ProDave

Well that is my "summer" programmer now on the wall and the one with winter times set, put away for 6 months. I will see how it works now it is automated. Of course the theory works well on a sunny day. A lot is talked about "weather compensation" but for me, proper weather compensation would be turning the heating on and off to properly match available PV generation.

If you do return it, just say it leaks. Don't try arguing the perfection or otherwise of a soldered joint and say it might leak one day.

When I say a summer / winter setting, I want something that has 2 (or more) sets of heating TIMES. So in winter the heating comes on at 6AM so it is warm by the time we get up and stays on all day. In spring / autumn when not a lot of heat is needed, it can all be done an hour or 2 either side of mid day when it is near certain there will be lots of surplus PV to use up. So a different set of on off times. Something that would let you have 2 sets of on / off programs entered and easily switch between them is something I would like to buy, but fear it is something I will have to make. Ha ha, thinking about it, I may have a "solution" I actually have a "spare" 3 channel programmer. The spare is not of much use, as it is missing it's back plate (the connector plate that goes on the wall) But it is a simple job to unclip from the back plate, so I could have one of them set to winter timings and the other set to summer timings and just interchange them. I think they call this "thinking outside the box"

Still a little too cold for heating completely off here. I recon an average outside temp of 10 degrees is needed. Still only an average of 7.4 over 24 hours here. So what I have been doing is putting the heating on for 2 hours in the middle of the day so it is entirely powered by surplus PV. Bit of a pain to do that manually, and even more a pain to change the timings on the heating programmer. Anyone know a 3 channel heating programmer that has (at least) 2 sets of on off programs and an easy way to switch between the summer heating times and winter heating times? Sounds like another DIY project but it would be making it with some form of user interface that is not too geeky?

A nylon netting I think called "netlon" or similar was always the normal way. You lay it over the joists draping down, and fix it to the sides of each joist at the bottom to keep it taught across the bottom. They don't need to be strong or thick, I ripped left over OSB sheets into thin strips for this. Then lay the insulation in. I like the Knauf frametherm type insulation, much nicer to handle than most glass wool products and it won't slump. Cut it to your joist spacing with a panel saw while still on the roll still wrapped up. Random link. Don't assume this is the best or cheapest supplier. https://www.insulationsuperstore.co.uk/product/insulation-support-netting-2m-x-100m-white.html

Usually the cavity is filled below DPC so there is no "cavity" there. As there will be a cold bridge from the beams out through the wall, I would perhaps mitigate this a bit by not taking the UFH all the way to the edge of the floor, as another way of giving the heat further to travel to get out of the house.

Can you explain this better? Are you saying the 4" pipe from the cooker hood is venting INTO the cold loft space? It should not do that, it should be routed either to a 4" soffit vent ot a roof tile vent.

STOP right there. 50mm EPS is nowhere near enough insulation under UFH. 100mm absolute minimum, 150mm much better.

If your 2 containers are physically attached to each other you could be on a sticky wicket. Unless you are using it as one wide space, I would have kept them as 2 separate containers with a small gap, matching doorways cut and a very short connecting link that was built to be removable so allowing them so still be lifted as individual containers.

My impression is all his questions are about the neighbours extension, trying to find something "wrong" in what they are doing. But he won't post pictures for us all to see he just PM's some to those that ask.

I am paying 32.56p/kWh and 57.33p/day standing charge. You are paying 16p more for your day rate. You would have to be using a lot more off peak than day rate to make that worthwhile.

I used Multipanel and always have done. BUT check how they are made now. Mine are the original ones with a marine ply backing, but I recall readinf somewhere that due to supply issues they had switched to MDF. Can anyone that has used them recently confirm or deny that. Do NOT buy them from a "bathroom shop" The local one here wanted nearly 3 times the price for them that Jewsons supplied them for.

All interesting stuff, but it comes back to use natural gas as the soruce (bad) or we need a LOT more renewable electricity going spare to make it carbon neutral. Something for the future when (if we ever get there) there is more renewable electricity being generated than we know what to do with.

A quick search found this as an idea

Probably easier to buy threaded rod and cut to length, a nut on each end.

Have you considered one of the "wet wall" type products like multipanel?

If you would post some pictures of all the things that are troubling you, people may be able to give meaningful replies.

Many of us are watching this with interest. Please keep us posted with progress, good or bad. Most of us will be hoping that Octopus break the mould and manage to give affordable ASHP installations that work, in all types of housing. If they succeed in providing a cost effective install on an older property like this then ASHP's will be a viable alternative to boilers.

It needs an admin to change a users name, it is beyond the humble powers of a moderator. I am sure one will be along soon to help.

Based on a recent thread, if you pay the £500 deposit, pay it on a CREDIT CARD.

Can you explain this please. Does the account just need to have an overdraft facility, or actually be in debt and using that overdraft facility? and how long does that overdraft have to remain?

No different to water sitting in any of the other grooves in a deck board. The whole frame is set with a slight fall away from the house to try and prevent that.

So what if anything is wrong with my idea of a bead of clear sealant in each deck board joint? It would stop most water getting through and still allow a bit of movement. Unless someone tells me why not, that is my plan.

If you look back the the photos of the deck frame, all sides have a solid edge, so a drooping membrane would just serve as a bucket to collect stagnant smelly water with no means of escape.

I used 12mm ply as a floor at 300mm centres for the mezanine (I wanted to minimise floor build up) and I thought that was pushing it.