Tom

good shout, was going to use the SDS drill but multi tool sounds better

I get what you're saying but we wanted it raised up a bit to form a bit more of a room-divider too.

Hi all - we are having our stove fitted in a few weeks so I need to think about siting it. Our floor is polished concrete and we plan to have the stove up on a concrete plinth. This is the stove we have: https://www.lacunza.net/ad-en/freestanding-stoves/verona-1000 - and I want to cast a similar sort of concrete base for it to sit on. There is a ducted air feed coming up underneath it, so the base will need to be hollow. My idea is to make a base with concrete blocks that is a few inches too narrow (bedded on mortar), then make a concrete former around the blocks that is a few inches longer/wider, then pour concrete between the former and the blocks. Would this work do you think? Any better ideas? Really can't think how best to do it, but could have some trial runs outside over the weekend. Thanks all

Roger that, thanks mate. Will swap out for a lower rated fuse.

^^ this, pipes set at the bottom of a 200mm concrete slab

I'm just going through this process now actually. My heat loss came out at very similar to yours, but the calculations that various ashp suppliers came back with was anything from 5kW ro 15kW. Anyway, quotes for an ashp in the 8-9kW range came in at about £5.5k (after the 7.5k grant taken off). Seems like a nice little earner for a few days work... I questioned the EDF salesman why I would have to pay £1.5k for "design" and he just came up with a load of sales bollocks. Anyway, I've settled on a local-ish firm who will fit an 8.5kW ecodan for £2700 net.

Ah yes, litre/min was what I meant. Think you'd get more heat transfer by convection at 1.5litre/hr

Still only 1-1.5L/hr in each of the 11 loops though. Should it be more than that? Boiler set at 50deg, mixer vallve set at 35deg, temp in top manifold hovering around 20-25deg and return about 15deg

Cheers mate, took the plung and did just that. Got the Grundfos pump set at "Constant Pressure 3 - Max". Sounded like a jacuzzi in there for a long time but now settled down, think the auto air vent has done it's thing.

Thanks @Temp, is it just a matter of putting a 13A plug on the pump wires and plugging in? Happy Christmas by the way!

The boiler is set at 25 degrees, so I could increase the temperature, wire up the manifold pump and rely on the mixer to set the temp?

Um, because it's only pumping at 14l/min, as I said!

All seems to be working without it, just only at 14l/min

Ummmm.... Well, I wired the earth's in to the socket!

At full flow the inbuilt pump goes at about 14l/min, which means white a low flow through each of the 11 loops (barely registering on the flow meters). Should I wire up the manifold pump? Is it a matter of just putting a 13A plug on it?

So, this is the wiring. I've put in the 45A switch myself. All fired up and seems to be working.

Hmmm, also included pulling through about 15m of armoured cable and connecting to our existing supply. Still seemed a bit steep tbh, especially as they haven't actually finished the job and then effed off for Christmas. Though TBH I'm fed up with the whole process now, just seem to be surrounded the whole time by f@ckwits and just want it all finished. To top it all I am paying 12.5% to a project manager who just seems to be a glorified email/WhatsApp forwarding service.

Will get one of these tomorrow and do it myself: https://www.toolstation.com/bg-45a-low-profile-dp-switch/p51324 I wonder how much off the £800 I was charged for this the electrician will give me?

Ah, of course

So definitely not twist the wires together and wrap with electrical tape?

OK, just spoke to the electrician. Seems like his worker used the 13A fused switch just as a temporary thing to get power to it to test the boiler, and was waiting on a 50A double pole switch which he didn't receive in time. So just left it like that. Good of him to tell me. It's on an RCBO in the consumer unit, so he says I don't need the fuse and just a switch will suffice. Though TBH why he bothered with a switch anyway is beyond me. It's only a few meters away from the consumer unit and can easily be isolated from there. Anyway, is he right saying I don't need the fuse?

Haven't got as picture unfortunately and am at work now, but it's essentially just the 10mm twin/earth going from the consumer unit in to the 13A fused socket (with an on/off switch) then a slightly thinner cable going to the boiler. Def sure it only needs one power in. Does it definitely need a fuse? Would it not be protected by the RCD in the consumer unit?

My electrician has connected a 6kW electric boiler for us so we can start to get some heat through the screed. He has put in a temporary consumer unit, and then a 10mm twin and earth cable to the boiler - however this goes via a fused 13A socket. We have yet to fire up the boiler as we are missing a part, naturally, but I'm wondering if the 13A fuse is man for the job - if I = W/V then the max current draw at full throttle (6kW) would be 25 amps! Am I wrong?

I used an impact adhesive in the end - this stuff: https://www.toolstation.com/evo-stik-contact-adhesive/p95550?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=null&pkw=null&pmt=null&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-Sox92RgwMVzMbtCh0TygmIEAQYAyABEgJMPvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Seemed to do the trick, less so on the cut PIR but seemed to hold sufficiently

We have a 6m and 4m run of "Cor Vision Plus" sliders meeting at a moving corner, triple glazed and solar control glass, came in at around 30k in the end. Gulp.