MikeGrahamT21

It could get rather expensive in winter without a Battery, the ability to charge at cheap times and use that energy to avoid peak periods would be priceless in the depths of winter

Don't forget if you buy a new Kettle it'll make its money back within a couple years (Quote: Boris) 🤣

This graphic has been knocking around for a few years, theres no doubt that all needs to happen to get to absolutely zero, but I can't see a lot of it happening if i'm honest, but then thats probably why the elites have been playing around with the idea of population reduction for years. Saw a funny headline this morning regarding EV's, saying that older car parks would likely collapse under the weight of EVs if they accounted for all vehicles, so they will need to be rebuilt/strengthened. I mean who actually thought lugging around several tons of battery was a good idea? The fuel cell must prevail here.

29th March was last time I had the heating on, definitely an earlier switch off this year compared to last. Haven’t felt the need to put it back on again. Also have been off grid in terms of electricity for the best part of a month with the battery storage hitting full charge most days now.

I have 5.2.2 setup with downward firing speakers in ceiling, and an AV receiver, so don’t have the issue of eARC, but I can tell you there is definitely a big difference between my AV receivers emulated atmos vs the real thing. a friend has the same issue with his TV and sonos arc, he said there was a HDMI splitter which would overcome the issue but at a cost! https://www.techhive.com/article/579105/hdfury-4k-arcana-review.html it seems to be the only thing around which does this at the moment.

One thing I have just noticed is when the battery gets to 99% it slows the charging rate down to around 300W, and exports the remainder of generation, perhaps this limits the parasitic reactions in the battery

It’s entirely possible yeah

quite possibly would be better having a DOD at 80% and max charge 80% but 40% is a lot to lose to protect the cells, besides there is no functionality on my inverter to do the max charge setting. how much more do you spend before it would just be easier to replace after 15 years (design lifetime of pylontech C series), you’d hope in 15 years time tech would either be a lot better, cheaper or both. I’ve had system over a year now and only lost 1% SoH

theres 3 separate entries for the battery, updates on the progress i made I too was disappointed at first but I did make good in the end with many tweaks from the manufacturer of the inverter, but it can never be zero, I went into it thinking that was how it would be, but totally understand now why it can’t be achieved, at least on a system like this with CT clamp

Have a read of my blog, I covered this exact subject when I got my battery system installed, hopefully it’ll help you too. My import on a day with no requirement to import is around 0.3kwh, I’ve explained the reasons why you will never get to zero in the piece.

Just checked this and yeah you’re right, a very bizarre specification but here it is and the corresponding thickness of XPS showing R value so assuming this is wet underfloor heating, it’ll need around 25mm XPS, which should be doable with 20mm PIR. can’t quite get over that requirement, as it’s all inside the thermal envelope 🤷‍♂️

Heat won't go down into the room below, the only issue you may find is that the UFH's responsiveness is slow on this floor, since some of it will soak into the slab, however that slow responsiveness will end with a smoother heat curve, rather than fluctuations. If this is an issue, then any amount of insulation will slow this soak.

I think the heating effect to the floor below would be marginal, if at all, especially since you have a void for services too. Can I ask also, what is the reason for block and beam on all floors, is it purely for underfloor heating? I've not seen this used on another build before other than ground floor. Depending how far along you are, how about swapping out for i-beam/web joists, chipboard/osb floor on top, insulation with underfloor heating pipes in it (the routed boards), and screed on top? You can play about with depths then also, as the void could be included within the joists.

Assuming you are going full on with airtightness, I can’t see why you would need insulation on first and second floors for any type of heating system? Having it would stop some of the heat rising from other floors? I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong here…

Do you know whether it’s a cavity property or solid wall? if it’s cavity there won’t be much load above on that outer leaf, certainly above my bungalow windows there are no lintels at the eaves on external leaf, my windows go right to the fascia though with nothing on top, I can see there is a small amount of masonry on this one, could just be render infill and maybe why it’s cracked

I used the celcon trench blocks years ago, heavy buggers they were, but yeah did the job just fine. how about thermalite, tongue and groove with handles? I would use them if I ever needed trench blocks again https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185483333075?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dk9yp24sta2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=SHn2lQD2QEu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

they end up looking like this… this is a standard 15mm TRV with a Tado smart radiator stat and 16mm MLCP pipe going into a 16mm eurocone. The only discernible difference is the compression nut is slight larger as you can see vs the standard ones for 15mm

I remember reading somewhere a long time ago that without the gap the foil face becomes conductive rather than reflective, how true that is im not sure, but it sounded reasonable.

Or alternatively do what I did, and stick an appropriate euro cone in a standard TRV and Lockshield, and have the 16mm MLCP straight into the radiator, no connectors needed. Let me know if you want any photos, and I can get some. As for laying MLCP in concrete, i can't see an issue, pretty much what they were designed for.

Mine came from https://www.roofgiant.com/ who claim to not be beaten on price, but they were already the cheapest. I think from memory you can sign up to a newsletter and get some money off too. Check prices once you've decided on your model code, as they effectively all come from Velux direct anyway.

How the window is hung is entirely up to you and how it will be used. Think about cleaning, top hung would have to be cleaned from outside where centre can be done either in or out the decision to go triple is down to how far you want to push thermal efficiency, are you trying to obtain any certification? I have both double and triple velux, the doubles I bought first when I didn’t know better, there is a huge difference in the temperature the glazed units reach in both winter and summer, so think carefully! Especially as the summers are getting hotter, 2G gets to around 70C but the 3G only around 38C in full south facing sun. also as prodave suggests, condensation is less likely/almost never on 3G

what’s the set back temperature set at and what temp does it get down to, to make the boiler fire? again I can only comment on Tado, but this system if it detects temperatures falling it will act before it gets below the set point to prevent the temperature from going below, perhaps your system does something similar? perhaps there’s something more fundamental at play here? Assuming it’s a modern enough boiler to have its own automatic bypass valve, you shouldn’t need one elsewhere in the system, but is there one somewhere that is perhaps bypassing at the wrong temperature? Are all your radiators functioning normally to provide some load for the boiler to heat, and not restricted too much by the lockshield?

If you control is smart and internet connected this could do the weather compensation for you. I have Tado and mine does just that. Get in touch with them about it, remember it’s a computer and more than likely to have bugs

I agree, try 55C and see if it helps

Sand them down, wipe over with a damp cloth and let dry, and then get yourself some Tesa 5225 Crack tape, and your choice of finishing filler, gyproc easifill is ideal, fill over the tape and feather in, then sand down, mist coat and paint https://www.brewers.co.uk/product/NT3721805J But yes absolutely nothing to worry about, purely cosmetic