MikeGrahamT21

If it’s trapped in between the PB and VCL insulate as it’ll raise the temperature and allow the moisture to evaporate again, remember moisture will go for the coldest spot. have you determined the cause of the moisture making it into the loft itself? apologies for the panic, I think most of us have been there! At least as it is you have opportunity to rectify the situation, just needs fast action. drawing 5l per day is something but won’t get on top of it, there will be hundreds of litres to come out.

What type airtight membrane did you use? Ideally should be an airtight vapour control membrane (AVCL), and if sealed correctly moisture shouldn’t have been able to reach the loft unless you have masonry elements which travel up there. see what others say but for me you really need to hit it hard and try getting as much moisture out as possible, quickly, you run the risk of getting mould growth as it is, which would lead to ripping plasterboards out and replacing. Hiring an industrial dehumidifier (or 2 depending how big an area) wouldn’t be a bad move

Yeah a bit left field from me 😂 more results coming soon!

Its the mesh tape you use in between the joints. Do you know what kind of tape was used? You should be able to see the tape where the cracks are if its in there, shine a light in it

Ring your insurer, its the only way to know for sure

I'd recommend you fully fill the depth you have available to you with insulation, and ensure you have approx 150mm air gap underneath the timbers. 100mm isn't a great deal which is all i had space for (and looks same for you)

I’m no professional plasterer but that looks like someone forgot the scrim when it originally got done

I vaguely remember setting mine at 2 lpm on each circuit bar the bypass (bathroom) and the boiler pump is set to 80% max flow. Been running for around 6 years so far with some big vertical bar radiators and a couple of standard single rads, no complaints from me. temperature won’t affect the manifold itself, only thing I can see ever wearing out is the flow rate meters which can always be replaced, and you’ll find they get a lot dirtier quickly with rads, mine are black inside and can’t read the rate anymore, really need to clean them at some point 😂 no other components in there you wouldn’t find in the rest of the heating system. ran for most of the 6 years at 55C, just moved to 45C this autumn

Your current method suggests you are essentially installing a VCL on both sides of the joists, a very bad idea. Is there a reason those joists are doubled up? Rooms looks relatively small in size for all that timber. It may be more feasible to remove the doubling up bits, unless there is a large span which isn't visible on the photo. I can see a sleeper wall, so in that area, definitely no reason for doubling up, unless you've some serious load to bear on the floor?

Plastering at this time of year is problematic for condensation, I was in the same position last year around this time but had MVHR running, along with a dehumidifier, the amount of water which was removed was bonkers, you’ll get there eventually but it’ll take time, from memory I think I was battling it for around 2 weeks with normal heating on, around 15m2 of plastering but I used bonding coat and plaster rather than dry lining which increased water content

I think all the smart heating controls have this, mine is called early start, it basically uses historic room data plus the outside temperature from weather forecast to learn how early it needs to turn the heating on so that when your chosen schedule starts the room is at temperature. The heat miser version seems a little more basic than the Tado I’ve got where you have to input the amount of time. glad you found the culprit, knowing what I’m like that would have been proper doing my head in!

This one isn’t very scientific, but may be something… So I went back on the heating graphs for that room (which i have since retrofitted with the backer rod completely now) to a day where the heating was on the day before (so the starting temp was the same) and the night temps were very similar to a night since I’ve done the works (which were consecutive days as it turned out), and got the following result: Before - Temp just before the heating comes on - 14.2C After - Temp just before the heating comes in on - 15.0C As an aside, this may seem generally a low temperature but this room is only on heat schedule til 4pm and has a lot of glazing, even though it is triple glazed (between 1.0 and 1.1Uw). Make of it what you will, all a bit finger in the air this part

Are you doing the works yourself or contracting it? For External Wall Insulation there is a test which installers do called the pull off test, they will use adhesive on a small piece of insulation, apply it, let it dry, and then pull it off and see which bit fails. It should be the insulation, but if it isn't then other remedial works may be needed before installation. In reality the insulation won't fall off, but you risk it delaminating from the substrate, which causes thermal degredation and bypass.

That stain on the ceiling won't have appeared overnight. Assuming this is a rented property you own?

Option Number 2 needs a VCL behind the plasterboard to remove condensation risk

looking at the amount of mould present thats been leaking for a while

OP said it was an American fridge so could use a lot more than a normal FF

Fridge is my vote, doing a daily defrost cycle (assuming it’s frost free?) blurb from web: Most models will defrost for approximately 25 to 45 minutes, usually once or twice a day. You may hear water dripping or sizzling as it hits the heater.

Taken a few readings using an IR non contact thermometer, not much wind today. the fixed frame showed an improvement of between 0.3 and 0.5C between the ‘improved’ and original frame. the opener showed between 0.0 and 0.1C improvement. on a day which is quite still I’d say this makes sense, so the opener has drainage holes but they drain into the main window profile which then drains externally, so any air movement would have a longer more complex route. can’t comment on sound insulation as both of the treated areas are at the back of the property away from road side. I have ordered another 50m of rod to complete the other windows, which all in moneywise will be around £20. will try and remember to take some acoustic readings on my phone before and after when I do a window at the front facing the road, and also take additional reading’s temperature wise when we are forecast some strong wind which I think is due this week.

ahh i was wondering the other night what the more expensive window manufacturers used if anything, not sure i'd like to swap a glazed unit out though if they're glued in

Arrived today so thought may as well get it in place on my afternoon off. Did one fixed pane on one window and one opener on another, fiddly as expected but not overly so, pushed the rod in to roughly where the centre pane of glass sits in the 3G unit beading’s off absolutely hate the duck tape they use when it’s perished, tidied it up best I could, you can see the gap clearly and I could feel the breeze coming through at this point. just used a filling knife to gently push it in all around the perimeter. I will report back with some results and before I buy any more rod

You'll need to be both G98 and G100 compliant to submit an Export Limitation Scheme Form. https://connections.nationalgrid.co.uk/export-limitation/ So if you haven't got an Export Power Manager which is G100, you may well need to get one. Having not done this myself, I can only go on what the information provided says. Have you spoken to them directly? Its possible they've misunderstood something.

Gypsum in any form is water soluble, I really think this is more about moving builds on quicker than anything to do with them being suited for bathrooms. By the time the moisture has reached the board you’d be in trouble anyway. just come across this, lime plaster on fibre reinforced cement board, for exterior use:https://biolime.com/bl_system/cement-board-exterior/?bl_system_choice=7062&square_feet= Where abouts is the wall located in terms of moisture? Near a water source? You thinking skim and paint? hmm intriguing…apparently you can skim, seal with SBR bond, sand it slightly for a key and then paint on top of that? I have zero idea if that works but if the paint adheres as people say it will, the layers are in the right place to do the job.

Keep seeing this stuff popping up to use in conjunction with PIR, anyone come across it? http://www.gapogroup.com

I’ve never thought of it this way, but I wonder if MR boards aren’t anything to do with using in a bathroom and more to do with being able to install them in a wet building to save time. The fact they need bonding before plaster would agree with that. im thinking along the lines of like chipboard flooring with the peel back coating, another product so you can crack on and ignore other factors. I’m more than likely wrong, but just made me wonder when I read the BG blurb