Lesgrandepotato

Don’t know how legit they are, but they are massively more efficient than the open fire for heat. We are using about 1/4 the amount of logs in a room twice the size in the evening. Normally only 4-6 logs a night now.

I think part of the problem is if you are used to an open fire is desire to keep stoking and feeding it. We have our heating profile for the upstairs lounge without and evening boost as we use the stove. That said we have a smallish stove (6kw) in a decent room. 36sqm. We can run that without boiling ourselves for an hour or two with ease. Why? We like the flames and we live in a wood..

The goal has to be that the automation is not intrusive and the mother in law can operate the lights whilst pissed.

The design approach we’ve taken is to wire the house as normal ( excepting making sure we have neutrals available everywhere) we then have mk logic mini grid switches. At each key location there is an extra switch to be added on the faceplate as a retractive 1/2/3 click or hold switch. This will give the scenes applicable to the area. We also have door sensors, some coloured Phillips hue and and 8 way heating system to control. Plus the control for the thermal store and eventual hydro plant. I figured a hub was warranted... we have 17 lighting circuits in the open plan space and they need to operate in gourds to make it make sense and set the room to its best. In terms of wiring in, it’s just a tiny extra module in a 47mm back box.

I’ve a similar problem, I’m solving it with a Fibaro home centre 2 setup. More on this on the next few weeks as I start getting it set up.

Does topps have them in their network? Maybe try a store see if they can order the remainder of the stock. 600 * 600 will you reflect that in the unit design? To get it all matched up?

Bang on 600mm in my experience. The door will be about 597mm?

Cheap and easy!

They are just stud boxes plastered out with a 30mm led downlight. Then painted bright colours.

Our bathroom...

UFH everywhere! It’s glorious

Care to add to that comment? Not sure I follow? So as I see it, it is viable. It’s not ideal and should not have been put in this way. I’ll speak to the sparks about rectifying it to get is as it should be.

Lights on sockets circuit, with a switched fuse to take it down for the lighting circuit. We have 2 RCD’s and twelve individual loads in two lots of 6.

it seems that post re-wire, that at least part of the downstairs wiring is on the sockets circuits. There is an additional switch in the understairs cupboard that controls the lighting loads. This all leads back to a new board. Is is it acceptable to mix sockets and lighting? Is there any good reason for doing so? I suspect it’s down to making a temporary circuit to get a room powered up.

Give me a few mins. We’ve got no curtains and I’m knackered.

We needed a couple of extra 3 seater sofas for the open plan space downstairs. Popped into the Kendal furniture warehouse. Picked a 3 seater habitat sofa and a nice (red) leather 3 seater. Perfect condition. Delivered to my house from Kendal for £225 all in and within the hour! Support these people. The furniture is a by product of getting people back into work. I tried really hard to give them more money!

From another point of view, looks like this one might be gone too far to turn around. Better to stress on what can be changed than what cannot. Better use of your lads time to review the going forward stuff instead of the back?

They come with the drain for vinyl, tiles drain is an extra 65 quid or so.

In an attempt to avoid the utility room work I’ve been out for dinner and got plastered. I’m now enjoying the tree and the wood burner and a nice cup of coffee...

The life of a self builder, ups and downs. Claire has been to Ikea and picked up... the utility room sink... so that’s tonights job then!

Go live Day! Is it finished? No! Is it close enough? Yes! Have we rented the other house out to someone else months ago with a date that was miles after completion... yes!

Cheers chaps - I think! because we are a renovation and no ventilation was present before, then we are not obliged to fit. (I do have a power in the wall and isolators for this purpose in place through!)

So we are close to getting BR sign off, just wondering if we have a hurdle or not, the Kitchen (which is part of a large open plan space) circa 80sqm and in places double height does not currently have an extractor and I don't really want one... We could fit the cover plates for the extractor inside and out and hope no one asks for a test... claim the extractor is on order and plead clemency. Or we could see if we actually need one? Does a kitchen have to have an extractor? even if its not enclosed?

Not managed to get it free... so 670 dispatched for 140sqm of the stuff. That’s a lovely pre Xmas job!

Its always cheaper to fix things at the plan stage, even if it takes time. If its what you want get the plans amended.. :-)