Chanmenie

Yeah I’d only use them for what they are designed for. Certainly not in ICF walls

I used 35mm metal back boxes, my internal layer of EPS is only 55mm ( Beco Wallform ) so I screwed the back boxes to the concrete

Couple of trolly jacks, just don't damage the car then there’s sod all they can do

I used Pro Clima, much better value for money compared to Illbruck, I was advised to use 20mm tape even though my windows are 100mm deep. it’s fine to use narrower tape then use airtight foam on the inside. https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/contega-fiden-exo I attached the tape to the window, then fitted it, as I have Alu Clad the tape goes 10mm back from the face so would be a bugger to fit after putting the windows frames in

Just drag it out of the way.

@Duncan62 here’s some blurb on the stuff I had http://www.easternconcrete.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/GDA-443_EcFlow-Nov2017.pdf

I had self compacting fibre reinforced concrete in my slab. The advantages were. I didn’t need rebar which saved quite a bit, it didn’t need floating which saved time, there’s no laitance which saves time and money, and not sure if it’s true but was told it would transmit the heat from the UFH pipes better as the fine aggregate make it more like a screed

Got my quote Veismann Vitocal 151-a which has an integrated indoor unit with 190l tank and all the other required gubbins including a 16l buffer, fully installed apart from the concrete pad. After the BUS of £7500 grant I’ll have just £1800 to pay so chuffed with that. clearly not all MCS cert plumbers are crooks

I didn’t, expanding tape between frame and reveal, airtight foam inside then brush on liquid membrane as a final air tight barrier

Cheaper than that from City Plumbing plus the indoor unit includes the tank and all other bits like the buffer, expansion vessels etc

I’m awaiting a quote for a 4KW Veismann Vitocal 151-a so be interesting to see how that comes out.

I cleared all the topsoil on my plot where founds and slab were going, it’s much easier to clear with the digger before you start the trenches and otherwise it’s likely to get washed into the trench if it rains. If doing trench fill dont forget to make provision for drains and water main as trying to get them trough the concrete later is a right pain. I know someone who completely forget the water main until after he’d put walls up.

Is the concrete slab already poured ?

Have you applied for CIL exemption ? You must do that before you start any building

Ours were similar size and slightly heavier at 136kg each, I would not want to lift by hand, so hired a crane. Trying to manoeuvre trusses that size by hand could be dangerous. The carpenters fitted all 24 attic trusses and 12 raised cord trusses in one day. We did the raised cord trusses by hand but they only spanned 5m. But they were lifted onto the wall plate and lent against the scaffold with the crane.

Im fitting a low profile shower tray flush with floor, the Nuance shower panels will be sealed onto the shower tray. The downstairs bathroom is concrete floor and block walls so no movement, the upstairs bathroom will also have a shower tray and is studwork but it’s screwed to the floor so I don’t expect movement.

Does seem a little excessive and expensive, nice to work from though

I believe the most important aspect is who's applying it, the best render in the world aint worth s**t if it's applied incorrectly. Find a local firm and see what they recommend, they should get a specific spec from suppliers for your particular job. and by the way its K-Rend, who make different types of render eg Silicone, acrylic, monocouche etc

Can I ask opinions and experiences please, i'm trying to decide on how best to construct shower areas. Both showers will have Nuance shower panels, so what do I do underneath. Downstairs bathroom is blockwork walls and concrete floor, upstairs is studwork and 22mm Caberdek P5. Option 1, Tile backer boards or aquapanel etc Option 2, green plasterboard and liquid tanking solution. (what liquid would you recommend) Thanks in advance

What’s your opinion of the SPC flooring ?

I bought mine from here https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/

Good post John 👍

Yeah as Mike said it will work fine, probably better than in a 50mm screed. The house I currently live in has UFH pipes in at least 100mm concrete and is fine, the whole estate of approx 500 houses is the same. Norfolk Homes have been doing it this way for years. Ive done my new build the same. Anyone who tells you it won’t work doesn’t know what they are talking about.

Sounds ridiculous to me, I’ve had 2 quotes £3600 and £4800 first and second fix labour only. but it does not include chasing in as I’m happy to do that

I bought my Ali clad timber windows from Nordica, they are local to me so I was able to look at some, which to me was quite important