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Barney12

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Everything posted by Barney12

  1. Barney12
    Does a breather membrane actually prevent full weather penetration? Or is it type dependant?
  2. Barney12
    Yes the Vastern version is as you describe: https://www.vastern.co.uk/cladding/splayed-cladding/
  3. Barney12
    This is a solution I keep heading towards. However the units I've seen online are not what you might describe as "aesthetically pleasing".? They look rather like large night storage heaters from the 70's. At the moment I've just allowed for a 4 wire electric rad circuit.
  4. Barney12
    I've been researching cladding options and I quite like the idea of splayed cladding detailing. I.e. All the companies that supply it mention that you need "weather protection" due to the open nature of the boards (which is pretty obvious). But, nowhere can I find what the recommended means of weather protection is? It would be going onto a timber frame. Is the answer as simple as; batten, fully weatherproof board, batten, splayed timber? In other words you clad it twice!
  5. Barney12
    Those 'micro blisters' are almost certainly a reaction to the surface underneath. Its a common paint problem. They become more evident in damp/moist conditions simply because the emulsion absorbs some moisture and expands. Without knowing what was on the wall before its hard to comment further but it's could be something as simple as a build up of soap scum which is common in bathrooms. Were the walls scrubbed with sugar soap before painting over the previously painted area? As as for the solution. There is unfortunately only one: Key it back and add a primer sealer. I would recommend Zinser Bullseye http://www.zinsseruk.com/product/bulls-eye-1-2-3/ Then paint it again. Any shortcut from the above will end in tears. Edit: Sorry I should have said at the beginning that the above is written on the assumption your builder had painted onto an existing surface.
  6. Barney12
    Out of interest what is your cladding timber?
  7. Barney12
    A few of the install so far:
  8. Barney12
    I'm REALLY struggling this morning. Spent all day yesterday laying the OSB deck, trims, hidden gutter etc on my 18m2 dormer roof. It was roasting hot! Got up super early to crack on with fibreglassing today. Stepped outside and it started pissing it down! Its continued for the last 2 hours. Was it forecast? Nope! It was supposed to be dry, How I love the moorland weather, its as unpredictable as my wife's moods! So now my OSB deck is soaking wet. Fibreglass and water do not mix. I've just come inside for a cup of coffee and a 4 finger KitKat! Anything unhealthy with a strong coffee normally does the trick but not today!!
  9. Barney12
    Thanks guys. Outside it is!
  10. Barney12
    Yes MBC have arelady battened.
  11. Barney12
    Hi All i can't seem to find the accepted answer to this and a Google image search shows both! Soakers "under" or "over" the vertical battens for the cladding? Sorry for all the woofing questions
  12. Barney12
    Yes. 25x50 vertical batten on each rafter and then 25x50 horizontal spaced for the slates. Edit.It would provide rigidity as you would be tieing the horizontals to the new middle vertical. Effectively creating a trellis.
  13. Barney12
    Sorry not sure what you mean by that? He was on about sliding a full 25x50 batten between the 600 centres and screwing it on.
  14. Barney12
    He did say that they could "slide" another batten down between the 600 centres and screw it on. Apparently that reduces the bounce. Would that impact the ventilation or membrane at all though?
  15. Barney12
    Sorry its 5mm slates! I keep saying tiles!!
  16. Barney12
    I'm still undecided as to whether I'm going to tackle the tiling of the roof so had a guy out last week to take a look. As mentioned in another thread recently the standard method of roof assessment seems to be; "stand with your legs slightly apart, lean back, look up and then most importantly suck through your teeth" With this guy his next comment was almost instant "Oh, 600 centres, that's not good, I always prefer 400". To which I of course in an interested tone said "why is that then". His reply "Far too much nail bounce on 600 centres. Makes the job difficult and slower on a nailed roof". Is is he right? I understand his point as there is a little flex in the battens towards the centres and copper nails don't like being hit too hard! I haven't had his quote yet.
  17. Barney12
    The link brings up this error for me: You do not have the necessary permission for the specified Page to perform the requested action.
  18. Barney12
    What @Nickfromwales has written is right. Your principal aim should be to keep the "opportunist scroat" (technical term!) out of your house. CCTV is very unlikely to deter such people. It will be "hoody up and in" and then just a remit of mucking about or damaging things. Spend the money on some OSB or ply and get those openings screwed shut from the inside. I guarantee you'll end up using the wood again for something, even if it's just standing the mixer on to keep it out of the mud!
  19. Barney12
    Ah! Well there lays your answer! It seems "extortionate rates" for fitting is the only way they know. I guess they work on the basis of "well if you'll pay our prices for the tiles then you wont mind the fitting rates" I do accept though that they have some beautiful products!
  20. Barney12
    The gutter sections:
  21. Barney12
    Pre-made the gutter sections today in the workshop. The bottom section to make the 'male' is just a former that will be removed (hence the foil and the duct tape).
  22. Barney12
    I've never seen such shiny scaffold!
  23. Barney12
    Sailed? Mines bloody lost at sea!
  24. Barney12
    Now I really hate painting but I'm not sure I would go quite that far to get out of it Thank heavens he was wearing his tin hat. Could have been really nasty without it. Plastering looks 'bang tidy'.
  25. Barney12
    Agreed. There is nothing better than a 'male' to 'female' union as long as you've got a bit of flex
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