MikeGrahamT21

Totally agree with this, and i think that goes even further than just the building trade, think electric cars, all those batteries! No consideration is given to end of life for products, its all about making a quick profit and moving on. For me i think a lot will change in the coming years with regards to plastic based chemicals, I was reading this article the other day... https://www.theguardian.com/society/2021/aug/31/pfas-toxic-forever-chemicals-air-breathing Sounds like the manufacturers witheld information to make the chemicals look fine, when in actual fact they aren't, and now cover alsorts in the modern home. Another thing we fail to understand is how chemicals interact with each other, and this also goes into the wider world, farming etc, the chemicals get tested in isolation, but never together which is how they are used in the real world.

lol, i wish i could blame playing squash, at least it would be a good reason for it. I feel like theres something not quite right around my neck, or maybe more the top of my back, difficult to describe really. With any luck the hospital may do some scans. Will give a few things a try out and see what difference it makes, thanks for the suggestion

Thanks mate, its been a proper struggle but i'll be damned if its going to stop me getting this bungalow to where i wanted it to be all those years ago when i first learnt about passive house (not that it will be a passive house, but you know). Can't wait til its all done, sit down on the sofa with a decent film on ?

Had an hour or two after work doing a bit more today, up to the cutting stage next so will leave that for tomorrow afternoon while I’m off work.

Thanks, hope all goes well for you too. Really interesting that you say about the wobbles, as I have got increasingly unsteady on my feet/legs these days, forever wobbling and even fell for the first time ever earlier this year and smash my head on concrete. I guess i'll find out at some point. Sick of waking up in the night with completely dead arms even if im not laid on them, another symptom of whatever is going on.

I'll give it a clean out before it gets fired up again ? 13 years old and still going strong that thing, just with 2 new capcitors soldered in 4 years ago. I've had the dust sheet over it while i've been making mega mess

Oh just to mention also, just in case you think im losing my marbles (which is probably 75% true anyway!), the radiator pipes are in the right place, i was going to move the radiator to where its hung at the moment, but changed my mind, and decided to leave it on the wall more for storage as its full of water to prevent it rusting, so it will be moving when i've replastered the wall under the window.

Thanks, i'm currently in the queue waiting for a Neurology appointment at the moment, been on with it all since January, and not really any further aside from a physio telling me that i have a problem somewhere in my nervous system. Don't blame you for wanting a break, sometimes it gets a bit much, i'm dreading all the appointments to be honest!

I think technically speaking, building control do require a boost switch, so you may have little choice, and I may well have to put one in just to say its there, but from what ive experienced, its just not required.

No mines a vortice, with the optional humidistat, i've located the sensor in the extract ducting near the MVHR itself. It catches kitchen and bathroom humidity increase very well.

Having not had the best of years health wise this year, which has unfortunately made the decision for me that someone else will have to build the side extension, i thought i'd get a bit more work done, but rather than the norm of a room taking me 3 days tops, i've spent weeks on this one, slowly picking it apart and now putting it back together (admittedly it is the biggest area of the bungalow). This is the last room which needed everything out, so I can finally say goodbye to woodwormed timbers (and this one didn't disappoint). This one was quite a bigger task than some others, as I've reopened the chimney breast, which I'm going to board out and put my AV receiving, and bluray/tv box, and in a few weeks when i've had a rest, i've got an acoustic partition to install which will cut sound down between mine and my next door neighbour. Heres how far i've got up to now... This was a before after i'd taken the fireplace out (to be relocated into the to be built dining room) and opened up the chimney breast Discovered a LOT of soot, one of the owners must have had a coal open fire at some point, so cleared as much off as I could and washed it all down. Will put a tube from under the floor into the chimney stack to provide a ventilation source, chimney pot is capped, but has ventilation built in. This room is probably the worst for rubbish out of them all, so a good clean out... Quick re-wire, and new joists in place... Base layer 20mm insulation... And topped up... The top layer was re-used from what was down, hence it being a bit worse for wear, but the 20mm layer is well sealed below. Some of the bits have popped back up a little from when i foamed them, but i couldn't move at this point my back had totally gone, so will sort it out when i do the next stage. Next to do is airtight membrane, and then the chipboard back down which was taken up. The floor in the chimney area will be formed when i've done the main floor, life without a TV is slightly boring lol! So yeah more to follow when i can actually move again and do the work

Just had a look at the manual, and I believe that is called a splayed angle, though having looked online I can't find any ready made. I should think a steel fabricator will be able to knock you one up in a matter of seconds for not much money. Depending on its weight, you could use quite a few of these: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/71297-2-hole-135-angle-bracket-for-strut-sold-in-1-s Looks like there is an angled bit on the back of the MVHR which grabs onto the bracket, so these would likely suffice, and you could also put a length of 4x2 underneath it for additional support as a just in-case. My humidistat kicks in very fast, as soon as it reaches the desired humidity, i don't have any manual boost switches, they're just another thing to wire in that wouldn't get used.

They’ll definitely be on channel 4s streaming service. All ones I’ve seen so far have been in England, but may still be useful.

Yeah shower every morning, very rarely have a bath

104L per day for just me, 62m2 living floor area. According to the report for sustainability, we should be aiming for around 100L per person per day, so i'm not too far off

Just seen this, gives me a solid 30% off everything. Agreed TP aren't the cheapest for most stuff, but with the code, they're looking very good. Use code: DEADLINEDAY Even works for things like Velux windows, but they don't stock all the sizes, and sods law not the ones i'm after!

How the other half live hey! Great find for us normal folk though lol

Have you been watching the George Clark and Charlie Luxton (C4 and More4)? They've been doing programs about this exact topic. From what i've seen the rebuild costs are always much greater than anticipated, as something always throws up a spanner in the works. Remember everything has to be to building regs, and they have the final say. That concrete floor is going to have to come up for a new modern insulated slab for a start, i'd bet that will be the best part of £7k there alone. P.S This is assuming you are converting it into a home...

Looking at your photo, i'd say the yellowness is more to do with ambient lighting, the island is much whiter on the photo. Obviously get the island replaced, thats technically not right, so shouldn't be a problem. You can always paint the walls in a warmer shade to cool the worktops down, use cool white lights (which are recommended for kitchens anyway), and let it settle with you a bit, and the wood floor will certainly help. Don't judge it until the room is complete, paint can change alsorts.

Maybe get in touch with someone who paints kitchen cabinet doors as their job, they will use a sprayer and may be able to better achieve the finish you are after.

Kitchen brands tend to use big name paints, farrow and ball and little greene, found this… https://www.littlegreene.com/marine-blue

Does this mean you would only put that bit on the door which is in front... Look at the greyed out door, and the finger pointing. Rear door has this on it

Beyond me...greatful they weren't an option when i got them lol

Your mechanisms look to be right compared to diagram, whats on the next instructions?

Thats the soft close mechanism, looks like the bracket screws to it, and then it and the bracket screw to the door itself. How have you fitted them?