Tom
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Everything posted by Tom
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Thanks @Temp, is it just a matter of putting a 13A plug on the pump wires and plugging in? Happy Christmas by the way!
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The boiler is set at 25 degrees, so I could increase the temperature, wire up the manifold pump and rely on the mixer to set the temp?
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Um, because it's only pumping at 14l/min, as I said!
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All seems to be working without it, just only at 14l/min
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Ummmm.... Well, I wired the earth's in to the socket!
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At full flow the inbuilt pump goes at about 14l/min, which means white a low flow through each of the 11 loops (barely registering on the flow meters). Should I wire up the manifold pump? Is it a matter of just putting a 13A plug on it?
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Hmmm, also included pulling through about 15m of armoured cable and connecting to our existing supply. Still seemed a bit steep tbh, especially as they haven't actually finished the job and then effed off for Christmas. Though TBH I'm fed up with the whole process now, just seem to be surrounded the whole time by f@ckwits and just want it all finished. To top it all I am paying 12.5% to a project manager who just seems to be a glorified email/WhatsApp forwarding service.
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Will get one of these tomorrow and do it myself: https://www.toolstation.com/bg-45a-low-profile-dp-switch/p51324 I wonder how much off the £800 I was charged for this the electrician will give me?
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Ah, of course
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So definitely not twist the wires together and wrap with electrical tape?
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OK, just spoke to the electrician. Seems like his worker used the 13A fused switch just as a temporary thing to get power to it to test the boiler, and was waiting on a 50A double pole switch which he didn't receive in time. So just left it like that. Good of him to tell me. It's on an RCBO in the consumer unit, so he says I don't need the fuse and just a switch will suffice. Though TBH why he bothered with a switch anyway is beyond me. It's only a few meters away from the consumer unit and can easily be isolated from there. Anyway, is he right saying I don't need the fuse?
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Haven't got as picture unfortunately and am at work now, but it's essentially just the 10mm twin/earth going from the consumer unit in to the 13A fused socket (with an on/off switch) then a slightly thinner cable going to the boiler. Def sure it only needs one power in. Does it definitely need a fuse? Would it not be protected by the RCD in the consumer unit?
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My electrician has connected a 6kW electric boiler for us so we can start to get some heat through the screed. He has put in a temporary consumer unit, and then a 10mm twin and earth cable to the boiler - however this goes via a fused 13A socket. We have yet to fire up the boiler as we are missing a part, naturally, but I'm wondering if the 13A fuse is man for the job - if I = W/V then the max current draw at full throttle (6kW) would be 25 amps! Am I wrong?
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I used an impact adhesive in the end - this stuff: https://www.toolstation.com/evo-stik-contact-adhesive/p95550?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-Sox92RgwMVzMbtCh0TygmIEAQYAyABEgJMPvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Seemed to do the trick, less so on the cut PIR but seemed to hold sufficiently
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We have a 6m and 4m run of "Cor Vision Plus" sliders meeting at a moving corner, triple glazed and solar control glass, came in at around 30k in the end. Gulp.
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^^^ this We went down the Part Q then full planning for knock down and rebuild route, made things a lot easier than they might have been. Especially as the "survey" for the Part Q was a little optimistic, to say the least.
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Congrats, sounds exciting! You say a basic structural report states suitable for conversion - I'm guessing this was as part of the application relating to Part Q PD rights, is that correct? Tread carefully, as such structural surveys can be pretty much useless. You pay the structural surveyor to essentially say what you want them to say for the purpose of getting the Part Q. I would prioritise getting your own full survey done. Some pictures would be great if you could post them!
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tank museum
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Think yourself lucky, our suspended slab ended up with FOUR layers of A393 mesh. No idea re shear links though, sorry, but 100mm cts means 100mm centres, so spaced every 10cm.
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Have you thougt of getting sheets with flying ends? Makes overlaps easy.
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British Gas computer says no - why??
Tom replied to Tom's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
The issue, I think, is that they are massively oversubscribed for their ASHPs as they are so much cheaper than everyone else - any job that they might actually have to use some brain power and they just seem to want to sack it off. -
British Gas computer says no - why??
Tom replied to Tom's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Exactly! This is the thing, only one phase will be going to the consumer unit, like every other frigging house in the country, but that fact I had mentioned 3 phase just seemed to turn everyone in to brainless idiots. -
I'm effing livid. I was in the process of getting a quote from British Gas to fit our ASHP - I waited 6 weeks for a site "survey" and was told the actual fitting of it would be a 4 month wait after this. I was prepared to do this as their indicative quote was less than half others. I've even had an electric boiler fitted to get some heat in the interim. They now turn round and say that as we have 3-phase at the property they can't do it, as "none of their engineers can work on 3-phase, mate". WTF? Presumably my electician will be putting our consumer unit in and this will be wired up to one of the three phases (one of the other phases being used for our PV). The BG engineer will surely just be wiring up the ASHP to the consuer unit and so will be downstream of any 3-phase electrics. Is that right? I tried to explain this to the clueless BG guy on the other end of the line but it was just computer says no. Who's right here?
