Frogeye

19 'working' days ?

Switchbot? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B7NXV4R/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=paulhibbertco-21&creative=6738&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07B7NXV4R&linkId=23199595b597e38ad5b10312c296c07c I saw this on Paul' Hibbert's YouTube channel recently and am tempted to try this myself to control my ashp switch via HomeAssistant. You will also probably need the hub that links this switch to the mobile app (another £30 or so)

Hi, I had quite a few bits from a company called Drainage365(.co.uk?). Run by a really helpful guy (Simon?). He been in the industry for a long time and recently set this company up - he might be worth a call and could probably point you in the right direction if he can't help you himself.

What about just using a powerline adapter at the gate end and just send the data 'through the mains'? https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-PA4010KIT-V1-20-Powerline-Configuration-UK/dp/B01BECPIMC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1515256721&sr=8-3&keywords=powerline+adapter

Thanks everyone for the range of inputs. I'm going to have a try with a length of stainless chain which I'm thinking of attaching to some kind of grill topped gulley, which I can then disguise with suitable pebbles. I'm considering doing away with any sort of hopper/gulley on the guttering and just putting a blanking plate over then end then drilling a suitable size hole in the gutter just large enough to poke the top link of chain through. I'll post some photos of my next attempt in a week or so!

Hi, I've just stopped partway through putting guttering on the newly fitted porch having remembered once seeing someone with a 'rain chain' on a house (where it added a bit of architectural appeal). Something like this: Whilst my house is nothing like that above, I didn't want to fix a downpipe off my nice oak pillars, but I'm not that happy with how returning the gutter back to the house wall and then into a downpipe looks either (hence downing tools and carry out a bit of surfing). There seem to be an array of novelty chains for this purpose - however I'm picturing a plain 6 or 8mm thick stainless or black chain coming down from the front corner, but am wondering how this would terminate in to soil pipe. Has anyone got any experience of this? I'm can't think that there will ever be a lot of water in any case. Current setup...

I used some left over MVHR ducting to get to my shed, I have shoved some armoured cable in already in case it collapses with light traffic, but also slightly worry about rodents using it as an expressway!

Well done. It looks spectacular - you must be really chuffed. Was this your first project? Looking forward to some pictures of your stove!

@Stones I ran the UFC (?) at temperatures down to about 16C (before I realised that I hadn't limited the target setting - now set to 18C). Downstairs I have mostly stone tiled flooring and I would say that I could notice the cooling effect within a couple of hours. In carpeted areas and upstairs it was less obvious but (i think) noticeable this morning - although I turned the 'cooling' off last night and just left the floor in circulation only mode. This morning the apparent UFH flow temperature is 21C and I switched the ASHP cooling back on with it now set to 18C @Trw144 I have a Panasonic Aquarea ASHP and it was remarkable easy to activate the cooling function (normally disabled in the UK because of the RHI scheme). Initially I was a bit scared off by the thought of wiring/ valves etc. but armed with a few installer settings it was all done through the control panel. Check to see what the target temperature is set too though as my buffer tank was trying to get to 10C. I've got a Wunda UFH and have been running with all loops open since installation (why did I buy all those actuators and wireless room stats!!). I just set my target temperature to 30C just to get the pumps running and with the heating switched off at the ASHP this just acts to circulate the water throughout the house and buffer tank sharing the heat burden around the house(which is what I have been doing for the last few weeks)

I've been a bit too warm over the last few nights with house temp around 24/25 C. However today I have managed to get the UFH into cooling mode and this has had a real impact in a pretty short space of time (hoping my stone floor doesn't suffer as a result). I've also switched the air duct at the top of my vaulted hallway to extract rather than supply and am optimistic that will help drag out some trapped heat.

...... if only my building control inspector (independent) was so obliging!

Its max output is 7kW. I think I'd need about half an air-brick to meet this requirement. As it stands my stove is being supplied by a 110mm soil pipe which pokes in to an underfloor void fed by about 38 air bricks.

I am amidst a bit of a problem trying to get my stove signed off because of its direct air feed. I've got the Jotul F373 and this has an air feed through the pedestal from the void under my beam and block floor. I'm pretty sure that I've seen a picture in the building reg book depicting an air intake from a subfloor void - however my installers are telling me that this doesn't apply to direct air feed stoves and that I will have to have a continuous pipe under the sub floor to the outside wall. I'm contesting this but being told that this is coming from the HETAS regs. I don't know if anyone else has run into this issue? I'm hoping to find a more understanding installer who would be happy to sign it off.

Was your price for a full flight or like the one pictured?

Be sure to have tight folds against the edges so that the polythene doesn't act as a mould and end up putting a curve in the edges and making them a bit too thin -(your polythene looks quite a thick gauge - is this also a dpm?)