Makeitstop

If I am looking to extend off a house, which is built off piles and rc ground beams, is there a standard practise to dowel a new section of ringbeam to the old one? If I have had an SE calculate for beams and provide bending schedule, should there be accompanying advice on anchoring old rc beam to new one?

I think to some extent that it's a matter of opinion on laying beneath cabinets etc, but I'd ask on the above site and see what replies the fitters offer up.

Dry back (glue down) is better. Look at "the flooring forum" and have a read up on it and you'll see it's pretty much a universally preferred choice.

Reynaers too I'd imagine.

@Craig will no doubt provide some good advice on it.

You are looking to split a 4.2 metre wide door into three panels for a bifold? They are going to be seriously large doors on an individual basis. As sliders, less of an issue, but as folding set, they sound a bit unwieldy.

Got this sorted now.

Thanks for the response, but this is a flatroof. Still, I'm confused by 300mm for an upstand, but I'd love to hear opinions of others.

Hi all, Thought I'd ask on this thread rather than starting fresh...... Does anyone know if a warm roof buildup requires a 300mm upstand over a more standard 150mm? On discussing a job with velux, it appears they suggest 300mm for warm roof, which sounds large. Anyone have any knowledge on this?

Hi Nick, Thanks for this, I'll print this out and will pass onto whoever gets onto it. It'll be interesting to see what their response is.

Hi guys, Thanks for the input and advice, I'll pass this on and she can ask anyone she gets out to look into this. This kind of stuff is not my area and I really don't know what I'm looking at. I'm sure if I studied it I could check stuff, but in truth, it's best left to those that already know and have experience. I am fairly clueless on this. What I do know is that she has had some kind of clear...ish crystalized crap stuck in filters of taps, which one guy says comes from some internal part that breaks down. What that means, again, I don't know, but it appears to be an issue on these cylinders. As has been said, it's not clever on something that is six years old. It's also irritating as hell because this is not a long term house and she would rather not be spending on replacing bits of kit like this, but it is how it is. I'll pass on all info here and we'll see what fitters that look into it say. One guy suggested removing the boiler and cylinder and replacing with a combi. I did'nt think that was a great idea. It might be good for the fitter, but maybe not so for my daughter, when she has a perfectly functioning boiler of the same age.

Thanks for the replies. She's getting a few quotes to replace it. One at £1800 to fit a ThermaQ evocyl 150 dual zone, which on the face of it looks a little pricey. Well see how it goes, but youd expect more than 6 years from such a product surely.

Not much to add either but i would be more looking at the 7th image, where the crack runs horizontally and appears to widen to one end.

Nope, not hard water area. And yes, it's just hot outlets, going down to a trickle and virtually nothing at all in some. Its garbage. Cold is fine with excellent pressure.

Hi all, Anyone got any idea on a suitable (or smart choice) replacement for one of these heaps of utter shite? My daughter lives in a new build (Redrow, 6 years old) and has a Range Tribune HE TI150PT4. It appears to have caused a loss of pressure almost everywhere through the house. The main bath tap is barely a trickle, and some other faucets are on a stop too, with extremely limited flow throughout. It would seem from searching online that this is a known problem with this cylinder, and, that some internal part can disintegrate, causing a blocking of the system. She has spoken to kingspan on it and they have asked for every bit of service record, which she doesn't seem able to get her hands on, even though it has been serviced. She has no idea what to do to get kingspan to engage now, and so is considering a replacement. Anyone have any ideas on a suitable swapout for this, to a good, reliable and solid performing cylinder? Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks all.

In my opinion, there isnt any reason why any quality joinery would be known to small time timber merchants only. Larger suppliers (like James Latham for example) that provide materials to all sorts of businesses will likely equally know people you could contact for such jobs. A morning or afternoon making some calls will soon enough yield results as to where to try, and from there, a chat and visit will probably give you some insight as to who you feel happy to work with for the job in question. As a note on the cost, if I was quoted £10k for a door as you describe, I'd not be working with that joinery. No sir.

Yes, what Connor said. Companys such as Rainclear (who make copings / rainwater goods etc) would probably be able to make up something to an exact fit. Google it, there are loads of places that could do that. That would look properly neat.

Meths is unlikely to harm it, as it'll not soften a lacquer if any has been applied, and will only slightly lift an oil finish. Perhaps try a little 000 / 0000 grade steel wool with meths, and rub over area gently, until marks are removed. Make sure to try to work "with" the grain, although with such fine grade steel wool, it's not likely to scratch oak to any degree. If that does the trick, buff dry with clean cloth and then apply a decent flooring oil or danish oil to restore colour. Give it a go on an inconspicuous spot and see how you get on.

I only tried this one door, but was shocked at how heavy it felt compared to a high quality fully aluminium lift and slide 2g door. It was night and day difference. For me, I would rule 3g out in that type of product if it were typical of that size of door, and, if it were one I needed to use "regularly". Would get right on my nerves. Looked lovely, but I generally dont just want to look at my doors.

You'd think the suppliers would give consideration to that and make an adjustment to the product they decide to display in that case. Hardly a great advert for them to have something on show that doesn't function nearly as well as a potential buyer might expect. These are not low priced products after all, and consumers should be able to gauge how the display product might work for them in their own spaces.

I'd try a simple sealer. They deffo bring colour down a bit, but whether enough I dont know. On the colouring options, again, dont know sorry. @Nod may have an opinion on this..

I must admit, the idea is lovely, but the diff in moving a 3g slider to 2g is considerable. If it was for a slider I was looking to use frequently, the 3g feel would do my nut in. I am basing that on the experience of an internorm lift and slide at a trade show. It was approx 3.5 metre wide and was not at all funny to move.

Grouts can be a bitch to colour match I've found. Not straightforward. What are the tiles?......stone.. porcelain? If not anything absorbent, perhaps some kind of sealer could be applied, as they often bring colour down a few shades.. Obviously, if you try it, ensure it's on an edge away from clear sight.

Yes, any solid timber can be sanded and refinished. It's a matter of how thick it is, what wood it is, and what you're trying to achieve in terms of finished colour. For example, you are not going to make an American walnut floor look like oak, no matter what you do to it. If you want to cut the surface finish off, then it could be taken to a joinery, where they may either be able to run it through a planer / thicknesser, or better still, run it through a drum sander. The sanding option may be tricky in that it may mean wrecking the belt fitted to their machine, so be prepared to have to pay for that. However, in trying to get any new boards to marry up, it will depend on whether where the flooring meets (old to new) that it's a clear threashold, and a totally separate space. This is because not only will you not get an "exact" match to colouring, but in sanding planing the surface of your old boards, you may have a fractional difference in final thickness.

If I'm seeing it correctly, what you're saying is that theres an additional £1k put onto every job price. This is for the potential ratio of acceptance v refusal of quotes being 3:1.