MikeGrahamT21

Tesla batteries use the less common Lithium NMC, majority of DC batteries use Lithium Ferrous Phosphate, each have their advantages, NMC is better in low temperatures hence why powerwalls are generally seen externally on marketing material. LFP is safer and generally more efficient at lower SOC. from google When it comes to safety, LFP batteries beat NMCs due to their stable lithium chemistry. Even at higher temperatures, the Lithium Iron Phosphate chemistry is more stable than Nickel Manganese Cobalt. if it’s going inside I would rule Tesla out myself. I’ve got an ac coupled setup with pylontech batteries, I’ve written a blog about my experiences so far, on the forum, I can link it if you can’t find it

Sucking up warm air and passing it through a heat exchanger which isn't 100% efficient, surely leaving the warm air where it is, displace it with filtered cool air with recovered heat would be more efficient overall? The humidity helps with the heat exchange too, so by pulling from hallway you would be drying that air somewhat, and reducing efficiency? Maybe i'm wrong here, i'm no expert, just doesn't necessarily seem sensible

Maybe he misunderstands the regulations, as even tho he said it must be done before cert, he couldn't do it at the time as he'd broken his finger, and hasn't been badgering to come and do it, it's down to me to get back to him. Even so, i think it'll have to get done before any certs. I'll leave it for now, no rush anyway, and the "issue" with the plastic boxes isn't really an issue if you make sure the neutrals are done up correctly, which they are as i've checked them. Thanks for the info, cleared it up and quite possibly saved me £500, so much appreciated!

Yeah it was all nice and neat and made sense before the person who installed the battery came along with said chunky marker pen! The one to the right of battery, which isn't actually labelled, powers a single socket, and needs wiring into the main ring when i get 5mins, I could then move the battery along and stick a blanking plate in the gap which will make it spot on. I thought that about the minor works certificate, but he said he couldn't do it, which i guess leaves me in the position of needing to do what he says before he will issue the cert. Mind saying that it wouldn't be the first Building Regs which has stalled because of lack of electrical certs. I don't think he ran any earthing tests, or if he did i didn't see him do it.

Ahh that kinda makes sense, the only reason i realised the backup power was working, was the left hand 80A breaker tripped yesterday for some reason, but only the loads on the split side were being powered (Battery and to the right of it), unless i'm just being a pillack and it was because the main 100A switch was still on? Will try turning the master switch off and see what happens. EDIT: Yeah i was being an idiot lol, master switch off killed everything, inverter still powered from the battery but no loads powered. So last year had the main ring extended to cover a few sockets in the new extension, and he said before he could certify he'd have to change the consumer unit so everything was up to spec.

I've got to have my consumer unit upgraded as part of some electrical works last year so that the chap can issue a certificate, its a plastic CU at the moment. Recently my battery storage inverter had a firmware upgrade which enabled backup power supply through its normal circuitry (not the EPS), but my current CU has 2 sides (split load I think it was called at the time), and it only powers the side that its currently connected to. That got me thinking was there a CU which didn't have the split, and as far as I can see that would be an RCBO CU like this one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortress-12-module-6-way-populated-main-switch-consumer-unit/270VF. Does that sound right? Just so I know what i need to ask for. Cheers Mike

I've been using these for a year or so, best ones i've used so far: https://ruwag.co.uk/collections/sds-drill-bits/products/sds-plus-rebar-5-piece-drill-set

I can't even remember what happened yesterday never mind 30 odd years ago! 🤣

I'd be very against anything like that. There is so much we have left to learn about our planet, and we have a bit of a track record when it comes to recommending something, to which later is pulled because its dangerous or has the opposite effect!

This is also interesting for a read: https://earth.org/data_visualization/a-brief-history-of-co2/ And this one does go back a long way

Will have a watch thanks. I personally can't make my mind up whether its happening or not, its certainly a good ploy to make some $$ if its not real. I do think we are looking at such a narrow amount of time though for our trends, hundreds of years, when in fact we should be looking at 10's if not 100's of thousands of years to spot the trend. He seems to stop at 2000 in his data, at which time the trends look like this: The actual and predicted trends are polar opposites

The prices are now available by region, this is mine:

All well and good too if your smart meter plays ball. My SMETS2 meter stopped working 17th March and has never worked since. Raised with Octopus, but nothing fixed so far.

It could get rather expensive in winter without a Battery, the ability to charge at cheap times and use that energy to avoid peak periods would be priceless in the depths of winter

Don't forget if you buy a new Kettle it'll make its money back within a couple years (Quote: Boris) 🤣

This graphic has been knocking around for a few years, theres no doubt that all needs to happen to get to absolutely zero, but I can't see a lot of it happening if i'm honest, but then thats probably why the elites have been playing around with the idea of population reduction for years. Saw a funny headline this morning regarding EV's, saying that older car parks would likely collapse under the weight of EVs if they accounted for all vehicles, so they will need to be rebuilt/strengthened. I mean who actually thought lugging around several tons of battery was a good idea? The fuel cell must prevail here.

29th March was last time I had the heating on, definitely an earlier switch off this year compared to last. Haven’t felt the need to put it back on again. Also have been off grid in terms of electricity for the best part of a month with the battery storage hitting full charge most days now.

I have 5.2.2 setup with downward firing speakers in ceiling, and an AV receiver, so don’t have the issue of eARC, but I can tell you there is definitely a big difference between my AV receivers emulated atmos vs the real thing. a friend has the same issue with his TV and sonos arc, he said there was a HDMI splitter which would overcome the issue but at a cost! https://www.techhive.com/article/579105/hdfury-4k-arcana-review.html it seems to be the only thing around which does this at the moment.

One thing I have just noticed is when the battery gets to 99% it slows the charging rate down to around 300W, and exports the remainder of generation, perhaps this limits the parasitic reactions in the battery

It’s entirely possible yeah

quite possibly would be better having a DOD at 80% and max charge 80% but 40% is a lot to lose to protect the cells, besides there is no functionality on my inverter to do the max charge setting. how much more do you spend before it would just be easier to replace after 15 years (design lifetime of pylontech C series), you’d hope in 15 years time tech would either be a lot better, cheaper or both. I’ve had system over a year now and only lost 1% SoH

theres 3 separate entries for the battery, updates on the progress i made I too was disappointed at first but I did make good in the end with many tweaks from the manufacturer of the inverter, but it can never be zero, I went into it thinking that was how it would be, but totally understand now why it can’t be achieved, at least on a system like this with CT clamp

Have a read of my blog, I covered this exact subject when I got my battery system installed, hopefully it’ll help you too. My import on a day with no requirement to import is around 0.3kwh, I’ve explained the reasons why you will never get to zero in the piece.

Just checked this and yeah you’re right, a very bizarre specification but here it is and the corresponding thickness of XPS showing R value so assuming this is wet underfloor heating, it’ll need around 25mm XPS, which should be doable with 20mm PIR. can’t quite get over that requirement, as it’s all inside the thermal envelope 🤷‍♂️

Heat won't go down into the room below, the only issue you may find is that the UFH's responsiveness is slow on this floor, since some of it will soak into the slab, however that slow responsiveness will end with a smoother heat curve, rather than fluctuations. If this is an issue, then any amount of insulation will slow this soak.