MikeGrahamT21

performs just like silicone, real easy to tool down, and get a good shine on it if you need that finish. Last lot I smoothed with finger and soapy water, really must get some tools, been looking at fugenfux silicone spatulas but they’re bloody expensive!

As I said before, CT1, Hybrid filler and sealant, has the strength and flexibility, but is also paintable.

CT1 before decorating, ensure frame is super clean and run a bit of fine sandpaper along window wall join to give a better key. silicone is OK til you come to redecorate. definitely not caulk, always ends up cracking

A favourite blog of mine has written about this compared with Go, and created a complex spreadsheet to calculate costs between both tarriffs: https://protonsforbreakfast.wordpress.com/2023/02/23/tariff-calculations-octopus-go-versus-octopus-flux/

absolutely, there should as a minimum be a continuous bead of adhesive along both top and bottom of the plasterboards, pretty sure that’s been the official guidance from PB manufacturers for a good while

Thats an excellent thermal image of why dot and dab is so bad!! Without ripping it all off, you could drill holes along the perimeter all way round, but only where it sounds hollow, the solid bits will be where the dots are, and inject some FM330 airtight expanding foam, but not silly amounts, this should seal the gaps up. In my experience though, its slightly pointless, you would need to do top, bottom, and corners, but even then, a crack in the mortar or blockwork (very common with most traditional masonry construction methods), will again let air circulate in the cavity between plasterboard and blockwork. Its a very hard problem to solve without taking everything off and wet plastering. You may be lucky and get a parge coat which would possibly solve the cracking issue, but if its a developer house, i wouldn't expect that. Expanding foam top bottom and corners inbetween the dots may give you some resolution.

If you are looking for seamless, you need to be buying a mesh network product. I've had Tenda, connected to router, and then ensure you turn off the routers wifi, but I've now got a TP-Link Archer setup, the router itself has OneMesh built in, so just had to buy a compatible Mesh adapter to join into it, works a treat. Got the VR600 from Ebay (Be careful you get one which does support OneMesh, as they don't all support it), and adapter off amazon, both bits cost me the grand sum of £60, Tenda setup was similar price. The 'mixed signals' you speak of is because the BSSID of the Wireless network will differ on the extender to the router, meaning you'll get a disconnect and reconnect. A mesh network allows you to keep the same BSSID on all devices, and 802.11r allows fast roaming, no loss of connection.

And don't forget the upstand all way round!

Yeah that article I linked kind of goes into that a bit and perhaps suggests they just take the easiest approach.

Are you not able to use fixing clips off of the frame for top and sides to the inner leaf? They should just be to stop movement, and not actually load bearing, all of the load should be on the bottom. http://aluminiumwindows.co.uk/blog/strap-fix-fit-bifold-doors/

My export MPAN request has now been accepted, so should be registered in the coming weeks, and then will consider this once its launched

Interesting, thanks for highlighting. I've just started the application for Octopus Outgoing, to increase my export from 50% deemed at 6p to actual export (near 50%) at 15p. This tarriff would increase that to min 23p, and max 36.5p, with the ability to also charge the battery during the cheaper period through the night in the winter months. Will keep an eye on this as another potential to be better off. I don't have, or plan to have, an electric vehicle so the Go tarriff is not for me anyway

That answers that concern, thank you!

Induction hobs in general are great, had mine for years and you can really tell the difference even in the air over cooking on gas. The built in extractors look good in practice, the ones i've seen in showrooms look slightly ugly (but then i guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder right?), but i think my main concern would be my classic trick of spilling something, pan boiling over, or dropping food down the holes. No idea if thats even an issue or not?

Ahh i get what you mean, i thought you were floating this over the top to get rid of both the gap and the thermal bridge from the internal blockwork. How about something a little bit like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175408005770

I got a sample of this stuff ages ago and it’s rather crazy, you can screw into it like timber. you should be able to fix it to the inner leaf, either with metal screw and washer, or you could use a shortish plastic external wall insulation fixing like these: https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-dipk-insulation-render-fixing/p42435?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAiA_6yfBhBNEiwAkmXy5wOfdWzUTcYgnzaAqhy3S3hBgsFY4-7cYfyyzzq_fauWaT1pXgvM9RoCTeQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds you may well need to look for a smaller pack size tho!! 😂

You wouldn't use foil tape to make the join to the masonry, it wouldn't stick properly for a start. The masonry is pre-primed with airtight primer, and then in this case I used Tyvek Airtight Tape to make the seal. At the top of the roof, the insulation butted up to the timber wall plate, so I used the foil tape here to make the join as it adhered fine.

This isn't correct, you can use foil tape to form a VCL, and since i've done this myself i know its done right. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/knowledge-articles/what-is-the-purpose-of-a-vapour-control-layer/

Yes, 25mm air gap as standard

You are spot on, I personally just divide the roof construction into warm/cold and its definitely not cold. You'll start to run into more questions with BCO when you start using phrases like 'Hybrid', as long as you are using a BBA approved build up, then its already pre-approved with BCO.

Imagery looks good from what i can tell, but I can't read the text, image is too small, and when magnified it just goes fuzzy. Assuming you have all of your elevations and plan view?

There are but these aren't part of this particular extension, its installed in the kitchen which was the first one i did, around 2012.

Definitely not the experience i've had. Have a look in my blog, the last lot i did are in there for the purpose of helping others, but please bear in mind, that they are for extensions and not a whole build, though having done 4 seperate extensions each with their own submission i've practically rebuilt the whole house lol

I still don’t think you need it. If you are paying a 3rd party to draw up plans for you, they should have the knowledge of building regs and be able to submit a successful application first time. I have drawn my own plans for years and never once failed on first application. They may ask for additional calculation if you are building something out of the ordinary, and we now have Part O for overheating which needs calculation, could also be structural calcs required which would need structural engineer. the only bit which may delay the build is if they ask for a soil survey for your foundations, but you’ll know about this very quickly, BC is not like planning, doesn’t have to go to a committee, you get assigned a BCO, they will check plans, and if necessary query anything if needs be and this will happen in weeks not months. and if you want more speed, use a private BCO, generally the same cost. hope this clears it up for you.

Personally think it’s a waste of money to pay someone to look over them. If you submit full plans they need to comply with all current regs, but that is only an if, you can go with building notice without submitting any plans at all, this tends to be the way with run of the mill construction and having a firm in to do the building. If your building something complex or building yourself then it’s probably worthwhile not only getting someone to check the plans, but to draw them up unless you are confident that you know the regs for what you are building.