properly with a previous controller?

That's because the wind is not blowing and we don't have enough storage. I could have told you that as well. And as for our energy crisis in general, there was a member on here predicting this 2 or 3 years ago, mainly about our ageing nuclear stations mostly just about at end of life some have been extended just a little, but that is a lot of generation about to be lost and the replacements are only just being ordered. Wind farms are great and clean, but when there is no wind you need a backup. It's about time our planning actually said we will retain a certain amount of fossil fuel capacity to be used in such circumstances. It's a good job there were still a couple of coal fired stations that had not been torn down or we would have been in trouble this winter.

Switzerland may have to ban the use of EV's this winter as there is not enough electricity to charge them. https://hotair.com/jazz-shaw/2022/12/01/swiss-look-to-ban-use-of-electric-cars-over-the-winter-to-save-energy-n514785 I have speculated before, not much point in mass adoption of EV's until there is sufficient renewable power to charge them and the grid is capable of supporting the massive extra load that will be needed.

Find the appropriate menu on your tv to show signal strength and quality. It is is marginal, then it only takes a small dip in signal or a bit of electrical interference to break up the signal. It is all or nothing, there is no such thing like in the old days of the picture gradually getting worse as the signal drops.

I am not sure what he is suggesting there. Either the builder buys it and zero rates it to you, or you buy it on your own account from the merchant and the invoice clearly gives your name and address. You will pay the VAT up front and re claim it at the end of the year. Obviously keep all the invoices.

Re the earlier question do builders get a better price. Very debatable. they may get more "trade discount" than you could get with your own account, but they have little incentive to spend hours phoning all the different merchants to seek the best price, or look on line etc. they are more likely just to place an order with their favourite merchant and not haggle as "the customer pays" So you might do what all us penny pinching under funded self builders do and spend hours getting the best deal on absolutely everything. I guess it depends how much time you have free for that and how good you think you are at it.